2014 Teryx Stator Voltage - Kawasaki Teryx Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
 
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2014 Teryx Stator Voltage

Hey Guys,
I recently ran into charging issues with my '14 T4. I'm in the midst of trouble shooting the issue. I'm picking up a tach tonight so I can get the RPM at 4000 and check the voltage. The manual says 60-90 at 4000RPM but does not give any other values. If I'm doing it right, so far I'm getting 8V out of the stator at idle which seems way too low. On the flip side as soon as I rev it up slightly the voltage increase to 20V and so on. So I may get to the designated 60-90V at 4000RPM.

The voltage regulator is not putting out more than 12V even when reving up 6000-8000RPM so my initial thought is the regulator is gone. The only thing casting doubt is that 8V at idle. That's as far as I got with trouble shooting because by the time I started playing around with it was bedtime for my 8 year old assistant (designated rev guy).

I will be checking resistance and everything else on the stator in the coming days . If anyone knows how many volts the stator is supposed to put out at idle it would be nice to have that value. IMO it should be in the manual.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 06:30 AM
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I was thinking stator if you are not getting enough ac out.

I am guessing if you revved it up you hit 4k or atleast you have more voltage.


Could probably take 4k ac voltage the give and divide by 4. Another manual I got gives ac per 1k rpm.

You can also also ohm stator leads out. On another Maxine I got , I believe no reading to ground and gives value phase to phase.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 06:32 AM
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Not sure about these, but stator puts out ac voltage will go up with rpms. Regulator converts to DC and prevent from going to high.

Typical is 12.7 if not ran in awhile and 14.4 revved up. Need decent meter.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Would you have those ac values per 1k that are in your manual?
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 09:50 AM
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For harleys it is about 20 per 1000. Manual states it. I just got pfd for teryx. Not sure in there. Plus tough to look at on phone.

But to me 20 is low, if that is all your getting when reved up.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 02:58 PM
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60-90 vac at 4k rpm in 2017 manual. Disappointing that the range is so big. Are they really that wide ranging? I guess output per 1k rpm isn't such a big deal since no tach. But it would be nice to know.

I don't know what RPMS these run, should be able to find that somewhere, maybe in clutch engagement. Maybe some specs somewhere.

I would guess if you revve this up a bit, and you only got 20 VAC you are not putting out enough or loose connection.

stator resitance .11 to .17 ohm.


I know some electrical, but not a pro with engines. Just my own work.

When something doesn't charge, you check battery voltage, and connections tight. Loose connections happen alot. You checl AC output of stator. Check DC output of voltage regulator.


Lots of people jump right to assuming volt reg, and they do fail. But they are also just converting and regulating what they are given.


I am not sure how much is written for 4 wheeling I am sure stuff most be out there. You will find lots on bikes and cars. Which I think is probably similar. Key is finding the plug so you can check AC into volt reg. I can't remember if it is right at the volt reg or at stator, which could be PIA.

Also stators are some work to get at usually, they are on the crank. I'd get a service manual at this point.

Just gettng that the engine on this thing is time consuming.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 03:00 PM
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Static Stator Tests
First perform the static stator tests. With the ignition switch in the “Off” position, disconnect the regulator from the stator. Set the multimeter to “Resistance” or “Ohms” on the lowest scale, and insert one probe into one of the stator pin sockets. Touch the other probe to any chassis ground. If the display reads anything other than “Open” or the symbol for infinity, and shows any continuity at all, then you have a grounded stator and must replace it. Insert each probe into a stator socket. You should read around 0.2 to 0.5 ohms. If you show an open circuit with the “Open” or infinity reading or have higher resistance, then the stator is bad and you must replace it. If these tests all produce positive results, then the stator itself is good.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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The plug is just under the driver seat. That is where I was getting my readings a few days ago. I got a tach to set my engine RPM tonight the stator was putting out 7 volts at idle (700-800RPM) and at 4000RPM I was getting 20V. I plugged the voltage regulator and tested it again. I was only getting battery voltage. The regulator wasn't charging at all. So I unplugged it and checked the stator again. It's now giving me 3V at idle and same at +4000RPM.

Conclusion: The stator is done!

So disappointing. The only thing this bike had going for itself was it's reliability. Just looking in the manual I see that getting to that stator is a major PIA.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well I decided to get it done ASAP. I put the kids to bed and dug in. It's not as bad as I thought it would be. Took less than two hours to get the mag cover off. I'll try and attach pics but the magneto is charred pretty badly in two spot.

I'm worried about what would cause this? Manufacturer defect, over loading, boosting...??? The only accessories I have are a BOSS sound bar and winch.

I might upgrade to a stronger magneto if they're available and the price is right.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 07:40 PM
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How many miles?
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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3700miles

I had a bad battery in the winter of 2017/2018. I had to boost is here and there. I'm wondering if that would of fried this thing.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 05:06 AM
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Boosting once wasn't an issue. Some people claim a battery will make a stator work hard. Sounds believable in theory. Though I get years out of batteries. My 2010, that I bought in 2012 is still going. Bike batteries go 7 years+, no tenders, but charge once in the winter and once before starting. With the teryx if I was doing lots of winching or didn't go for a long ride, I will sometimes put on tender.

I got 3k, so I am curious. Sure doesn't seem like much. A bike will go 70k-100k+

Though it could need a boost cause stator is no putting out enough. Do you think it was battery from sitting to long, old battery? 2014 isn't that old. We are not in hot climates, which is hard on batteries. Worse than cold.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
 
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So at around 4500km my OEM battery went . I put in a new battery early 2018. I boosted the bike a hand full of times when the first battery was going on it. I also have a sound bar the draws down the battery if I don't remove the fuse so I've had to boost it for that also. I've boosted this thing around 10 times. Sometimes I've used a 10amp charger and other times I've boosted with one of my vehicles. I'm thinking this may be a cause for the burnt winding on the magneto.
Now I'm at 6000k (3700miles)
I'm 400K north of Toronto. I'm sure my first battery went because of low charge in winter (-35 to -45 some nights)
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 08:56 AM
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Cold Is really not that bad on batteries, it is the heat. Over 77 F.

I am on south shore lake superior. I leave in all winter,parked.

I don't think jumping hurt stator. Maybe having to recharge the battery. But I would think if it was from isolated stances. And not a bad battery it would be ok. It's job is to charge, it's always spinning. I am not even convinced having to charge chronicly bad batteries is that bad.

Depends on the design and what it is doing when not charging. Some dump to frame, which they say creates heat.

If your stereo is a big draw exceeding limits maybe.

Be interesting to put a clamp on DC amp meters on battery with radio playing. At idle it is probably drawing off battery. Lots of playing parked might be bad.

Volt meter on dash might be a nice thing to have.
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 09:29 PM
 
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Uh, the cold horrible on batteries. You lose tons of capacity. That's why car batteries have a very specific rating for the cold, called COLD cranking amps. Over 77F is nothing.

What would be great on these things is an alternator kit. Tons more output and most of it would be available at idle, with the rest not too far from idle. It would be ideal for those of us with higher power needs, such as a winch, which easily exceeds the full capacity of the stock stator and are not typically used while redlining the engine.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jabroni619 View Post
Uh, the cold horrible on batteries. You lose tons of capacity. That's why car batteries have a very specific rating for the cold, called COLD cranking amps. Over 77F is nothing.

e.

Read up on batteries. There is forumula for every degree over around 77 or 72F, atleast for acid.

My sxs, lawn mowers, snowmobile, tractor, live in unheated barns. I used to bring batteries in for winter. I just got to many. Plus I realized it doesn't mater. No I don't use a trickle char
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 05:00 AM
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I am feeling like a nice guy today. I was going to let you post again. A person should say, I didn't now that, or google themselves before saying something is not true.

Both extreme cold and extreme heat cause problems, but heat-related problems are more serious because they damage the battery. Vehicle batteries contain fluid. ... If a battery's fluid levels drop significantly, that can cause irreversible damage to your car battery.Apr 10, 2016


Higher temperatures will increase the self-discharge of the battery, so you may have to charge the battery more frequently if you don’t drive the vehicle very often.

Extremely hot weather and overcharging are the two main reasons for shortened battery life, according to the Car Council.




https://www.google.com/search?q=heat...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 08:36 AM
 
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No one ever said extremes aren’t bad. 77 isn’t extreme. You said cold isn’t bad. That’s incorrect. There’s a reason there’s a cold crank rating for batteries.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:31 PM
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Geesh. Just say I didn't know that.
But I am not going to waste time educating you.

Those articles are wrote for simple folk. IEEE reading might be a bit heavy for you.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 05:06 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Berserker View Post
Geesh. Just say I didn't know that.
But I am not going to waste time educating you.

Those articles are wrote for simple folk. IEEE reading might be a bit heavy for you.
Why do car batteries bother rating CCA and why is CCA lower than CA if cold doesn't matter? You're so smart, explain this phenomenon that shouldn't exist.
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 06:23 PM
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Theyare stuff to consumers. I'll be nice a leave it there.

Not saying zero effect. But over 77f it hurts your battery per degree. It would involve math to explain.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 06:25 PM
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Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) CCA is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating refers to the number of amps a 12-volt battery can deliver at 0°F for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 voltss
In some ways, the standard for CCAs is more of a marketing concept than a technical form of measurement for a battery’s output – it was started by the battery industry itself, and has stuck around in the mind of consumers for decades. Nevertheless, CCAs have now become the industry standard for measuring a battery’s starting power, and the term’s usefulness is in providing an apples-to-apples comparison when shopping for batteries.

*******


I dnot see why you cold nit crate a rsting for 50 degreen or 100. Other than explain it consumers
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 06:34 PM
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While it’s true that winter is a fairly common time for car batteries to die, some sources actually suggest that more batteries die in the summer than in the winter.

he science behind lead acid battery technology actually shows how both hot and cold weather can be unkind of the life and operation of a car battery. Even though the hot weather is a real battery killer, for a number of reasons, cold weather is also hard on car batteries.


******
Note the tone. These are articles written for consumers.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 06:37 PM
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Heat is a killer of all batteries, but high temperatures cannot always be avoided. This is the case with a battery inside a laptop, a starter battery under the hood of a car and stationary batteries in a tin shelter under the hot sun. As a guideline, each 8°C (15°F) rise in temperature cuts the life of a sealed lead acid battery in half. This means that a VRLA battery for stationary applications specified to last for 10 years at 25°C (77°F) would only live 5 years if continuously exposed to 33°C (92°F) and 30 months if kept at a constant desert temperature of 41°C (106°F). Once the battery is damaged by heat, the capacity cannot be restored.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 08:46 PM
 
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Again, no one here is denying that heat is bad for batteries. This debate started with you saying cold isn't bad and implying that anything above 77 F is worse. This is simply not the case. I can point to where you said cold isn't harmful, can you point me to a time where I said heat isn't harmful? I'll bet you cannot.
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