Heat from engine - Kawasaki Teryx Forum
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Heat from engine

I am new to this forum, so sorry if this post is not in the correct area. We recently purchased a 2018 Teryx 4 after selling our quads. The heat in the front from the engine is terrible. Has anyone found a kit, or used some home-made method to cut the engine heat, around the drivers seat especially? Thank you for any information.
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 05:50 PM
 
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Heat from engine

Welcome to the forum.

Iíve read somewhere where people were pulling the plastics and doing something to help with the heat. Sorry I canít remember. Maybe try to google it or search the forum. Also seen where some were putting a piece of rubber under the driver seat to help with heat. And I just read this last night that if you remove the cat from the exhaust, they are saying it helps reduce the cab heat due to more air flow through the exhaust therefore engine temp drops. They were saying they seen a noticeable difference in cab temps. Some say it gives the Teryx a little more pep too. Iím going to try removing my cat too. Canít see what it would hurt to try besides maybe a warranty issue. Thatís if they find it. There was also a recent post here where someone cut in vents on the side to help with heat I believe. And I agree it is hot in the cab but the motor is right beside you so I expect it to be hot. My RZR was hot too with the motor behind you.




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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 07:55 PM
 
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Following this post. I'm also new to Kawi and have the same question.
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you for the information.
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 05:35 AM
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mid engine side by sides have issues with heat due to location of engine. I have a 2010 Teryx and this is a list of things I did to help remove heat.

1. Use Engine Ice antifreeze and remove thermostat.
2. Add snorkel kit to remove heat better from belt.
3. insulated all of the plastic covering the engine.
4. Cut a hole in the bed so air could leave the engine compartment better.

All of these things have made a bearable to ride now.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 06:44 PM
 
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I just wrapped my entire exhaust in dei and started putting dynamat on all the plastics and heat shields haven't rode much since to see how much it helped. I didn't see a cat on mine previous owner may have removed it since it has an aftermarket muffler. I ran out of dynamat before I could do the center console. Got some more on the way. I hope it cuts down engine noise as well. It's so stinking loud in there.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-29-2018, 05:23 PM
 
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I have a 2016 T4 and wanted too cut down heat and noise.

I took out the back seats and plastics underneath first. I then added a layer of heat & noise reducing double layer mylar type material I cut to fit. I had to work the plastics back down and really work to get bolts back in place then bolted the seats back in. This cut most of the heat and noise from the muffler. This sealed the rear from water and salt coming in during the winter when I have the enclosed top on.

I then took the front seats out and lined under them with the same material along with covering the driver side under seat oil dipstick tunnel access area with the same material. The tiny rubber piece that comes from the factory doesn't cut any heat or noise.

I plan to line the plastics on the drivers side of the tunnel as well. Since the antifreeze runs to and from the radiator and engine right next to your right ankle and calf when driving. I think that will eliminate the rest of the excess heat.

Right now with what I have done so far, it is comfortable driving up to about 90 degrees. After that it still gets pretty warm, but nothing like it did from the factory. Before I lined under the rear seats and front seats and driver seat tunnel access, it was only comfortable up to the low 70's.

You don't want to screw around with the thermostat as these newer engine run better at 210 degrees unlike my old chevys and Fords that I ran a 160 in the summer and changed to a 195 in the winter so the heater would work.

Also the heat issue is not there at all in the winter and you will need to add a hotrod heater core or heater kit to stay warm with the enclosed top on.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-03-2018, 08:23 AM
 
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Those that are using dynamat - are you lining the underside of the plastics, or the top (cab side) of the plastics?
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-04-2018, 10:35 AM
 
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extra heat gonna feel good in January.......
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-04-2018, 02:19 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddazzbigblue View Post
extra heat gonna feel good in January.......


That is true!!


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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 05:29 AM
 
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Seen this on team Teryx Facebook.


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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 07:16 AM
 
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Interesting. The heat isn't as big of an issue as the noise is (for me, at least). If I could cut some of the noise down with Dynamat, I'd be a happy camper. Decreasing the heat would be an added bonus for me.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-09-2018, 08:01 PM
 
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The 17s have the same padding as the pic above. I pulled that off lined everything with a dynamat knock off from Amazon called noico then put that foam back on. It does seem a little quieter and quite a bit cooler. The worst part is still around the ebrake and shifter. Not much we can do with that I guess. I still wish it was quieter though
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 08:16 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James_24_85 View Post
The 17s have the same padding as the pic above. I pulled that off lined everything with a dynamat knock off from Amazon called noico then put that foam back on. It does seem a little quieter and quite a bit cooler. The worst part is still around the ebrake and shifter. Not much we can do with that I guess. I still wish it was quieter though


Didnít know it was like that on the 17s. Iíve not pulled my 17 apart.


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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 04:22 AM
 
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I have not tried it ; but , a few peeps have told me they removed the "guts" out of the converter that is right before the muffler . They say it makes a noticeable difference in the cab heat . I am gonna do that ; and , bolt one of those all metal , heavy-duty 12v fans like you see in trucks and equipment to my roof .
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 08:15 AM
 
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Took the machine out for a quick run down the road just to warm the motor up and get it running. I notice that lots of the heat comes up through the gear shift and e-brake. I have some extra 24" rubber back commercial carpet squares that I can throw over the e-brake hump - maybe it'll cut down some of the noise. I also plan on cutting some carpet squares to make some floor mats and having it run up the sides of the floor in the hopes to cut noise heat and vibration down (the carpet squares are quite heavy and are dark gray - almost automotive carpet looking).

I also noticed LOTS of the noise comes from everything rattling and vibrating - one of my biggest culprits are the doors. It seems the rubber doughnut on the door catch can flatten over time, allowing the doors to rattle and vibrate. I think shimming the doughnuts with rubber would put tension on the catch and really helping with keeping the doors from rattling around.
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 03:07 PM
 
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Quick update on noise -

Shimming the door gromets reduced vibrations significantly.

I went ahead and trimmed the rubber backed carpet squares to line the bed and spent a fair amount of time making some floor mats. It cut noise down some, but not significantly. I also cut down some squares to place under the rear seats - the front seats have a thick foam under them from some extra anti-fatigue floor matting I had. I'm interested in seeing if these mats will help with the dust on the trail. This was a bit time consuming, but low (no) cost because I had the material laying around the house.

The carpet square draped over the front hump significantly cut heat down, and I think it helped some with the noise as well. I think I'm going to do some trimming in an attempt to make it better looking.

Adding a tilting wind screen made the biggest difference in heat (and obviously in dust reduction). It's nice to get some cool fresh air in the cab.

As time allows, I'll be using some sort of sound deadener on the interior panels to see if it helps with the heat and noise.

Heat from engine-20180730_112626.jpg
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 07:17 PM
 
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Did it today. Drop the muffler after removing the small heat shield and you will see it. Some people cut it off. Both works fine. I used different drill bits to just bust it up then needle nose. Start it and blow it out before you put the muffler back on. Iím not much of a mechanic and it wasnít bad at all. Maybe an hour or less
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 11:34 AM
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Heat and noise solutions

On my 2017 Teryx LE I use noise cancelling headphones and they cut the noise by at least one half. For the heat issue I just installed a 12 volt clip on fan from Walmart and it helps a lot. I removed the large clip from the fam and bolted the fan directly so it's more solid. Right now I'm using the 12v dash plug in, but I'll probably make a permanent hookup for the wiring too. While this isn't perfect it seems to work OK for me. I'm 5' 11" tall so maybe a taller person might need to mount it a bit differently, but for my size there's no problem.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 02:41 PM
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I am not sure insulating the engine from cab is good idea. you want heat to get away from machines and moving parts. Cutting vents in may help heat. May also make it louder.

Exhaust wrap is interesting idea. But would you be trapping water and cause corrossion and rust? They do it on bikes, which do get wet. But the exhaust on a bike is exposed better to air. I do find this interesting idea though.

Removing cats. I would look into whether you need to re tune. People have been putting loud exhaust on bikes for years. They say no more in so don't need to jet/tune. Some disagree. I tend to disagree too. But you still have the exhaust. Changing back pressure, but maybe not that bad.


Removing thermostat is not allowing it to warm up properly. I wouldn't, but make sure you put it back for winter. Also I kinda doubt it helps, since the thermostat is open once your riding, and still hot.


John Deere does make one with AC. But it is a bit $$$.
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 06:03 PM
 
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Thermostat removal is bad idea and not solution. Fan is great. Ex wrap great. Heat trapped and transferring through plastic isn't a worry but a problem. Insulate and reduce however ya can. My 2015 I removed plastic interior and wrapped inside with foil insul and it helped but not solved. My 2018 has factory insul on some of it which also helps.

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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 05:47 AM
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Was only 60s, but my 2019 seemed cooler
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 08:08 AM
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Found the heat going slow. I still think might be better than 2010. Most of my rides are slow, so I dunno.
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 05:24 AM
 
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I had a 2008 and the heat along side my leg was really bad , and I just bought a 2018 t2 and it is way way better they must have improved something
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 05:09 PM
 
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I'm not sure what kind of heat you guys are experiencing , but I have no complaints and in live in Southern Arizona. I had an arctic Cat Prowler that would boil your drink if you left it in the cup holder, now that machine was unbearable in the Arizona Summer.
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