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Homemade Long Travel (the build thread)

This is a discussion on Homemade Long Travel (the build thread) within the Suspension forums, part of the Kawsaki Teryx Forum Technical category; Correct me if I am wrong, but this is the same concept of building a big lift for these bikes the only thing diferent is ...


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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2010, 01:56 PM
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Correct me if I am wrong, but this is the same concept of building a big lift for these bikes the only thing diferent is the shock location?
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2010, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digger View Post
How much money are you trying to recover for the +3.
I would like to see $500 for the arms, Steering extension and cut and sleeved axles. I think I will be close to $400 into it not counting my time to build it or the jig.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 974door View Post
Correct me if I am wrong, but this is the same concept of building a big lift for these bikes the only thing diferent is the shock location?
I have never looked into lifting one but I would say yes longer arms with the shock set up so the suspension is almost at full droop would give you some good lift. Why do people lift them? Mud?


Three down 5 to go.



Presidents day testing is not looking good.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2010, 02:32 PM
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Any thoughts of bracing the lower arms down by the ball joints?
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2010, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Freeezen View Post
Any thoughts of bracing the lower arms down by the ball joints?
I dont think it needs it but I have been thinking of plateing the arm with some dimple die action kinda like the fabtech kit. A little bling. The problem is how much time and money do I invest in a kit I dont even plan on using for more then a trip or two? But ya a simple gueeset wouldnt take much time and couldnt hurt right?
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2010, 04:41 PM
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I hope you guys can help me out on this. I have had a few people talk with me about ball joint angle. And I must admit I don't really understand what they are talking about. I have been told the I should increase the angle of the ball joint so it is not a limiting factor in travel. Now I do understand the the longer arms can add some lift to the vehicle witch would decrease the amount the suspension can travel down before the ball joint reaches full bump. But my thinking is If I was to add angle in the arms to correct this then my CV or steering would be the next inline to limit. Now I have don't done the R and D to back my thought up but I would think that Kawaskai made the most safe travel they could from the suspension.
Example: These are made up numbers but lets say the axle can safely travel 28* but the ball joint can only travel 25* then Yes I could change the angle of my arm 3* to gain an extra 3* of up travel. But now I am at the limit of my CV witch may not be safe for long term use. But but using the stock suspension geometry but adding length to the arms I can add travel but still remain within the safe angle limits placed their by the Kawasaki engineers.

Attached are a couple of quick drawing I did in cad to show my example. they do not represent anything other then an example. 0ne shows a 15" line while the other is a 18" line. IE 3" over. Both are set at 28*



I may be totally off base In what I think these people are talking about and if so educate me please.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2010, 05:15 PM
 
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5 c notes seems ok. I may be interested depending on your testing. Mine is soon to be a four seater so I may Need to up grade the axles at some point. I was planing on trying to build my own but I am sure that I would spend a lot more with my learning curve.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2010, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deviant_Illusion View Post
I dont think it needs it but I have been thinking of plateing the arm with some dimple die action kinda like the fabtech kit. A little bling. The problem is how much time and money do I invest in a kit I dont even plan on using for more then a trip or two? But ya a simple gueeset wouldnt take much time and couldnt hurt right?
I was just talking about some simple plate to tie the two tubes together down low.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2010, 11:46 AM
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Front Arms done. And so am I for the weekend. I'm going to relax for the rest of the day.

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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2010, 08:04 PM
 
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Looking very good.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2010, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deviant_Illusion View Post
Front Arms done. And so am I for the weekend. I'm going to relax for the rest of the day.

The arms look really good, especially the gussetted lower arms.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 12:48 AM
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Wheres the close up of the welds?
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2010, 05:39 AM
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Looks really good. Keep up the good work. There are a lot of people following this thread.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2010, 02:20 PM
 
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if you keep the stock ball joint angle you are going to have to postion the shocks so that it has some lift. other wise if you stay at stock ride heigth it will have a bad angle on the ball joints
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2010, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncpene View Post
if you keep the stock ball joint angle you are going to have to postion the shocks so that it has some lift. other wise if you stay at stock ride heigth it will have a bad angle on the ball joints
Will you draw me a picture? I really cant understand what your talking about.

Again this is a crude drawing done in auto cad with guesstamtaion #'s (my Teryx is in storage for the winter still) but it does show some points. And is more then anyone telling me my ball joints will bind can or will show me.


Totally stock on the left. A-arms are close to stock size sitting at what I would guess ride height to be at 15*. (again this may be off some)
Then to the right we have +3 arms sitting at the exact same angle as stock. Take notice that it does net a 3/4" lift in ride height but it remains at 100% stock suspension geometry other then the amount of leverage that will be placed on the shock. The hope is with the preload up on stock shocks their wont be much more then 3/4" sag and this would leave us at a stock or close to it ride height.

Now what is not shown here but I did model in cad is that with the 3" over arms sitting at stock ride height only nets a 2.5* difference in ball joint angle.
I dont understand how that could be called a bad angle since a winch with bumper or snow plow could cause the same amount.

Anyways I will have my Teryx out this weekend to install this kit and hope to document and prove that the ball joints are not a limiting factor in this. People talk about it but not one person has been able to show me. I'm not saying that I am not wrong but so far I have more info to show me I am correct then the other way around.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2010, 06:39 PM
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Well I didnt do shit this weekend on the Teryx or suspension. But I am still heading out to little sahara tomorrow with the dirt bike. Any one going to be their?
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