Proven Cooling Recommendations Please...

blueyndr · #1 (**permalink**) 05-06-2012, 12:29 PM

I've got a 2008 Terxy STD Bore and was just wondering of some ideas to keep her running a little cooler. Thought about these:
1. Aftermarket radiator--live in the south and mud ride so will still get clogged unless I do a relocate
2. Aftermarket impeller--heard these things really don't make a big difference???
3. Aftermarket oil cooler--expensive and would still get clogged with mud
4. Engine ice--mixed reviews on effectiveness over currently used Yamacool
5. manual fan switch to continually run fan
6. Installation of water temp, oil temp and oil pressure guages

Please reply only if you have proven experience with the above or any recommendations (i.e, aftermarket impeller dropped my engine temps by 20 degrees, etc)
Also, see alot of comment on here about bleeding the cooling system utilizing the thermostat housing bolt (loosening to bleed out air) but I have the service manual and it does not mention this at all? Only states to remove the radiator cap and run till no more bubbles appear in the coolant? Is this just an inside trick that works better than the manual process?

Thanks in advance for all info!

**klx450r** · #2 (**permalink**) 05-06-2012, 02:10 PM

i run the dasa impeller with the PWR dual pass radiator and it runs a lot cooler especially durning the summer i run it in 100+ degree weather and don't have any overheating issues. the bleeder screw is located on the tube leading to the thermostat housing and you will need to bleed it from there or you will get air trapped in the top of the engine. all the mods listed do work well especially when done together.

Freeezen · #3 (**permalink**) 05-06-2012, 02:27 PM

I agree that the DASA impeller works. It really cut down the time my fan was on. I later added a temp gauge because it really is important to monitor the temps on these motors. One thing you didn't list was modifying the stock radiator into a triple pass to keep the fluid in the radiator longer. I've heard that just about any radiator shop should be able to do it for anywhere between $130 - $150. Good luck.

teryxcpl10 · #4 (**permalink**) 05-06-2012, 04:31 PM

I had an 08 with lots of overheating problems. I bought a DASA water pump impeller and changed coolant to ICE END of PROBLEMS. Oh. I also got some coil cleaning acid from my local commercial air-conditioning supply house removed my radiator and laid it flat and hosed it down with it. Waited 4 mins and hosed it off. It looked brand new after that. BTW. I live in the south also. All we do is ride in the mud.

**paul ashworth** · #5 (**permalink**) 05-06-2012, 04:35 PM

They are all good mods. Tex with a 08 you will need a rad. Or by bass it. Old boy on hear had some custom rads for 425. I seen he had them on e-bay for 237 shipped. I got one it works great.And on impeller I would get one that has a spacer with it . Because without one the impeller rubs cover,not bed but the rub. I bought a utv inc fan override plug and play, I hate that they suck because of there forum flooding with advertisement. And any temp gauge will work you dont' need to spend big money one them. The evens coolant is the best but will not mix with water in a jam.

blueyndr · #6 (**permalink**) 05-06-2012, 04:55 PM

thanks for all the info!

Rufus · #7 (**permalink**) 05-06-2012, 09:03 PM

Has anyone used a cooling system vacuum ? I saw one in a tool catalog you put a vacuum on system then add the coolant. just wondered if it works?

**sconym** · #8 (**permalink**) 05-07-2012, 10:05 AM

i have an '08 with a DASA 840 that runs very cool. Here is what works for me:

- DASA impeller is a must!!!! IN any car honestly.

- I had my stock radiator modified into a triple pass radiator. This is a common mod that any local radiator shop can do. Keep the coolant in the radiator for a longer period of time.

- I have both a water and an oil temp gauge installed. I like to be informed.

- I have an aftermarket oil cooler setup installed that i pieced together myself. It has fan cooled and also has an external full size oil filter (FRAM PH8A or equivalent) 4 quarts capacity now

- I have both my radiator and oil cooler fan mounted on a switch with relays installed. The fans will still come on when the car gets hot enough automatically, or i can turn them on at my leisure.

- I tried the Engine Ice route. It will not make your car run any cooler. This additive raises the boiling temperature of your coolant. Instead of boiling at the normal 212 degrees like water does, this will increase the boiling temp to 325 i think. Great insurance if you ever start to overheat. Plus, you cannot mix it with water. You need to run it straight or you lower its effectiveness back down to expensive water.

- I am not a fan of oil pressure gauges in these cars. In my opinion, by the time the oil pressure is low enough to show any indication, it is most likely too late. I like to monitor the temp as opposed to pressure.

My car gets run pretty hard in some pretty hot environments and runs very cool! Even 100 degree weather running the dunes it tops out at about 200 on the water and 240 on oil....

just my experiences

**Desertdog615** · #9 (**permalink**) 05-07-2012, 02:51 PM

You can also upgrade ALL your coolant hoses & hard lines to 2010. need to include water pump & thermostat covers. These are 1" dia in lieu of 3/4" that is on the earlier models. Bigger lines= more flow. Muzzy has a kit or you can buy the parts without their radiator.

fordtrcuknut · #10 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 05:23 AM

just finished mine, running a bbk with weller impeller,home brew oil cooler with fan and manual fan switch going to radiator fan and oil cooler fan.
also I tried an old racer trick and cut the center out of my thermostat,dont actually know how much this is helping but it for sure makes it easier to get air out of the cooling system and at the very least it will take the machine longer to get hot.
with my mechanical temperature gauge with fans on my machine will go down to about 105 degrees while trail riding lol.
with the fans off as long as im not just flat sitting still it will run 165 to 170

FUELATV · #11 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueyndr

I've got a 2008 Terxy STD Bore and was just wondering of some ideas to keep her running a little cooler. Thought about these:
1. Aftermarket radiator--live in the south and mud ride so will still get clogged unless I do a relocate Aftermarket or Bypass your stock unit and relocate to keep out of the mud, you are on the right track.
2. Aftermarket impeller--heard these things really don't make a big difference??? They make a HUGE difference, well worth the money
3. Aftermarket oil cooler--expensive and would still get clogged with mud Not expensive when you look at what it does, if youu are riding in mud then you will want to mount it higher. They will cut temps 20*-30* not to mention some of them will double your oil capacity
4. Engine ice--mixed reviews on effectiveness over currently used Yamacool You will always have mixed reviews on fluid types, not much I can really say other than that
5. manual fan switch to continually run fan The biggest thing you missed here is running the fan on a seperate power supply than the stock system, either include a manual switch or add a temp switch in-line
6. Installation of water temp, oil temp and oil pressure guages Always a great idea to know what your Teryx is doing at all times!

Please reply only if you have proven experience with the above or any recommendations (i.e, aftermarket impeller dropped my engine temps by 20 degrees, etc)
I have run std bore motors and big bore motors and with oil cooler, radiator mod and impeller they run at 185-195. They would easily climb to 230 before the mods
Also, see alot of comment on here about bleeding the cooling system utilizing the thermostat housing bolt (loosening to bleed out air) but I have the service manual and it does not mention this at all? Only states to remove the radiator cap and run till no more bubbles appear in the coolant? Is this just an inside trick that works better than the manual process? The bleeder next to the termostat is the best process even if you do it the way the manual says also. The bleeder is higher than the radiator cap and even if you lift the front end up the design of the lines still allows them to collect air

Thanks in advance for all info!

blueyndr · #12 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 02:12 PM

thanks Fuel!

SouthCo · #13 (**permalink**) 05-13-2012, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Desertdog615

You can also upgrade ALL your coolant hoses & hard lines to 2010. need to include water pump & thermostat covers. These are 1" dia in lieu of 3/4" that is on the earlier models. Bigger lines= more flow. Muzzy has a kit or you can buy the parts without their radiator.

Yeah, pre-2010 need at least a impeller upgrade.