Need help fuse box install - Kawasaki Teryx Forum
Lighting, Stereo, and Electrical For discussion of lighting, stereo, and other electrical components

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
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Need help fuse box install

This might be long winded so I apologize but I'm not very knowledgeable with electrical work. I am wanting to install a fuse box for accessories to keep the wire clutter down and also protect my equipment.

1. In the 1st picture you will see the fuse box i am wanting to install or might just go with a 6 circuit depending on the advice I receive here. My question is do you guys run constant power from your battery to your fuse box or 12v acc key on power? What are the benefits of both?

2. Do I need to put an inline circuit breaker between the battery and new fuse box? Picture 2 is what I was thinking of using, what amp circuit breaker would be best for this application?

3. Do I need a circuit breaker between 12v acc power and new fuse block also?

4. If you guys are using 12v acc key on power to power your fuse box where are you pulling the power from? Are you splicing into one of the 12v power outlets or getting power from the fuse box? Picture 3 is of my OEM fuse block it has a spare 10amp 20amp and 30amp slots. Can I hook into one of these for my 12v acc power to run it to new fuse box? Are all these spare fuse spots acc power or constant power?

Thanks guys any info will help!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 09:51 AM
 
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Sorry for such a long winded response. Wiring is very challenging till you get a good grasp on it.

1) I personally run constant power to any accessory fuse/relay blocks but this is a personal preference thing. I also like to relay every circuit, while it is a bit overkill it keeps the load off the switch and they typically last a lot longer that way. This also allows me to run one bundle of "signal" wires to switch location from the relay box. That allows me to power the switches and switch lighting under the dash to key on, constant, headlights on, whatever. If I want an accessory on key on only power, then I just tap key on power to the switch and the signal wire makes its way back to the relay box under the hood. I personally would consider doing something like this instead of that fuse block you are looking at.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...4383.l4275.c10

2) yes and no, you could run a fuse but the circuit breaker is nice if you were to trip it, you can then sort out the issue and reset it instead of having to replace a fuse.

3) you should not need a circuit breaker for key on accessory power to control a relay or solenoid if you are choosing to power the entire fuse box off key on only. A fuse will do the trick, typically a relay or solenoid has such a low amperage draw for the turn on that its almost totally unnecessary to use a circuit breaker. Also if you are running a decent amount of accessories instead of a relay you probably want to run a continuous duty solenoid to power the fuse block.
https://www.zoro.com/white-rodgers-d...11/i/G1435716/

4) the spare spots on the fuse block just have spare fuses, there is a spot between the 30a main and 30a spare though that appears you could insert some packard connectors in. That would allow you to put a fuse in there to power the solenoid/relay if you wanted to do key on only power. At that point you would also want to replace one of the factory packard style connectors for key on wiring thats right there and add a jumper over to your new fuse. That would be the cleanest and long lasting way to do it IMO.


Another thing to consider is the grounding side of your accessories, its very nice to wire all your accessories positive and negative side to one location. You can add a ground bus and locate it right next to the relay box, this would allow you to have all your wires in the same location for positive and negative on any accessories. Another thing I like is if you are using relays then you only have to run your accessories to under the hood, no more having to go to the dash and route wires, etc.

https://www.electricalhub.com/blue-s...CABEgIPjfD_BwE


There is a really good write up on it that i am trying to find and will share if/when i find it.

2017 Kawasaki Teryx Base, 2015 Jeep Wrangler, 2005 Jeep Wrangler, 2003 Chevrolet Silverado RCSB LSX

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 09:56 AM
 
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Found it, so this is one that a guy was doing for a Toyota Tacoma, One of the best jobs I've seen done for a DIY setup that didn't cost a fortune. Its a really long read(6 post) but tons of good information in there.

DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 ? Introduction | Bodenzord

2017 Kawasaki Teryx Base, 2015 Jeep Wrangler, 2005 Jeep Wrangler, 2003 Chevrolet Silverado RCSB LSX

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for all the info! I sure appreciate all the help I can get. I will make sure to read over that post and hopefully learn some things. One question I have is, do I have to run an accessory to ground (ie light bar etc) even if the rocker switch supply the power to it is already grounded?
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 07:49 PM
 
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Need help fuse box install

I ground everything back to the battery myself via terminal block usually or straight to the battery if you’d like. I would not use the 12v accessory wire to power a fuse block. Not sure what size wire it is but I wouldn’t want to put to much of a load on it just for safety sake. I haven’t done much wiring on the Teryx but did a lot on my rzr. I run a main to a fuse/terminal block and start pulling power from there. I mainly use the 12v accessory wire to power the lighted switches on the dash. That fuse/relay box NeedAWD posted looks like the ticket. I always used automotive relays in 20 amp or 40 amp with inline fuses for each accessory. Wiring isn’t that bad. Just remember you need a positive and negative to power the relay (coil voltage) and use common and normally open for your accessories which makes and brakes the 12v positive. Most of the time you’ll never used normally closed side.


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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 07:05 AM
 
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I run the +12v supply to my fuse block through a relay. This prevents any high amp draw accessories from being run without the engine running. if you have accessories you want to run with engine off, bypass relay. If you have kids around or people who like to push buttons, the relay will keep something bad from happening.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 10:59 AM
 
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I run 12V power from the battery, through a relay, then to the fuse block. The relay is connected to a key-on power supply. In any case you want the 12V power to the fuse block coming directly from the battery, then it's personal preference whether you have a relay or not. Obviously no relay means the fuse block and all of the switches/accessories will always have power, and having the relay means the key has to be on for the accessories to work. I guess you could always have a combination with some accessories always powered and some only key on. Personally I like having them all require a key-on. This prevents accidentally leaving an accessory on in the garage and draining the battery, or having one of the kids flip a switch on when out in the garage (I always pull the key out and place it in a drawer just so somebody doesn't turn it on).

Probably a good idea to have a circuit breaker or large fuse between the battery and fuse block but I did not do this. It is power to a fuse block so another fuse is basically putting a fuse in front of a fuse. Again, probably a good idea but personally chose to not go that route.

For the grounds, the fuse block I have has one bank for 12V power and another bank for grounds. The ground side is the same concept as you can ground the fuse block to the battery or frame and then run each accessory to the ground side of the fuse block. Again, this is probably the best idea but I did not do this for all of my accessories. For example, I have some of the smaller LED cube lights (low power draw) on the back of the cage. I just run the single power wire from the fuse block/switch to them and then just ground each one on the cage close to where they are mounted. Maybe it's just me being lazy but it prevents running a second ground wire all the way back to the front of the machine where the fuse block is located.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the info! With all your guys help I feel like I'm confident now that I know what system to run.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 12:51 PM
 
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I personally chose a maxifuse between the battery and an 80 amp relay, then ran it all switched. I personally feel this is the safest way, Just my opinion as a retired master auto tech. best of luck whichever route you choose to take.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 05:43 PM
 
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Looking at adding a 20" LED light bar and some rear 4" square LEDs to my 2018 Teryx. Are there any extra accessory fuses wired into the factory fuse block that I can use?
Or do I (should I) need to add a new fuse block?
Thanks!
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 03:25 PM
 
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I’d go new fuse block. I like to see all accessories at one location.


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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 09:54 AM
 
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Ok, new fuse block it is! Thank you

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 09:58 AM
 
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here is what i ran for all my accessories it's a relay fuse panel all in one. and the 80 amp fuse block pictured above. and it fits perfectly in the glovebox.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 08:25 PM
 
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Good thread. Lots of good info.


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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 11:26 AM
 
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Damn that looks like a catalog picture!
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I'm jelly.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 05:29 PM
 
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I aslo ran a 100 amp relay on key to power my fuse block directly with the battery. CB would be nice in case of fuses popping but figured i could live without accessories as they are isolated from starting power and headlights. I currently am running 8 rock lights, 2 rear 4" cube LED lights, a usb charge port, 2 20" light bars, and a full rugged intercom and radio. I'm pretty anal about wiring and all my terminals are soldered on with shrink tube and tape for protection. Havent had any issues but i am going to be adding some whips and winch so I'm thinking a second battery run to my relay instead of the primary is going to be in the near future. You can find some simple schematics on line that will make it very easy to see and understand if this seems confusing. Hardest part is deciding where to mount fuse blocks and run wiring away from moving parts and heat sources but the teryx has enough empty spaces that its not to bad at all.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old Today, 02:01 PM
 
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When connecting some type of extra fuse block to wire extra lights, radio, etc. can the entire fuse block be controlled with one KEY ON power wire?

2016 Teryx LE
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