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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I talked to my dealer about adding a 2” lift to my teryx 4. I was just making sure it wouldn’t affect warranty. He said it wouldn’t but a 2” lift would throw axles in different angle and wear splines early.

Has anyone ran into this??
 

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A lift will increase the angle the axle shaft CV joints operate at. The greater the angle then the greater the wear on the joints, and the greater the stress on them. I'm not saying they will explode and kill a bus full of nuns if you put a 2" lift on, or that most people will even notice the increased wear over the life of the vehicle, but it is there. Lots and lots of people run lifts on their Teryx ....some go thousands of miles without issues and some break shafts regularly. A lot depends on how you ride. But in general I would not be concerned with the lift.

For the warranty, technically Kawasaki can deny warranty coverage on certain parts if the failure may have been caused by the modification. Legally a manufacturer can't void the complete warranty on the machine because of one aftermarket part. For example they could easily deny warranty coverage on a broken axle because you had a lift, but there is no reason they would deny warranty coverage on something like the throttle cable breaking since it is not related to the lift in anyway. With that said, they won't automatically deny warranty claims even if they are related. I broke a front axle CV joint last year and Kawasaki agreed to replace it even knowing I had a lift on it. Also, if the dealer installs the parts on a new machine and then sells it to you then most likely you won't have warranty issues...if you take it back to that same dealer if you have an issue. Why? Because Kawasaki relies on the dealer to evaluate the warranty claim and provide information in order to make the decision. Either the dealer will leave out the part about how they installed a bunch of modifications before selling the machine, or Kawasaki is more generous in approving claims if they are dealer installed parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
6.2Blazer, thanks for the quick response. I've decided to add a 2" lift, just need to decide best route. Ive seen most add a spacer at the A-arm, but the one at SuperAtv adds at the top of the shock, is one better then the other?
 

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6.2Blazer, thanks for the quick response. I've decided to add a 2" lift, just need to decide best route. Ive seen most add a spacer at the A-arm, but the one at SuperAtv adds at the top of the shock, is one better then the other?
I ran the Highlifter kit, which has the brackets at the a-arms, for years with no problems. Only removed it because they were not needed anymore after installing Bandit shocks. The Brute Performance are also brackets at the a-arms but change the geometry some for what is reported as a slightly better ride....probably would have went with that one but it wasn't on the market yet when I purchased the HL version. Don't think there is anything wrong with the SuperATV version and a lot of people run it. About the only thing to consider is if you want to go to the SuperATV offset/high clearance a-arms in the future either the HL or BP lifts are not direct bolt on with those arms. Highlifter arms have the optional lift with them so it's not a big deal.
 

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The dealer and Blazer are correct. There is more stress on the axles with a lift. In fact, I'll bet if you go for a spirited run on the stock setup, take a heat gun to the shaft, then do the same run (with the same ambient temps) after the lift, and take a temp reading, it will be appreciably higher.

Kind of like using universal joints on a ratchet. As the angle increases, torsional stress and friction increase, and a universal joint used at more extreme angles is going to fail sooner than one used at far shallower angles.

Also along those same lines is your steering angle. While you may not be able to control the ride heigh axis of the CV joints, more often than not you can control the steering angle. Making a conscious effort to not give it too much torque (the skinny pedal) when your wheel is locked full left or right will go a long way to preserve your CV joints. How aggressive you are in tackling a hill climb is yet another factor. If your front wheels pop off the ground and land while you're on the gas, you're far more likely to snap them.

I have the BP lift and got it knowing I'll likely have to replace CV joints earlier than I would need to otherwise. The trade-off is worth it for me, I bought the Teryx as an adventure vehicle to take places I'm unwilling (due to potential damage) or unable (due to size) to take my truck to. I check the boots for tears and surrounding areas for any grease that may have leaked out and make sure the shaft itself doesn't have any excessive play after each outing.
 

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6.2 Blazer hit it right as did Jabroni. Ive ran the 2" highlifter lift since almost Day 1 and now with 1800 miles its still driving/performing great with zero issues or breakages. To me the extra height is worth it. I didnt buy this machine necessarily to get 20,000 miles out of it. I bought it to perform great and be reliable when I need it in the field. I also run 30" tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Spencer, with just the 2" lift was there any problems with tire rub, or did you change anything else?
 

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Spencer, with just the 2" lift was there any problems with tire rub, or did you change anything else?
Yes. to Run the 30's I removed my metal recall plates. I also heated up the plastic knub on the drivers side and gently pushed it in. Now it will only rub if Im turned full lock and trying to cross a deep ditch, even then it barely touches and causes no binding, but under normal trail riding its totally fine. With my machine loaded up with 500 lbs in the back the rear tires have rubbed the paint off the rear cage, but once again only under a heavy load and only over very rough terrain that causes the suspension to fully compress, nothing binds, just literally makes the cage shiny in one spot. Some guys find that unacceptable but for me it works awesome. I have not gone with aftermarket A-Arms because of some strength issues with them. I see LOTS more posts of Super ATV Arched Arms failing than I do factory A-Arms. Im in Alaska and frequently take my machine 20-40 miles into the backcountry where a major failure makes for a bad day so reliability are top priority for me.
 

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Yes. to Run the 30's I removed my metal recall plates. I also heated up the plastic knub on the drivers side and gently pushed it in. Now it will only rub if Im turned full lock and trying to cross a deep ditch, even then it barely touches and causes no binding, but under normal trail riding its totally fine. With my machine loaded up with 500 lbs in the back the rear tires have rubbed the paint off the rear cage, but once again only under a heavy load and only over very rough terrain that causes the suspension to fully compress, nothing binds, just literally makes the cage shiny in one spot. Some guys find that unacceptable but for me it works awesome. I have not gone with aftermarket A-Arms because of some strength issues with them. I see LOTS more posts of Super ATV Arched Arms failing than I do factory A-Arms. Im in Alaska and frequently take my machine 20-40 miles into the backcountry where a major failure makes for a bad day so reliability are top priority for me.
I promise you, if our arms are failing....there's some serious damage going on. Lol! They're as good as it gets. Plus...lifetime warranty. I saw a couple rears break a few years ago, but they're still waaay stronger than stock, and they've been beefed up even more.
 

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I promise you, if our arms are failing....there's some serious damage going on. Lol! They're as good as it gets. Plus...lifetime warranty. I saw a couple rears break a few years ago, but they're still waaay stronger than stock, and they've been beefed up even more.

Im sure the new ones are great. All im saying is that I rarely see people mention stock Arms breaking or failing and Ive seen plenty about SuperATV arms, Thats all
 

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2” lift issues

I promise you, if our arms are failing....there's some serious damage going on. Lol! They're as good as it gets. Plus...lifetime warranty. I saw a couple rears break a few years ago, but they're still waaay stronger than stock, and they've been beefed up even more.


The pivot blocks is where I see most of the issues with SuperAtv arms. I couldn’t keep my back ones from bending. Also seen several pull out from the a arm on several different brand machines. On the front I never had a issue except where the sway bar mounts to. I ended up disconnecting the sway bar permanently anyways. Water is also able to get inside the a arms. Poured water out of mine when I went to change the pivot blocks. I’m back on stock a arms now. Didn’t want to chance breaking one out on the trail. I will say this though, your customer service is top notch. Never had a issue getting one replaced and shipping is fast.
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The pivot blocks is where I see most of the issues with SuperAtv arms. I couldn’t keep my back ones from bending. Also seen several pull out from the a arm on several different brand machines. On the front I never had a issue except where the sway bar mounts to. I ended up disconnecting the sway bar permanently anyways. Water is also able to get inside the a arms. Poured water out of mine when I went to change the pivot blocks. I’m back on stock a arms now. Didn’t want to chance breaking one out on the trail. I will say this though, your customer service is top notch. Never had a issue getting one replaced and shipping is fast.
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Thanks Barefoot! And yeah, all of that has been changed to chromoly over the last few years. I remember a few years ago. Anything in the past year or two that's gone out has been the chromoly. :smile
 

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I'm interested in the SuperAtv 2" lift brackets. But I understand that I won't have to drill anything, but I will have to use 1.5" spacers on the rear to get the stock rims/tires to clear...anything else?
 

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I'm interested in the SuperAtv 2" lift brackets. But I understand that I won't have to drill anything, but I will have to use 1.5" spacers on the rear to get the stock rims/tires to clear...anything else?
That's it buddy! Just the spacers on the rear if you're running stock wheels. Everything else will bolt right up. We recommend running our tie rod kit with this, but its not required.
 
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