First off I'm sorry, but I am horrible at taking pictures and always forget to, but here is the story and a couple pics. Oh and sorry for making the story so long.

So my buddies father in-law has a Manx that hasn't run in about 16+ years. I owed my buddy some favors and decided to help him get this thing working again.

About a year or two ago we were shooting the breeze over some frosty's and decided to start working on it. The next day we started fixing it up but didn't get much done. Basically we put new axle boots on it. While doing that I found out his wife's grandfather had built the engine for it 12-15 years ago so we dropped it out and took it to him to go thru it. He took it all apart and oiled up all the journals and it checked out okay; however he wasn't to happy to find out this was not the 1835cc he built for it but a stock fresh 1600cc engine. (I'm guessing father in-law bartered it away at some point but will never admit to it.)

So after going thru the engine we reinstalled it and got it running and then it sat for about the last year. I showed my dad the car one day and he started laughing and said "Scooby doo mobile" After that the name Scooby stuck to the car.

I finally tell my buddy I will build a roll bar for the car since I want to see this thing running again. The original roll bar had rotted through (Car was sank two times in salt water in Mexico years ago) and was only a hoop that had two bolts in the floor and a U-bolt through the fiberglass. Pretty scary if you ask me.

The floors were in pretty poor shape but salvageable. So Thanksgiving week I go pick up the car and bring it to my house. They wanted a roll bar just like it had but I told them I wouldn't do it that way because it was totally unsafe. They ended up giving me free reign to do what I wanted but asked that I don't cut any of the fiberglass, make it bolt in, and keep the back seat accessible.

I ended up having to heavily reinforce the floors because they ended up being worse than I thought. Since I'm still learning how to use my bender I decided to start with building an engine cage which was pretty simple. After getting it all tacked up it looked pretty good so I solid welded it. This is where things started going wrong, more on that later.

I bent up the main hoop of the roll bar and screwed up and had my second bends off from each other by an inch so that hit the scrap pile. I bend up another one and had it right on the money. I made some floor plates to bolt in on top of where I reinforced the pan. I tacked that in and then made another hoop to go around the outside of the back seat. It didn't want to sit quite the same on each side of the car. After countless hours of trying to make it match I started measuring the car and found the passenger side is a full inch different from the driver side. (70's quality control on the molds)

After getting it as best as I could I added two diagonal braces. After getting that done I decided I was going to connect it to the engine cage. I went to tie it in and again ran into the car being no where close to the same. I started splitting the difference in lengths trying to trick the eye and got it close and tacked it all together. I looked at it and thought it was good and final welded everything.

After getting it all done I pulled it out of the garage and into the street so I could stand back and look at it. The roll bar was perfect but the engine cage was crazy crooked because I was using the cars body lines as my reference points. I decided It was way to bad and would have to be redone.

I cut the engine cage all back apart and changed the design of it since I didn't have enough tubing to duplicate it. I ended up building a whole new one using the roll bar as my reference point so it would look straight with it. I think it worked out for the better as I like the way it looks now anyway.





I put new wheel cylinders and a master cylinder in it and got the engine running. I painted the floor pans and the sides of the car black. I put about 2-3 gallons of gas in it but drove it around my block several times.





When I went to drive the car back to him about 2 miles away I ended up running out of gas and had to push it by myself to the gas station about 1/3 mile away.



Here it sits back at his house.



Hopefully I'll get the chance to take some better photo's this week.

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2010 green sport. Xmf 2 seat radius cage w/ light bar and 5 HID's,Cognito BOC Tower LT, Induced fab doors, Beard super T1 seats, A bunch of DASA stuff. and a whole mess of other stuff.

Looks sweet! My pops had a manx back when I was about 12, Ive always wanted to build one but have never found anything at a bargin to start with.

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Thanks. After working on this one and driving it around the block I want one.

I wanted to do a full roll cage but thier's no room to do an A Pillar with out cutting the fiberglass and having it go through the body. Your leg rest against the fiberglass plus my bender can't do the multiple bends needed to get it to hug the bodylines behind the windsheild and dash with out at least cutting the dash and having it block a big portion of the windshield.


I think I might build myself a playcar Teryx chassis next. Thinking copy all the suspension mounts and pickups but stretch it about 12" behind the drivers seat setting the motor back and extending the front driveshaft. I think by doing this it would jump better with no more nose dives.

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2010 green sport. Xmf 2 seat radius cage w/ light bar and 5 HID's,Cognito BOC Tower LT, Induced fab doors, Beard super T1 seats, A bunch of DASA stuff. and a whole mess of other stuff.

Is the reason you would copy the teryx exactly so that you could swap over all the parts on your current teryx?

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk

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That was my thought. Then I would be able to transfer over all the suspension, diffs, rack etc. I figure all the engineering has been done so why mess with what works. In the mean time while building it I would still be able ride the teryx as it is now.

I would make the car wider and lower with a seat drop but also bring the sides up diaganally like crowly's race car for rock crawling. I keep telling myself it cant be that hard to do....

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2010 green sport. Xmf 2 seat radius cage w/ light bar and 5 HID's,Cognito BOC Tower LT, Induced fab doors, Beard super T1 seats, A bunch of DASA stuff. and a whole mess of other stuff.

Oh its not hard, I could build that in my sleep, as I chuckle at my own sarcastic comment.

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2009 Kawasaki Teryx Sport FU2Chassis 4 seat cage, DASA exhaust w/quiet cores, DASA impeller, DASA OD clutch plate, DASA KEBC block off plate, MSD, bored out throttle bodies, FuelUTV Siphon break, LTI UNI air filter, lime green secondary spring, TripleX rear bench, KBrown Customs oem replacement HIDs, 4" HIDs, Fiber Skinz diff skids
Safety is no accident

LOL Pete!

I know it will take much longer and cost much more than I can plan. The goal would be 4 months and $2000.00 in material including all tabs and hopefully sheet metal. What would really end up happening is it would take 12months, and $8000.00 since everything I do ends up taking 3x as long and costing 4x as much as planned. The above roll bar was suppose to take 2 weeks and ended up taking 2 months. But I only worked on it when I felt like it.

Now If I could just find a good welding table or chassis table on Craigslist for cheap....

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2010 green sport. Xmf 2 seat radius cage w/ light bar and 5 HID's,Cognito BOC Tower LT, Induced fab doors, Beard super T1 seats, A bunch of DASA stuff. and a whole mess of other stuff.

I don't know what cheap is for a welding table, but I saw this one.

And this one.

This one isn't cheap.

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2009 Kawasaki Teryx Sport FU2Chassis 4 seat cage, DASA exhaust w/quiet cores, DASA impeller, DASA OD clutch plate, DASA KEBC block off plate, MSD, bored out throttle bodies, FuelUTV Siphon break, LTI UNI air filter, lime green secondary spring, TripleX rear bench, KBrown Customs oem replacement HIDs, 4" HIDs, Fiber Skinz diff skids
Safety is no accident

I think you could do it with 8 lengths of tube but lets go with 10 to be safe.
Tube $280
Aluminum $400
Dzus Fasteners $200
CNC Cut Front and Rear Bulk Head $150
Uhmw For skids $300
Misc Plate work and tabs $300
Shop Consumables ie Welder gas Grinding disks. $200
Misc Hardware ie New brake lines Bolts Nuts Driveline $500

Total $2330
Then I think I would be safe to add in an extra $1K for when you actually do the change over for things like Fuel lines and fittings. Steering adapters and things like that.

As far as your time line I know for me it would be two months just to do the switch after I had the new chassis built.

IDk you could build a very nice mini buggy for $8k-$12k depending on options like shocks, wheels tires, motor. It would be a fun project though wouldn't it?

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