well today i decided to pull the rear seats and bed off and look at what it would take to make my own bed lift.

bed framing



the framing attaches with 4 bolts



bed raised with wood cribbing just to see if i liked it



with the bed raised about 3.5" the gap between the bed box and rear seat pan.




the bracket to lift the bed would be really easy to make but the trim panel needed to fill the gap would be a PITA to make. it would have to be strong enough to support the front of the bed box and seal 100% like stock to keep the dust out.

not an easy task for a home garage project. too many angles to deal with for me.

now if someone made a fiberglass mold of the bed box front piece and the rear seat pan then added the bed lift heigth and had it bolt in using the stock mounts it would look factory and be worth the money.

for now i will leave my bed alone untill a kit come out with all of the necessary parts to make it look stock.

I will give you and A for effort, nice try but good decision on leaving it to the pros. I am hesitant to start modifying my T4, because I am worried that it will turn into my 2010 (almost unrecognizable). The T4 is still new and shiny, maybe after a few scratches I will give it a go.

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2012 VIBRANT blue Teryx 4, Muzzy pro's, ECU reflash, custom cage & roof, windshield, 14" STI HD Beadlocks 7 29.5x11x14 Outlaw 2's, Warn XT40 winches front & rear, bedlift 2" Highlifter kit

2010 black, FST 840 stage II cams, DASA intake & injectors, BF throttle bodies, Msd, Muzzy Pro`s, Snorkeled, Warn XT40, ITP T-7 Beadlocks & 27.5x11x14 Pitbull Growlers EMP bumper, Custom rear Radiator, Unisteer

Someone has to be working on it. It looks so much better raised up! But without the necessary fillers, I don't see as many people pulling the trigger on the bed lift.

I think the idea of cutting the rear plastic panel horizontally about 2" down from the top strait across would be pretty easy to build patch panel for. Just leave the top 2" attached to the bed and build a strait panel with a few breaks in it to fill the gap.

Thats the easy part, the sides at the fenders are where it gets tricky. Lots of angles and support needed.

I'll have to look at mine. A little head scratching may be in order.

Thread hijack!
I haven't seen a kit close up yet, but I have some "Wally" bed lift kits coming. The kit will be $120.

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Chris@BenchmarkPerformance.us
Benchmark Performance
760-484-0986
Engine Specialists, Side x Side Parts & Accessories, Discount OEM Parts

Sounds like that is just for the brackets and hardware not a filler panel, but i could be wrong. If its only $120 complete then send me one.

By the way, nice blast cabinet hiding in the corner!

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Chris@BenchmarkPerformance.us
Benchmark Performance
760-484-0986
Engine Specialists, Side x Side Parts & Accessories, Discount OEM Parts

Thanks, i scored hat for free from one of our fabshops that we closed down a few years ago. It came with 20 gallons of glass beads. Its the best for cleanning up parts before painting or polishing.

Just a thought but what if you started the cut just bellow the bottom screw on the front of the bed side and went up at an angle to the back corner aprox 2-3" below the top. Then all screws would still line up and the filler plate would be pretty easy to fab up. I'll have to take mine apart a little to get a better look. Also, it looks like the plastic panel below the seat will still be in the way of any huge tire clearance benefits. Hopefully this makes sense.