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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
RonnieMNL's Avatar
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Need Help - Drive Problem

Well, this is the first issue I have had with the Teryx.

A few days ago while climbing a small grade I heard a LARGE BANG. It sound as if a bolt had sheared. A good look over and nothing found.

Again, same day somewhat later same large bang. It sound as if the machine comes out of gear as it will jolt. As I made my way back home it did not occur again. Then again yesterday it happened several times. Large bang, bike make a lurch. It only happens on grade and under some strain. This morning the bang has now turned into a something similar to a ratcheting noise. The issue seems to be coming from directly under the passenger seat.

Can't get it into the dealer for two weeks and he is stumped as to what it can be.

Any guesses or opinions welcome. In the depths of winter here and a lot of plowing to do and I have half a winter's wood waiting to come out.

Sitting in the bike as I type this sulking! 🙂
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 01:15 PM
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I had something like what you described happen once when our 2018 was new. The issue was that the transmission did not shift even though the shifter was changed. After getting up some speed the transmission decided it was time to shift and the loud 'bang' occurred. Never happened again but I am sure that is what happened just by how it felt.

I assumed the issue was just because the Teryx was new and 'tight' and things needed to smooth-up. I have no idea if that is what caused it to happen but it has never happened since.

The fuel tank is under the passenger seat so It isn't coming from there though it might feel that way.

Can you remember if the issue you are having happened shortly after you shifted between low & high, or the other way around???
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks GrandMx,

I guess I should have added that it will not happen when I am in low. Only high in 4W...I run tracks so it must remain in 4W ofcourse.

I also should have been clearer, when I said pax seat I meant to say that side. It is diffiently coming from the lower right hand side.

One other issue I had that I forgot. Just before I put it in my garage I had to climb a small embankment. It the start to ratchet and "buck". I am wondering if it could possibly be in the clutch. A buddy of mine (rec vehicle mechanic) says that if it were a bearing or somewhere else in the tranny it would have shit the bed by now. Unfortunately he is quite a distance away and a diagnoses over the phone is impossible of course.
Thanks for the insight though.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 02:19 PM
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Once I was climbing a steep course sand hill. I let up too soon before I crested the top and the Teryx buried in the loose course sand. I was in 4-lock at the time. I got on it one time to see if it would make it over the top and I got the same kind of sound you described above! Just a loud terrible ratchety kind of sound! I figured it was the belt slipping as the Teryx tried to spin the tires but the traction was just too much and the tires wouldn't spin!

After shoveling a little behind all four tires I put the Teryx in reverse and easily backed back down the hill with no more sounds coming from the belt. I have no long term damage that I can tell as the 'buggy' runs normally with normal sounds.

I would guess your issue may be belt/clutch related???

Is there any info. available about how hard those tracks are on the belt/clutch vs. standard wheels?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 02:58 PM
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Not sure if it's the same thing we had on a 2005 trans 4x4 mule but I've also heard the Teryx has this sometimes the shifter itself the bracket bolts get loose or the shifter bracket cracks or breaks like ours did we had to take it off & welded it bolted it back down then it worked wonders
Also shift cabel adjustment does the same thing it will pop in & out of gear because it's not allowing it to go all the way into gear

2020 Teryx KRX 1000
kawi glass windshield with wiper roof
Polly rear window
upper soft doors,heater
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again. I am hoping it is as simple as the belt or clutch. I am taking off the cover in the morning as soon as the ice and snow melt off it.

Regarding the stress on the bike with tracks. I have never seen any published information. But from my experience after a few season of running them I can tell you with all certainty that it is hard on the bike. Your speed is cut almost in half and your gas consumption is cut in half. I do use my bike hard. I do not mean that I tear the crap out of it but 75% of the time I am plowing or towing a sleigh load of wood. It can push and pull like you would never believe and I know that I am wearing parts out much faster then normal. I have nearly 700 hours on the bike now and 9K (kilomteres) alot of it on tracks.
So, I guess I just keep looking for the issue. Belt and clutch being looked at in morning so I will let you know what I find. Thanks again!
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Ok Rocksoff.... I will be all over that in the morning. To be honest that is the first thing I thought of put the dealer said it was impossible.
But, as we know nothing is impossible. All this info is helping greatly. Thanks!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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Good morning guys,
This post will be a little long winded but I am hoping that anyone else who experiences this issue may see what I I found.
Firstly, my shop that I had so much faith in really #%## me off! This is there busy time of year with snowmobiles but they did not want to get involved for another month. I have been a loyal customer for a long time and dropped a lot of $$ there. They had never heard of the issue and their first response was that more then likely the engine would have to be pulled and the case split to get a look at the shift forks. I asked for a quote and they said a minimum of $2000.00. I nearly had a stroke!
At this point I said that I would have a run at it myself.
I stripped the bike completely and the first thing I got at was the primary and secondary clutch just to see if it was the primary make the noise. All was good there. I will also add that my belt had about 2500KM on it under some heavy plowing and towing. The belt was well within tolerances and even though I had purchased a new one since I was tearing the bike down I did not even bother to replace it.
Next move was over to the shifter itself. Everything looked fine (big mistake as I did not look close enough...more on that in a bit). I removed the shift shaft cover and the shift cam, bearings and shaft itself all looked fine. (Hmmm). The shift lever guide was removed and it appeared everything was fine there. At this point I was stumped. I put enough parts back on...gas tank and driver seat and took it out for a test ride to see if I could locate exactly were the sound was coming from. Drove in for half a hour....the bloody thing would not make the banging sound. WTF!
I did notice though that the shifting from H to L to R seemed much smoother then normal on clutch engagement as soon as I touch the accelerator. Hmmm.
Back in garage. I really dug into the maintenance manual and CAREFULLY this time read it from stem to stern. Well, there it was layed out quite simply. The tolerances on the shift cable are very low. 6MM off the shift lever guide wall when in N and 12MM off the shift lever guide wall when in H. I put the shift lever guide back on (without making adjustments) and found that when in H the shifter itself was bringing up on the shift lever guide wall. It was almost 20MM of the shifter lever guide wall when in N. I left it on and took it for a boogie and sure enough bang bang! Came in and took off shift lever guide again and another boogie and all good again. It was then (guess I am not to bright) that the first time I tried it with the shift lever guide off it was shifting into the position it should have been in and engaging fully.
Back in garage. Made at least three attempts and adjustments on the shift cable to right tolerances. Short test runs in between. Tolerances would vary on every ride. But on fourth adjustment it is now bang on. (No pun intended). The two large shift cable nuts need very little adjustment to throw it in or out of range.
As stated before I may shift a hundred times or more on somedays while plowing to towing wood.
Moral of the story I HAD STRETCHED THE SHIFT CABLE. (Phack)
Sorry again to be long winded but hey, it may help someone else.
BTW... I found I had cracked a rear CV dust cover while at it so that is a good thing I found that before a blew a bearing!! Now I have to take of the bloody track though and that is a pain in the ar$e.

Last edited by RonnieMNL; 01-26-2020 at 03:51 AM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 07:55 AM
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Ronnie, thanks very much for taking the time to let us know what you learned about your shift issue. Will for sure help people who experience the same issue in the future!

Glad ya got it sorted without having to pay out-the-nose for the dealer to work on it!
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 02:17 PM
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I guess i must be living right today. I have a 2016 teryx2 le and have been experiencing this same problem here in mid-Florida. Sand, water, and mud. Been having this same problem for the last six to nine months. Would not happen when anyone else was in the machine with me. I had a really strong one hit me last nite. Scared the hell out of me. Just today decided to post on here and your solution is just what I need. I recently replaced factory air box snorkel and My son said I may have restricted the linkage as it is pretty tight under that console with that additional hose. Thanks for the info, hope it works for me.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Hounddog,
If it sounds like a big bolt shearing off and giving a jolt in tranny at same time it probably is. If I were you ineould just have a quick look at where you shifter is rested when in N and H.
I should have added this also (thanks for reminding me). Take your shift while in N and push it to the right (dont pull it back at all. Just take the palm of your hand and push it right and give a teenie weenie jiggle. Then let go of it. If it comes back fine your ok for N
Then do same with H. Shift it to H...push to the right, little jiggle and let go. If it hits either edge (corner) on way back to H or N postion it is out of tolerance. That is in the service manual also.
Let me know how it goes.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 02:55 PM
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I plan on going after it in a couple of days. Thanks for the additional info and advice. At my age (75) don't want to tackle anything too technical or difficult. The worst part for me is getting that damned console off. Would appreciate a copy of that service manual if you have it in PDF.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2020, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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First off, your NEVER too old!
Regards to getting the console cowl off....there are times I felt like taking a saw to it and making multiple little pieces out of it. I would rather the dentist call and say he has had a cancelation and I go come to town now too get 3 root canals!
You can certainly have a copy of the service manual. Mine is for the 2016. But if I remeber correctly it is good for the 2015 to 2019. (someone may be able to correct me on this).
The file is huge! 855 pages. It can not me sent by email. But if you have DropBox I can send it that way.
Or, I have no issue to put it on a USB jump drive and I will mail it to you. I have a old one here that I will certainly send you no problem.
You can send me a PM (or email) on how you would like to get it.
My email...
[email protected]
I live in Newfoundland (Canada) and things take about 7 days to get to the US if you want it mailed.
Another tidbit of info. Print it off, trying to read it on a laptop or phone is impossible as with many tasks you have to go from one section to another quite often.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2020, 04:44 PM
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Trick is to crank that e brake up as high as ya can, that helps wiggle it out. Don't remove gearshift knob like I once tried to!! lol.

2018 Teryx 4 Camo. Bandits, 4500 winch, Flipper windshield, Boss stereo rocks, 2" spacers, VForce tuned! 2020 KRX 1000. Cab Kit, Ryco Street kit, Badlands 5k winch. 2020 KRX1000 in Green. Cab kit, skids, 5k badlands winch, Ryco street kit.
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