Need Help - Drive Problem - Kawasaki Teryx Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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Need Help - Drive Problem

Well, this is the first issue I have had with the Teryx.

A few days ago while climbing a small grade I heard a LARGE BANG. It sound as if a bolt had sheared. A good look over and nothing found.

Again, same day somewhat later same large bang. It sound as if the machine comes out of gear as it will jolt. As I made my way back home it did not occur again. Then again yesterday it happened several times. Large bang, bike make a lurch. It only happens on grade and under some strain. This morning the bang has now turned into a something similar to a ratcheting noise. The issue seems to be coming from directly under the passenger seat.

Can't get it into the dealer for two weeks and he is stumped as to what it can be.

Any guesses or opinions welcome. In the depths of winter here and a lot of plowing to do and I have half a winter's wood waiting to come out.

Sitting in the bike as I type this sulking! 🙂
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 12:15 PM
 
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I had something like what you described happen once when our 2018 was new. The issue was that the transmission did not shift even though the shifter was changed. After getting up some speed the transmission decided it was time to shift and the loud 'bang' occurred. Never happened again but I am sure that is what happened just by how it felt.

I assumed the issue was just because the Teryx was new and 'tight' and things needed to smooth-up. I have no idea if that is what caused it to happen but it has never happened since.

The fuel tank is under the passenger seat so It isn't coming from there though it might feel that way.

Can you remember if the issue you are having happened shortly after you shifted between low & high, or the other way around???
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks GrandMx,

I guess I should have added that it will not happen when I am in low. Only high in 4W...I run tracks so it must remain in 4W ofcourse.

I also should have been clearer, when I said pax seat I meant to say that side. It is diffiently coming from the lower right hand side.

One other issue I had that I forgot. Just before I put it in my garage I had to climb a small embankment. It the start to ratchet and "buck". I am wondering if it could possibly be in the clutch. A buddy of mine (rec vehicle mechanic) says that if it were a bearing or somewhere else in the tranny it would have shit the bed by now. Unfortunately he is quite a distance away and a diagnoses over the phone is impossible of course.
Thanks for the insight though.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 01:19 PM
 
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Once I was climbing a steep course sand hill. I let up too soon before I crested the top and the Teryx buried in the loose course sand. I was in 4-lock at the time. I got on it one time to see if it would make it over the top and I got the same kind of sound you described above! Just a loud terrible ratchety kind of sound! I figured it was the belt slipping as the Teryx tried to spin the tires but the traction was just too much and the tires wouldn't spin!

After shoveling a little behind all four tires I put the Teryx in reverse and easily backed back down the hill with no more sounds coming from the belt. I have no long term damage that I can tell as the 'buggy' runs normally with normal sounds.

I would guess your issue may be belt/clutch related???

Is there any info. available about how hard those tracks are on the belt/clutch vs. standard wheels?
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 01:58 PM
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Not sure if it's the same thing we had on a 2005 trans 4x4 mule but I've also heard the Teryx has this sometimes the shifter itself the bracket bolts get loose or the shifter bracket cracks or breaks like ours did we had to take it off & welded it bolted it back down then it worked wonders
Also shift cabel adjustment does the same thing it will pop in & out of gear because it's not allowing it to go all the way into gear

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks again. I am hoping it is as simple as the belt or clutch. I am taking off the cover in the morning as soon as the ice and snow melt off it.

Regarding the stress on the bike with tracks. I have never seen any published information. But from my experience after a few season of running them I can tell you with all certainty that it is hard on the bike. Your speed is cut almost in half and your gas consumption is cut in half. I do use my bike hard. I do not mean that I tear the crap out of it but 75% of the time I am plowing or towing a sleigh load of wood. It can push and pull like you would never believe and I know that I am wearing parts out much faster then normal. I have nearly 700 hours on the bike now and 9K (kilomteres) alot of it on tracks.
So, I guess I just keep looking for the issue. Belt and clutch being looked at in morning so I will let you know what I find. Thanks again!
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok Rocksoff.... I will be all over that in the morning. To be honest that is the first thing I thought of put the dealer said it was impossible.
But, as we know nothing is impossible. All this info is helping greatly. Thanks!
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
 
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Good morning guys,
This post will be a little long winded but I am hoping that anyone else who experiences this issue may see what I I found.
Firstly, my shop that I had so much faith in really #%## me off! This is there busy time of year with snowmobiles but they did not want to get involved for another month. I have been a loyal customer for a long time and dropped a lot of $$ there. They had never heard of the issue and their first response was that more then likely the engine would have to be pulled and the case split to get a look at the shift forks. I asked for a quote and they said a minimum of $2000.00. I nearly had a stroke!
At this point I said that I would have a run at it myself.
I stripped the bike completely and the first thing I got at was the primary and secondary clutch just to see if it was the primary make the noise. All was good there. I will also add that my belt had about 2500KM on it under some heavy plowing and towing. The belt was well within tolerances and even though I had purchased a new one since I was tearing the bike down I did not even bother to replace it.
Next move was over to the shifter itself. Everything looked fine (big mistake as I did not look close enough...more on that in a bit). I removed the shift shaft cover and the shift cam, bearings and shaft itself all looked fine. (Hmmm). The shift lever guide was removed and it appeared everything was fine there. At this point I was stumped. I put enough parts back on...gas tank and driver seat and took it out for a test ride to see if I could locate exactly were the sound was coming from. Drove in for half a hour....the bloody thing would not make the banging sound. WTF!
I did notice though that the shifting from H to L to R seemed much smoother then normal on clutch engagement as soon as I touch the accelerator. Hmmm.
Back in garage. I really dug into the maintenance manual and CAREFULLY this time read it from stem to stern. Well, there it was layed out quite simply. The tolerances on the shift cable are very low. 6MM off the shift lever guide wall when in N and 12MM off the shift lever guide wall when in H. I put the shift lever guide back on (without making adjustments) and found that when in H the shifter itself was bringing up on the shift lever guide wall. It was almost 20MM of the shifter lever guide wall when in N. I left it on and took it for a boogie and sure enough bang bang! Came in and took off shift lever guide again and another boogie and all good again. It was then (guess I am not to bright) that the first time I tried it with the shift lever guide off it was shifting into the position it should have been in and engaging fully.
Back in garage. Made at least three attempts and adjustments on the shift cable to right tolerances. Short test runs in between. Tolerances would vary on every ride. But on fourth adjustment it is now bang on. (No pun intended). The two large shift cable nuts need very little adjustment to throw it in or out of range.
As stated before I may shift a hundred times or more on somedays while plowing to towing wood.
Moral of the story I HAD STRETCHED THE SHIFT CABLE. (Phack)
Sorry again to be long winded but hey, it may help someone else.
BTW... I found I had cracked a rear CV dust cover while at it so that is a good thing I found that before a blew a bearing!! Now I have to take of the bloody track though and that is a pain in the ar$e.
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Last edited by RonnieMNL; 01-26-2020 at 02:51 AM.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 06:55 AM
 
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Ronnie, thanks very much for taking the time to let us know what you learned about your shift issue. Will for sure help people who experience the same issue in the future!

Glad ya got it sorted without having to pay out-the-nose for the dealer to work on it!
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 01:17 PM
 
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I guess i must be living right today. I have a 2016 teryx2 le and have been experiencing this same problem here in mid-Florida. Sand, water, and mud. Been having this same problem for the last six to nine months. Would not happen when anyone else was in the machine with me. I had a really strong one hit me last nite. Scared the hell out of me. Just today decided to post on here and your solution is just what I need. I recently replaced factory air box snorkel and My son said I may have restricted the linkage as it is pretty tight under that console with that additional hose. Thanks for the info, hope it works for me.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey Hounddog,
If it sounds like a big bolt shearing off and giving a jolt in tranny at same time it probably is. If I were you ineould just have a quick look at where you shifter is rested when in N and H.
I should have added this also (thanks for reminding me). Take your shift while in N and push it to the right (dont pull it back at all. Just take the palm of your hand and push it right and give a teenie weenie jiggle. Then let go of it. If it comes back fine your ok for N
Then do same with H. Shift it to H...push to the right, little jiggle and let go. If it hits either edge (corner) on way back to H or N postion it is out of tolerance. That is in the service manual also.
Let me know how it goes.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 01:55 PM
 
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I plan on going after it in a couple of days. Thanks for the additional info and advice. At my age (75) don't want to tackle anything too technical or difficult. The worst part for me is getting that damned console off. Would appreciate a copy of that service manual if you have it in PDF.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-28-2020, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hounddog,
First off, your NEVER too old!
Regards to getting the console cowl off....there are times I felt like taking a saw to it and making multiple little pieces out of it. I would rather the dentist call and say he has had a cancelation and I go come to town now too get 3 root canals!
You can certainly have a copy of the service manual. Mine is for the 2016. But if I remeber correctly it is good for the 2015 to 2019. (someone may be able to correct me on this).
The file is huge! 855 pages. It can not me sent by email. But if you have DropBox I can send it that way.
Or, I have no issue to put it on a USB jump drive and I will mail it to you. I have a old one here that I will certainly send you no problem.
You can send me a PM (or email) on how you would like to get it.
My email...
[email protected]
I live in Newfoundland (Canada) and things take about 7 days to get to the US if you want it mailed.
Another tidbit of info. Print it off, trying to read it on a laptop or phone is impossible as with many tasks you have to go from one section to another quite often.
Ronnie
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-28-2020, 03:44 PM
 
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Trick is to crank that e brake up as high as ya can, that helps wiggle it out. Don't remove gearshift knob like I once tried to!! lol.

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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Well, I quess we did not solve the issue by readjusting the cable linkage. It came back with a vengeance!
Had enough of it so I pulled the engine. We split the engine wide open to expose EVERY bearing, gear and anything else we could see. The entire guts of the engine were laid on the bench. Every and I mean ever little piece of the engine and tranny are in prestine shape. Even with the amount of engine time and kilometers on tbe bike using it quite hard there was not a thing to be found. One ring was a little burnt but that was it.
Now we have pulled both front and rear differential. But we suspect the problem does not lie there either as when we drain the oil there was no contamination to be found!! Getting a littlw frustrating to say the least as this is prime time to be slaying wood and enjoy the snow.

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 10:41 AM
 
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Have u looked at the ends of the front drive shaft splines ?? The splines can get wore and slip inside the yoke ends and make a horrible sound and catch and slip .oh and did u look at the helix in the secondary clutch maybe it has a broken tooth
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 07:49 PM
 
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Damn..., that's a lot of 'wrenchin'! I'm too old and lazy to every do that much work again (har har)!

Hope ya find your issue.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 12:28 PM
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ill add my help if i can , i have 14k miles on my 2012 teryx4 which is similar.

you said you run 4wd mostly, so does all 4 tires stop spinning when this bang happens or only front tires disengage?

answer a few questions and i might have the issue fixed for you, ill try at least. little experience of my own

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 02:29 PM
 
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I think he gave up the help lol
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-11-2020, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
 
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Gearhead,
The helix is in great shape. As I said everything in the tranny is too shelf.
We brought in a guy from a local shop who deals only in transmissions. Even though mostly automobiles we figured we have gone this far what the hell. He gave it a thorough going over and the only thing he found even using a micrometer was a small (and I mean small) amount of wear on the aft shift fork. But yet the shift gear drum was in perfect shape.
So, to add a little more to the ongoing saga. We started off once the engine was pulled and dropped the oil in both front and rear diff's and check for shavings or bloody big teeth falling through the drain plug. Nothing, nadda! At this point I decided to pull both diff's and split the cases. The tranny man told me that I was wasting my time. If there was damage that it would show in the oil we had screened.
(Well, by this time I had assembled quite a gathering of my buddies who kindly reminded me of the shit I give them about their Polaris', Bombardier and other makes. I have now changed the name on the gate at top.of our lane and placed a sold sign on our property in the hopes they will beleive I have left the lake).
While I now have nothing but a frame left but friend of a friend of a friend (grasping at straws) said that he did hear of a problem similar were a crack had developed in the frame around mid section and that it would become preloaded at time and give a huge "jolt" or cracking sound. I cleaned the frame to showroom condition and as expected nothing.
Wily, yes, I run the bike in 4 H as I run tracks all winter. When I have a huge load of timber in tow I will run it in DIFF LOCK,. It does NOT occur in DIFF LOCK. Also, even though it should remain in 4 H I took it on a hard surface and ran it in 2 wheel and could not duplicate the issue. It happens so quickly that one can not even tell if a wheel (track) would stop for a second. Or at least we can not see it.
Again, I am out of options.
My wife believes that I may have lost what was left of my mind as she has found my on multiple occasion sitting in the seat (well, sitting on the frame, seats have been thrown out in the snowbank) holding onto the steering column sobbing uncontrollably rubbing my hand up and down the dash saying goodbye to my dearest love. She has booked me a appointment with a psychologist for noon today. Maybe, the shrink can help me with the banging noise?

Last edited by RonnieMNL; 03-13-2020 at 02:19 AM.
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-11-2020, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
 
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BTW... a photo of my buddy cleaning up my yard a few days ago after a sprinlking of snow. Hence why I need my buggy back!





Tried to take the dog for a walk yesterday....he wont even look me in the eye!!


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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-13-2020, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hey Wily, you still about? In the process of putting the beast back together over the weekend. Still have not found the issue. And after having spent $2300.00 in parts now and $500.00 in labour hate to shove all the pieces on and have missed something. Thanks
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-13-2020, 08:34 AM
 
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Did u check the front drive shaft yokes were the spline part of the drive shaft goes into at the front diff and at the tranny ? If one is wore the splines will slip and grab under load .
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2020, 07:37 PM
 
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Second that

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandkidsMX View Post
I had something like what you described happen once when our 2018 was new. The issue was that the transmission did not shift even though the shifter was changed. After getting up some speed the transmission decided it was time to shift and the loud 'bang' occurred. Never happened again but I am sure that is what happened just by how it felt.

I assumed the issue was just because the Teryx was new and 'tight' and things needed to smooth-up. I have no idea if that is what caused it to happen but it has never happened since.

The fuel tank is under the passenger seat so It isn't coming from there though it might feel that way.

Can you remember if the issue you are having happened shortly after you shifted between low & high, or the other way around???
Had absolute same issue on first ride. Freightening bang at first and then a noise like a flailing bicycle chain hit machine from underneath
Went with fine tooth comb over every inch of new machine and traced back to sticking clutch as described above. Continued pussyfooting machine trough brake in and issues went away

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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-28-2020, 12:13 PM
 
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Ok I was just out with my son today on the trail drove for about 2hrs no issues. Almost home back on pavement going along about 30km a hour I decided to get into I floored it with in about a minute a load bang and jerk and then the rpms went up like it was in neutral and all u could hear was like a chain slipping WTF!!!! This is a 2018 t-4 with 1100 km . Any way I coasted to a stop and as it was coasting no noise but when I gave it a bit of throttle you could hear like a chain slipping. So when it finally stopped I put it in neutral and back into H and it drove fine into my yard I stopped put it in reverse and backed up no issue then put it back in H and it didn’t move and made the sound of a chain slipping which I know it’s the gears not quite meshed together so I pushed the shifter further towards H and it was good again. . But if u read one of my early post I have bin having a bad belt smell since around 600km dealer checked it and said belt was fine and no issues no I’m wandering if that was a indicator of this issue. Or is their something going on because a few of are having this happen maybe it will end up being a recall

Last edited by Gearhead; 03-28-2020 at 12:21 PM.
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