If you think of forward clearance a arms and the geometry with the steering rack, then add some stops in there you are losing more then just the thickness of the stop. The tie rod is mounted at nearly 90 degree perfect angle to the knuckle when you have your wheels pointed straight. This design maximizes equal left to right turn on the knuckle throughout the travel of the rack from left to right. If you move the steering knuckle forward you are actually drawing the tie rod at a forward angle and away from that 90 degree angle, you have to adjust out the tie rods to make the wheel point straight but that doesn't fix the angle that was introduced. Your knuckle will not have the same amount of turn for a given amount of change from the steering rack when that angle is introduced, it will also not be equal left and right which can cause issues with which tire is leading and is likely a partial cause for the lack of turning radius. Another thing to think about is when your front suspension droops or compresses that ideal length will change and you will see either toe in or toe out as your suspension cycles, which causes bump steer. This is the reason that guys like LTI and Magnum don't move the front arms forward on their long travel kits, its more pronounced on their setups not because of width but the increased wheel travel makes for a more drastic change in ideal length when the tie rod is not cycling in the same plane as the control arm.
2017 Kawasaki Teryx Base, 2015 Jeep Wrangler, 2005 Jeep Wrangler, 2003 Chevrolet Silverado RCSB LSX
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