Stock sport shock tuning - Kawasaki Teryx Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Stock sport shock tuning

Haven't taken my Teryx to the dunes yet but was wondering if I should soften the preload and reb/comp up some? Haven't touched the shocks yet so settings are stock
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 12:35 PM
 
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??????

just wait till you try it out,take it out and thrash around for awhile then just change one thing at a time till you get it like you like it, tire pressure will also affect the ride so experiment with different combos, or not!
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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that's what I figured but just trying to get a starting point where most people are roughly at.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 12:59 PM
 
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shocking

i have the walker evans shocks so cant really give a starting point. maybe everything in the middle, but dont get too much rear preload in there or it will kick like a mule.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 04:47 PM
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I had to crank 6 full rounds of spring preload in rear due to heavy bottoming out. I do drive hard though. I also have an ice chest in the bed that holds about 15 drinks plus ice.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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gonna try that, was bottoming out a few times this weekend

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 01:31 AM
 
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I had to crank 6 full rounds of spring preload in rear due to heavy bottoming out. I do drive hard though. I also have an ice chest in the bed that holds about 15 drinks plus ice.
How did the bottoming out go after you adjusted the preload?
Did it stop the bottoming out?
Did it make the rear end buck alot after that?
Mine was bottoming out this weekend and Scott suggested I adjust the preload by a 1/2 inch but I wont be able to try it out till next month.

2010 Sport, XMF 4 seat cage with roof and XMF doors, XMF +5 LT, Beard seats and 5 points, Skats in back Dune Stars up front, Muzzy pros, MSD and VForce stage 3, 40" Rigid bar, 10" Rigid amber on an LIT bumper, BRP pod and gauges and Custom blanket in the back for my girls, courtesy of Gramma

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 04:53 AM
 
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How do you adjust the sport shocks? I see the rings you can turn for the springs but how to you adjust the preload, etc?
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 05:06 AM
 
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How do you adjust the sport shocks? I see the rings you can turn for the springs but how to you adjust the preload, etc?
The rings for the springs are the preload adjustments, they will adjust the ride height and some stiffness. There are 2 1/4 inch circles that have a notch for a flat head screw driver on the top and bottom of t6he shock colars, those are used to adjust the compression and rebound. I think the top is used for compression and bottom for rebound

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 05:16 AM
 
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Cool, I mainly just ride rough trails and logging roads, I haven't touched them yet...anyone have any recommendations, will probably just try a few different settings I guess..
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 07:24 AM
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How did the bottoming out go after you adjusted the preload?
Did it stop the bottoming out?
Did it make the rear end buck alot after that?
Mine was bottoming out this weekend and Scott suggested I adjust the preload by a 1/2 inch but I wont be able to try it out till next month.

The bottoming out stopped except on extreme G-outs/transistions. It duned really well and was just what the car needed for high speed dune driving. Through whoop sections like sand highway it did buck more but only at higher speeds where you were going to feel it no matter how much you adjusted the stock shocks. At normal speeds in the whoops it was actually better. When trying to go as fast as possible to keep up with long travel guys it acted just like Freezens video from the the suspension show and shine last year. Overall I was really happy with adding preload.

I did play with it and without an ice chest 4 full rounds of pre-load from stock worked well. With the ice chest in needed 6 full rounds. I went up to 8 rounds and it felt good but just a little too stiff. I set up a little course in the small dunes by wash 10 and just kept running the same course. I drove it as fast as I possibly could for about 5 minutes and would come back to camp and add a turn or two untill it quit bottoming out. After that I played with the compression a little bit but ended up right back at the stock settings. I never messed with the rebound setting. I'm sure if I would of taken the time to play with the rebound and compression settings I could of got it to ride better but it was already pretty good.

2010 green sport. Xmf 2 seat radius cage. Cognito BOC Tower LT, Induced fab doors, Beard super T1 seats, A bunch of DASA stuff. and a whole mess of other stuff.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 12:05 PM
 
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The bottoming out stopped except on extreme G-outs/transistions. It duned really well and was just what the car needed for high speed dune driving. Through whoop sections like sand highway it did buck more but only at higher speeds where you were going to feel it no matter how much you adjusted the stock shocks. At normal speeds in the whoops it was actually better. When trying to go as fast as possible to keep up with long travel guys it acted just like Freezens video from the the suspension show and shine last year. Overall I was really happy with adding preload.

I did play with it and without an ice chest 4 full rounds of pre-load from stock worked well. With the ice chest in needed 6 full rounds. I went up to 8 rounds and it felt good but just a little too stiff. I set up a little course in the small dunes by wash 10 and just kept running the same course. I drove it as fast as I possibly could for about 5 minutes and would come back to camp and add a turn or two untill it quit bottoming out. After that I played with the compression a little bit but ended up right back at the stock settings. I never messed with the rebound setting. I'm sure if I would of taken the time to play with the rebound and compression settings I could of got it to ride better but it was already pretty good.
I think kind of spaced out when I asked you those questions, was the adjustments you made on your stock sport shock or your long travel kit

2010 Sport, XMF 4 seat cage with roof and XMF doors, XMF +5 LT, Beard seats and 5 points, Skats in back Dune Stars up front, Muzzy pros, MSD and VForce stage 3, 40" Rigid bar, 10" Rigid amber on an LIT bumper, BRP pod and gauges and Custom blanket in the back for my girls, courtesy of Gramma

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 07:33 PM
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I would like to adjust my sport shocks by replacing them with long travel, but it ain't happening any time soon.

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 10:24 PM
 
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I would like to adjust my sport shocks by replacing them with long travel, but it ain't happening any time soon.
X2....

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 12:50 AM
 
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Proper shock set up procedure:
1- Set the spring preload to the desired ride height for the load carried.
2 - Set the Rebound to keep the shock from kicking (but not too much other wise it will pack up).
3- Set the compression to prevent bottoming during normal driving.
Do not be afraid to play with the settings. This method works for stock, Fox, Elka, Kings, WER, bypass, etc.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by efajeep View Post
I think kind of spaced out when I asked you those questions, was the adjustments you made on your stock sport shock or your long travel kit
Stock sport shocks. I have not tried out the LT kit yet. Still in off season rebuild mode.

2010 green sport. Xmf 2 seat radius cage. Cognito BOC Tower LT, Induced fab doors, Beard super T1 seats, A bunch of DASA stuff. and a whole mess of other stuff.
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