2017 Teryx 4 4" Stretch and 2" lift - Kawasaki Teryx Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-19-2020, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 12
2017 Teryx 4 4" Stretch and 2" lift

Hi Guys. New to the Forum. Been reading and lurking for a while but wanted to share my project. Its a 2017 Teryx 4 I picked up at an insurance auction. 72 hours and 719 miles. Former owner had went off trail and hit a stump. Left lower Control arm ripped from the mounting tabs on the lower frame rail. Lower frame rail had a slight twist. I couldn't pass it up.

I've always loved the Teryx 4 but found it a bit "stubby looking". Since I have frame work to do I may as well add a few inches to the wheel base. I'm doing a 4" frame stretch in the front and using 1.5" offset Control arms front and back. That will give me 7" of additional wheelbase. Also adding 2" of lift and going up from 26" tires to 30" Terra Masters on 14x7 all the way around.

Since I am rebuilding everything from the firewall forward and making new shock upper mounts (moving those 4" forward as well, I'm going to add 2" of lift in the new upper mounts. Fenders, hood, and radiator stay where they are. Front diff and control arm mounts move 4" forward. Turner cycles in Texas is stretching the prop shaft. Still have to figure out tie rods (since wheels are moving 4 + 1.5 = 5.5" forward) the old tie rods won't be long enough. The Super ATV +6 kit will be too long. So I may need to get some machined to fit.

Below are a few pics of the progress. Still need to add stiffeners and clean everything up before I work on the Control arm brackets. Last pics are of the control arms and shocks mocked up. Had to make sure all would fit under the headlight buckets. So far so good. More pics to come. Can't wait to spend Fathers day working on the new toy.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-20-2020, 05:00 AM
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 67
That looks like fun. Eager to see progress.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-22-2020, 09:46 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
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Interesting. I've seen several people stretch the back out but never the front. For the tierod issue can't you just move the steering rack forward with the diff? I know you would have to do something with the steering shaft (rack to steering wheel) but sounds easier than the tierods, plus wouldn't have custom parts in those locations. Not unheard of to bend tierods or need to replace them because they are worn, but never seen anybody break the steering shaft.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 12
Moving the Steering rack forward VS leaving in Place

Hi 6.2 Blazer. Thanks for the comments. I thought about moving the rack forward 4". The problem is there isn't enough room to move it. If you look at the pic that shows the 1.25" x 1.25" down tubes, there are 2 tubes right where the rack would need to be. I played around with how I could frame that area to allow room for the steering but it just was going to cause too many other issues. So I left the rack in its original position. I'm thinking of using the Super ATV tie rod upgrade kit that uses Heim Joints instead of Tie Rod Ends and just fabbing a longer Arm out of 1.25" DOM tubing. I'm waiting until the control arms are mounted and the rack is in place to see exactly how long the new arms need to be.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 11:27 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Edmonton, Alberta,Canadia
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I'd look into moving the rack forward with the diff and control arms. If the point where the old tie rods bolted to the knuckle are moved 5 1/2" forward(4" frame stretch and 1.5" offset arms) and the rack stays where I'd be worried about not being able to steer sharp. The inside of the wheel would probably hit the tie rod well before bottoming out the stops. Or maybe I'm picturing this all wrong?
Besides, extending a steering shaft would be simpler, granted you are able to mod the frame to fit the rack easy enough?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 12
Here are a few progress pics. Thanks for the recommendation of moving the rack forward. I had thought of it but maybe I need to reconsider. I'll play with it some tonight. It would be a hella tight squeeze but it would be so much better. Maybe I can figure out how to make it work.

If I were to leave it in original spot.... I've seen people fab "curved" tie rod arms on dune bugges and sand rails. In theory that could work here... if I fabbed some say 1-1/4" DOM tubing and built in a "S" shapped offset that made up for the 5.5" offset... that could work as well right?

I had to mock up the Hood, Headlight buckets and grill, and fender to fit up the new radiator mounts. Overall its lining up well.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 12:07 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Edmonton, Alberta,Canadia
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I could be overthinking that and you could be totally fine without moving it? But yeah there are curved tie rod ends, I had to replace one on the wifes Optima a few winters ago after she nailed a curb... Looked like this. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...nd,7428I'm sure you could find something that'd work. You've got more ambition and skill than I lol
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
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So I was able to start on the upper Control Arm brackets today and get 1 mocked up. This is about where everything is going to line up. I tried to see if I could move the steering rack forward but there isn't any room. If I leave it where it is this is the geometry I have (see pics). Looks like I need about another 1.5 to 2 inches of length on each side. I am fine with needing to fab longer tie rod arms... not sure if I will need the curve or not. The tires may clear by just making the extension. I am worried about getting the full tire angle without the curved tie rod arms. I can see the case where the rack is full extended and the tire won't reach its full angle. I'll guess I ll have to wait and see, Next step is lower Control arm mounting brackets and mock up the lower control arm. Rims and tires get here on Friday. Making progress.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Milwaukee
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Right front suspension mocked up

Got my mounting tabs made up and front right suspension mocked up. Everything going together as planned. No big surprises yet. I knew the front suspension and tires would be sticking out the front end. Thats the look I was going for. But it was a pleasant surprise to see just how far forward the control arms are. I have 31" Kanati Terra Masters on order. I can't wait to see how far out they stick,
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 07:10 PM
 
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Looks good!
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2020, 09:25 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 929
Looks good. Back to the tierods everything may very well work out. I would just look out for binding the tie rods at the rack end because of the compound angle, and the overall steering geometry. Also keep in mind that the tierods would be the strongest the straighter they are. Again, not saying it will not work or will explode and kill a bus full of nuns but rather just mentioning a few things I would double-check. Curved tierod ends will take care of binding up the joint but won't change the steering geometry.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2020, 09:43 AM
 
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Offset tie rod ends rather than curved?
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-28-2020, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Milwaukee
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Tie Rods and making Progress

I decided to leave the tie rod problem until the control arms are mounted and I have the exact length and angle needed. I bought the Super ATV tie rod kit that uses the Heim Joints instead of Normal tie rod ends. I may use that as the starting point and and either go with A curved of offset arm.

Made good progress this weekend. I finished fabbing my control arm brackets and got the ball joints and bushings in the offset Control Arms. I was able to get everything fit up for final measurements before tacking the control arms in place. So far everything is within 1/8 inch square. Once tacked I will remove the shocks and make sure the control arms pivot freely and the axles don't bind. The shock mounts were also moved forward 4". It was a lot to fit under the headlight buckets but it just clears everything.

I know I went overboard on the front structure with thickness and gussets.. (everything is 0.120 wall thickness VS OEM 0.09)... but I've always felt these frames were too thin walled for hard riding

This week's goals... receive rear offset Control Arms... fabricate rear 2" lift.... receive new tires... weld control arm brackets on and start to think about steering...

More pics to come
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