Cab Insulation (Rattle-Trap) Install. - Kawasaki Teryx Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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Cab Insulation (Rattle-Trap) Install.

Like many on here it didn't take me long to notice the heat and noise associated with the center mounted engine/trans/clutch/primary. However thanks to this board and the rest of the web there are no shortage of ideas at hand. I went with the RattleTrap XXL brand, common on Ebay. I'm not completely done yet but will be updating as I go.

So far I've done all the panels in the cabin. However I didn't bother with the outermost side covers. That would be the one's that cover the fuel tank and the compartment under the drivers seat to the outside. The factory "adhesive foil" and insulation was reinstalled over the RattleTrap where it was originally applied.

If anyone has any suggestions feel free to speak up.

Here is the progress so far.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 10:47 AM
 
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This is a great mod, i did this also. One thing i found interesting is a recent post about someone doing a 5.5 inch stretch on the rear axle, had to lengthen their drive shaft, and then had it balanced wich apparently cut down on the noise quite a bit, the stock drive shaft is not balanced causing vibration and noise. https://www.teryxforums.net/suspensio...14-teryx4.html
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 11:50 AM
 
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I used contact cement to attach foam to the under side of the roof. Helped cut the noise down.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benbot View Post
This is a great mod, i did this also. One thing i found interesting is a recent post about someone doing a 5.5 inch stretch on the rear axle, had to lengthen their drive shaft, and then had it balanced wich apparently cut down on the noise quite a bit, the stock drive shaft is not balanced causing vibration and noise. https://www.teryxforums.net/suspensio...14-teryx4.html
I had read that thread too. Has me contemplating taking both drive shafts to a shop and have them balanced; just to see what would happen. This is likely in my future.

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Originally Posted by DanWill View Post
I used contact cement to attach foam to the under side of the roof. Helped cut the noise down.
Yeah I thought about about some sort of headliner after I read how taking the roof off helped with the noise. What material, cement did you use? How is it holding up to the elements?
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'15 Teryx 4 Camo
Half Shield - Tusk Rear Window - Kawi Brush Guard
Tank Vent - Cat Del. - '13 Belt Intake
28'' Roc's on M21's - Trail Armor Skids/Sliders
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 02:49 PM
 
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Unfortunately I had the foam, it was packing from a shower door I bought online so I couldn't tell you were to get it. The cement was contact cement, you spread it on the foam and roof and let it get tacky, then put them together, just make sure the foam is where you want it because you won't get it back off. Have had no problems with it. Hosed it off many times, still attached.
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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Unfortunately I had the foam, it was packing from a shower door I bought online so I couldn't tell you were to get it. The cement was contact cement, you spread it on the foam and roof and let it get tacky, then put them together, just make sure the foam is where you want it because you won't get it back off. Have had no problems with it. Hosed it off many times, still attached.
Ok cool. I'll be experimenting with that if the results from this arent completely satisfactory.

Thanks,

'15 Teryx 4 Camo
Half Shield - Tusk Rear Window - Kawi Brush Guard
Tank Vent - Cat Del. - '13 Belt Intake
28'' Roc's on M21's - Trail Armor Skids/Sliders
Viper Wide Max 5000

Last edited by RexT; 11-09-2015 at 03:00 PM.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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Update:

Bolt on metal shrouds that wrap around from driver floor area, under the driver seat into the back seat.
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'15 Teryx 4 Camo
Half Shield - Tusk Rear Window - Kawi Brush Guard
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28'' Roc's on M21's - Trail Armor Skids/Sliders
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Update: Finished!

Here are the rest of the pics, just got it put back together. I ended up placing material on most of the upper intake plenum that was exposed. I really wanted to take it off completely and cover every inch, but I was unwilling to take dash off at this time, so I just did what was easy to get to.

I also did the belt exhaust, but not the intake as I'm going to switch it over to the old style that draws from up under the dash. I covered about half of the clutch primary cover, and put a couple pieces of material in other places on the clutch side of the case. While I was in there I did the tank vent mod with mini inline filter.

Now, I just fired it up. At idle, and with a couple light revs I don't think I can tell a difference, but I really didn't expect it to do much with that low of frequency. I cant wait to give a good test and see what it did for clutch/drivetrain noise.

Honestly, I expect more of a heat reduction than noise reduction, and that's fine. I was tired of the heated cup-holders. They have three layers on them now . As soon as I find a place to get good silicone rubber sheeting and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) as a reasonable price I will go back in with some of that.
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'15 Teryx 4 Camo
Half Shield - Tusk Rear Window - Kawi Brush Guard
Tank Vent - Cat Del. - '13 Belt Intake
28'' Roc's on M21's - Trail Armor Skids/Sliders
Viper Wide Max 5000

Last edited by RexT; 11-09-2015 at 03:39 PM.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 01:26 PM
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Great idea for anyone that the noise is bothering....
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 10:27 AM
 
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How hard and how long does it take to get all those covers off?


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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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How hard and how long does it take to get all those covers off?
Not bad, mostly just those plastic push rivets. Some bolts (self tapping) on the inside metal shields. Center console is the toughest, was for me anyway. Taking both seats out helped, at least on my '15.

'15 Teryx 4 Camo
Half Shield - Tusk Rear Window - Kawi Brush Guard
Tank Vent - Cat Del. - '13 Belt Intake
28'' Roc's on M21's - Trail Armor Skids/Sliders
Viper Wide Max 5000
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-29-2016, 06:30 AM
 
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Quote:
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How hard and how long does it take to get all those covers off?
Quick side note on that center console, if you don't have the parking brake absolutely all the way back the console will never come off found this out the hard way, mine was only one click from 100 percent engaged and it was just enough to ruin my day ha
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-29-2016, 08:00 AM
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I cant say this enough.....FLOORMATS!!! They make a huge difference in noise, I also Gorilla taped all my interior seams. My T4 is so quiet now compared to when I got it, and I didnt have to gut my interior to do it. Plus the heat factor now in 80 degree weather is sooooo much lower
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-29-2016, 08:34 AM
 
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I wish I could find a giant piece of foam I could cut down to fit under the driver's seat to fill that giant air space


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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-29-2016, 08:48 AM
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Mining belt. I made rear floor mats and a cover under each front seat. The drivers is 10" by 16" and slides out from seat frame to access my tools under it.
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-29-2016, 08:24 PM
 
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I got the reflective bubble wrap stuff from home Depot and wrapped the entire top of the engine and reinstalled the center hump.

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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 08:27 PM
 
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 12:37 PM
 
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How did that work chilly? After riding yesterday I plan on doing it before I go again


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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-19-2016, 06:05 AM
 
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I cant say this enough.....FLOORMATS!!! They make a huge difference in noise, I also Gorilla taped all my interior seams. My T4 is so quiet now compared to when I got it, and I didnt have to gut my interior to do it. Plus the heat factor now in 80 degree weather is sooooo much lower

Btrshoes, which seams did you tape up and is it still holding up with cutting down noise and heat? Sounds like a cheap easy fix.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-19-2016, 06:34 AM
 
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RexT, do you know how many sqft it took to cover all of the pieces that you did? That stuff is pretty expensive and I'm not sure how much I would need.

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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-19-2016, 06:36 AM
 
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How did that work chilly? After riding yesterday I plan on doing it before I go again


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Huge difference in noise and heat.

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
 
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RexT, do you know how many sqft it took to cover all of the pieces that you did? That stuff is pretty expensive and I'm not sure how much I would need.
I bought 50 Sq. ft. It was more than I needed, and I put it on everything. I just don't like running out in the middle of a project. I would think 25ft would do the console and probably some of the other panels.


While we're revisiting this; I'm making some floor mats soon. And some insulated covers for under the front seats.
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'15 Teryx 4 Camo
Half Shield - Tusk Rear Window - Kawi Brush Guard
Tank Vent - Cat Del. - '13 Belt Intake
28'' Roc's on M21's - Trail Armor Skids/Sliders
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-23-2016, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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UPDATE

A word of caution to anyone doing this. It seems that prolonged contact with elevated temperatures will cause the adhesive and the asphalt/rubber substrate to thin and run. I wrapped the belt exhaust in it, in effort to contain some of the heat and noise, and apparently the temps here are sufficient to cause the problems I have stated.

Over time (less than 1 year) the asphalt/rubber substrate had run down the belt exhaust outlet, pooled on the metal shield that is attached to the outlet, and had begun to drip onto the exhaust pipe that is directly underneath.

I have removed all of the Rattletrap from heat contact parts; mineral spirits works wonders here. The good news is, all of the other areas (console, and almost every panel in central cab) look fine, with no signs of heat damage. And hopefully I will no longer be getting that occasional whiff of rubber that had me somewhat concerned with my belt temps.

'15 Teryx 4 Camo
Half Shield - Tusk Rear Window - Kawi Brush Guard
Tank Vent - Cat Del. - '13 Belt Intake
28'' Roc's on M21's - Trail Armor Skids/Sliders
Viper Wide Max 5000

Last edited by RexT; 07-26-2016 at 10:03 PM.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 12:17 PM
 
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I know this thread is kinda old, but is there any concern of increasing engine temps, etc. when trying to reduce noise this way?
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 01:24 PM
 
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I just did the console with the newest material Fat Mat Mega Mat Butyl material. Super easy to work with and sticks like crazy. Put back factory pads on top. Used just under 10sq ft of material. Cut noise by maybe 30-40%. Noticeable improvement but not 100%.

I also had concerns adding this stuff to other places that might change some of the air cooling and trap heat in places that don't use engine cooling like the clutch and belt areas and exhaust. Is there a reason Kawasaki left gaps under the seats and around some of these parts for better cooling?

Last edited by Bandit; 11-05-2016 at 09:09 AM.
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