2013 T4 rear differential drain plug stripped - Kawasaki Teryx Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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2013 T4 rear differential drain plug stripped

Was changing my differential fluids on my 2013 T4 EPS LE . Started with rear...drained fluid, cleaned the magnetic head...was putting in the drain plug with new crush seal (aluminum washer)....and the plug just stripped out the threads in the housing.

Yes, I threaded in the plug by hand....and then I was using a torque wrench...specs call for 25 ft. lbs on rear drain plug and 11 ft lbs on front drain plug....I had set it incorrectly to 11 for the rear (which is lower than spec), so was not even close to required torque.

What the hell!!! The housing threads came out in almost one piece on the plug....wrapped around the plug.

Can't tell if it's the original threads that the original owner had repaired in some way or what.... I bought the unit used and have about 600 miles that I put on it....out of 1800 The drain plug still catches the threads but won't tighten.

Is there enough material in the differential houseing to tap new threads and go with a bigger plug?

Will helicoils work?

How about one of those rubber expanding drain plugs that we used to have for automobile engine oil pans?

Am I up shit's creek and have to replace the housing????

HELP!!!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 03:12 PM
 
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Yes helicoil will work perfectly. I have done may oil pans and striped out spark plugs in aluminum heads .
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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How did you handle the tang on the helicoil....when you broke it off....or did you just leave in there
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:18 PM
 
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You can just leave it their it wont hurt anything. But u can get a different kind that doesn't have a tang .
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:39 AM
 
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You’re not screwed. Had the same issue on our 2014 T4 LE. Used a Time Sert kit and haven’t had an issue since. They’re about twice the price of a helicoil but as I understand it is a more permanent repair.

I think the kit number for our ‘14 was 1215c. I wasn’t sure about which one I needed but I called Time Sert and they were very helpful in directing me to the correct one.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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UPDATE:
First, thank you to all who responded.....This Forum is the BEST!!!

I did pick up a helicoil kit...damn, they are expensive...but I guess cheaper than the alternative.

I checked the M12-1.25 threads against the 1/2-20 thread pattern, with the pitch on the 1/2-20 being 1.27 in metric, and the diameter is 12.7mm....as the saying goes, "good enough for government work" compared to the metric plug that is in there. I had a 1/2-20 tap sitting around, and picked up a 1/2-20 magnetic drain plug from O'Reilly's. The housing hole was pretty well stripped out, the threads came out in almost one piece, but just enough left in there to screw in the old M12 plug, just would not torque down. So away I went tapping in the 1/2-20. The new threads seemed to cut pretty well, put in the new 1/2-20 plug, filled up the differential, and snugged it down...definitely NOT 25 ft-lbs like my manual had, which I found in other posts on here as being incorrect. Drove the T4 around my neighborhood for about 20 minutes checking for any leaking or looseness. I'm going to put some paint marks on the drain plug so that I can visually check it for loosening up. A few more short trips around the neighborhood are on the schedule before I take the T4 on any excursions. If it doesn't hold up...the helicoil repair will be next.

BTW, O'Reillys or Autozone also carry 1/2-20 oversize drain plugs, which appear to have a self tapping feature, but if the standard one doesn't hold up, I don't plan on going that route.

Thanks Gearhead for that suggestion on the paint mark.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 08:52 PM
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Glad your retap to standard thread worked, but if you have have a recurring problem Hay Man 40s recommendation on the Timesert kit is a good one. I used them on some "factory" repairs, installed straight and properly they are better than the original aluminum threads.
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