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Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.

This is a discussion on Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy. within the Teryx4 forums, part of the Kawsaki Teryx Forum General Teryx category; Polaris sets the standards for easy belt change and it can be done in the field in about 30 minutes on most models. The Suzuki ...


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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2013, 09:15 PM
 
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Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.

Polaris sets the standards for easy belt change and it can be done in the field in about 30 minutes on most models. The Suzuki King Quad 700 and 750 is also easy to change the belt in the field.

The shop manual says to remove both nuts and slide the pulleys off the shafts to replace the belt. Torque on the rear or driven pulley is 100 ft lb, the front or drive pulley is 69 ft lb. The nuts must be replaced according to the shop manual as they loose some of their locking value.

The shop manual has you install 12 x 1.25 bolts 30 mm long to release the rear pulley a little so the new belt will sit down allowing the pulleys to slip onto the shafts with out binding.

The bolts I used are about 48mm or 2 inches long but a bit shorter is fine. With the rear driven pulley opened all the way the belt can be rolled off. There is enough play in the belt to remove it without binding or damage. I used a piece of nylon rope to pull the belt outward and carefully worked the belt off while turning the pulley counter clockwise and then in reverse to install a new belt.

I carry long nose pliers to remove any belt debris from behind the pulleys but there is little chance of belt failure with a new belt every 200 hours or about 3,500 miles. The exception is running extra large tires and or abusing the belt by running it in high range at low speeds below 15 mph.

My belt has 196.2 hours and 3,622 miles so it was time to replace it. I measure just below the outboard notches and compared it with a new belt. I had .9 mm wear. The shop manual is not very clear but it looks like .5mm wear may be time to replace it on the Teryx 4. My belt looked like new except for the nearly 1mm wear. Most quad and side by side brands give a 1mm to 2mm belt wear limit so a 1mm wear limit should be OK.

The belt drive case dowels must be installed into the engine case to help align the belt drive case bearing.
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Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.-001.jpg   Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.-003.jpg   Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.-006.jpg   Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.-007.jpg   Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.-009.jpg   Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.-010.jpg  
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:20 PM
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Thanks for the info bud
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:37 AM
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GREAT info. Thank you!!!
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:37 AM
 
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Is the cover any better to re-install than the t2.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:47 AM
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Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.

Thought the clutch was oil bathed
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:47 AM
 
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The T4 cover is easy compared to the T2. Only one bracket to remove and 2 pieces of plastic. The gas tank is easy to remove also. The T2 takes twice as long or more to replace a belt plus the shim change on the rear driven pulley to get the belt deflection right.
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:51 AM
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I tried this on my 2014 T4 and they must have change the casing from the 2013's as there is no room between the driven pulley and the casing to let the belt in. I had to remove both pulleys. Ain't as bas as it looks. I used a piece of wood broomstick to lock the drive pulley to torque back to 69#. I had my GF step on the brakes to torque the driven pulley
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:55 AM
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What plastic did you have to remove to get there. Got any more pics? Thank you for sharing!!
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:13 AM
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I have over 200 hrs. on mine,but just 1500mi. Kinda on the fence about changing the belt.
Still haven't figured out how to get the dam top cover off of the motor. how do you guy's do it?
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:14 AM
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Remove the seat, and the plastics that surround the gas tank. There is also a frame bracket to remove behind the gas tank (you can see where it goes in the picture). And of course remove the gas tank and cover.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:26 AM
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So I don't have to remove the top plastic cover?
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
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So I don't have to remove the top plastic cover?
Exactly what I was getting at. That is cool!!!
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondabob View Post
Polaris sets the standards for easy belt change and it can be done in the field in about 30 minutes on most models. The Suzuki King Quad 700 and 750 is also easy to change the belt in the field.

The shop manual says to remove both nuts and slide the pulleys off the shafts to replace the belt. Torque on the rear or driven pulley is 100 ft lb, the front or drive pulley is 69 ft lb. The nuts must be replaced according to the shop manual as they loose some of their locking value.

The shop manual has you install 12 x 1.25 bolts 30 mm long to release the rear pulley a little so the new belt will sit down allowing the pulleys to slip onto the shafts with out binding.
I hope these are supposed to be 8x1.25x30mm and not 12x1.25.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:06 PM
 
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Yup its 8mm bolts. This won't work on the 2014 Teryx due to the larger driven pulley.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:33 PM
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Teryx 4 seater Belt Change Made Easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hondabob View Post
Yup its 8mm bolts. This won't work on the 2014 Teryx due to the larger driven pulley.
The 8mm x1.25 bolt WILL work on the 2014 but i'm pretty sure 30mm isn't enough to get the driven fully opened. I use a 60mm lenght.


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Last edited by Martin97; 03-13-2014 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:10 PM
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I cannot get the rear pulley to stop turning to torque it. Brakes does no good. Any pointers? Thanks for all the info. First time changing a belt and it's gone pretty smooth so far.
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:48 PM
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Great post. Would love to see the same deal for a 2014. Was hoping by now there would be something for the 2014 on you tube. (hint hint nudge nudge VFJ)

Just so I understand this right. The bolts are screwed/driven in to push the rear clutch apart? The purpose of the rachet is to turn the clutch? I assume the 2014 would be loosen the nut off and use bolts to push off clutch completely if removing?????? I did this once on my 2010 Teryx two seater with the puller. I have never done a Teryx4 or a 2014 Teryx 4. I assume there is no puller needed?
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwvsportsman View Post
I cannot get the rear pulley to stop turning to torque it. Brakes does no good. Any pointers? Thanks for all the info. First time changing a belt and it's gone pretty smooth so far.
I managed to torque it with the brakes. I needed both feets on it. If it doesnt work, maybe try to get winch cable out, get a good attach point and put transmission in reverse


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Old 03-14-2014, 02:35 PM
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Thanks Martin. I'll give it a shot. Just had my daughter on the brakes. Will try my wife instead.
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nozzleweed View Post
Great post. Would love to see the same deal for a 2014. Was hoping by now there would be something for the 2014 on you tube. (hint hint nudge nudge VFJ)

Just so I understand this right. The bolts are screwed/driven in to push the rear clutch apart? The purpose of the rachet is to turn the clutch? I assume the 2014 would be loosen the nut off and use bolts to push off clutch completely if removing?????? I did this once on my 2010 Teryx two seater with the puller. I have never done a Teryx4 or a 2014 Teryx 4. I assume there is no puller needed?
Yep, the 8mm bolts open the driven pulley so the belt can go in further giving it some slack. No puller needed as both pulleys are mounted on splined shafts. They get off easy when bolts are off.

To resume, to change a belt on a 2014 T4, remove both pulleys, open the driven with the 8mm bolts, put the new belt in the pulleys and get them back on the shafts all together.

Hope that's clear... I speak french normally...




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Old 03-14-2014, 03:15 PM
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No luck on the brakes. The clutch just spins on the belt. Should the belt be holding the clutch? If so, I must have done something wrong. Seemed pretty straight forward to me though.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwvsportsman View Post
No luck on the brakes. The clutch just spins on the belt. Should the belt be holding the clutch? If so, I must have done something wrong. Seemed pretty straight forward to me though.
Do you still have bolts in? They should be out I assume. Then torque?
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:23 PM
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Do you still have bolts in? They should be out I assume. Then torque?
Yes bolts are out, but belt isn't tight.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:23 PM
 
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Torque secondary

Use block of wood from one of the three holes to frame and torque up nut. Have done this on many clutches works great just don.t get to rammy
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:24 PM
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Spin the secondary by hand counter clockwise (I think) until the belt tightens and then try to tighten the nut

The secondary will stay spread even after the bolts are removed until you rotate the secondary.

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Last edited by GoodtimesGoodfriends; 03-14-2014 at 07:16 PM.
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