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So, as I continue this dilemma...my Teryx is now not wanting to start unless I hold the throttle partly open...So the situation is degrading...
That being said, I noticed something which just shows my lack of knowledge. When I turn the key on(not trying to start)...I noticed the pump runs for about 8 seconds and then shuts off. I assumed that there is a pressure (demand) type switch which shuts it off. That being said, I decided to use the pump to empty the tank. I put a hose on the outlet, into a can, and turned the key on. The pump ran for the same 8 seconds and shut off. Cycle the key,,,,same result. Thinking throttle position sensor...maybe,,,I tried it w/ the throttle mashed down. same result. So the stupid question is....what makes the pump shut off?...Apparently not pressure, not throttle position?
Thoughts?
 

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Barking up the wrong tree....There is no fuel pressure switch. Fuel pump runs then shuts off after a few seconds, 8 apparently. I'd assume there is a timer in the ecu to kill power to the pump relay. It will not run constantly with the key on unless it's actually running. You'll end up dead heading the pump and kill the pump eventually.

Holding throttle wide open may put it into clear flood mode and kill power to the injectors like it does in some cars. Not sure if it does on these things. Otherwise the gas pedal is not connected to the power supply to the fuel pump, it should be controlled by the ecu. If I'm on crack hopefully someone will correct me.

Is it safe to say you are just guessing at the fuel pump being a problem cause that seems to be a common go-to problem with these things or??? I'd just do a compression test if you haven't already, valves could be out of adjustment or have carbon build up holding them open. Could be a bunch of other things too, I'd do the simple tests first(COMPRESSION,FUEL PRESSURE) rather than assume something isn't working correctly without knowing how it works.
 

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Hey just my 2 cents if it helps. I really don’t think it’s fuel pump related. I’ve checked fuel pressure by installing a guage and running it till it bogs. Fuel pressure seems to stay well above 40 psi. Another member has tried changing fuel pump as well with no result. I’m not a mechanic but I am leaning towards throttle position sensor (you need to replace entire throttle body), or oxygen sensor. (I recently had a check engine light come on for code 33 but it’s gone and hasn’t come back and my bogging issue is constant). I have done everything else except the valves. so maybe I will try that too. Thing is the motor works fine for the first 5-10 mins before the issue starts which makes me think o2 sensor. It has been happening now so long I can feel it coming on and minimize the bog by feathering the gas pedal while driving and this makes be think throttle position sensor. I Just haven’t got into it yet. I tried bypassing my seatbelt wire but mines a 2016 and they didn’t start the seat belt limiter until 2017. So it did nothing. As far as I can tell that wire just lights up seatbelt light on dash. I will definitely post back if I ever figure this out. It’s very frustrating.
 

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My 2013 T4 is acting very similar as it will bog down as if it isn't getting fuel at all. But when mine starts doing this it gradually builds until I can just barley give any throttle at all. I have tried feathering the pedal, nothing. I have cleaned fuel pump, changed filter, cleaned the tank, nothing. I then read about the emergency brake switch that will retard the motor if it is engaged and don't know if that is my problem. But I can reset the machine by turning it off and starting it up after 10 seconds or so and it runs fine for a few minutes. So I'm guessing I have something electrical going on but have no idea where to start. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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I know this is an older post that was just revived a month ago. But this issue plagued me for a while also. I ended up watching a YouTube video that explained this fix, I ended up doing it on the trail in a pinch. (Not recommended)
There is a screen filter in the middle of the fuel pump assembly. From my experience it cannot be replaced or cleaned. While on the trail I used a bent test light point to break through that screen. That was 2000 miles ago. I have never had a problem since. I realize the problems not having this can cause but in theory if you have a good filter on the bottom pick up, debris shouldn’t be getting to that point anyway.
 

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I know this is an older post that was just revived a month ago. But this issue plagued me for a while also. I ended up watching a YouTube video that explained this fix, I ended up doing it on the trail in a pinch. (Not recommended)
There is a screen filter in the middle of the fuel pump assembly. From my experience it cannot be replaced or cleaned. While on the trail I used a bent test light point to break through that screen. That was 2000 miles ago. I have never had a problem since. I realize the problems not having this can cause but in theory if you have a good filter on the bottom pick up, debris shouldn’t be getting to that point anyway.
[/QUOTE

I did this a while back, but I saw no improvement. Definitely worth a try for those who haven’t. The symptoms of this issue are really similar to a fuel pump problem. But my fuel pressure seems to be fine.
 

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So I decided to try new coils to see if it would fix the bog, but it was a no go. I also changed out the plugs for news ones since I was in there. The used ones were fairly black so I'm leaning towards fuel or air. I replaced the fuel filter already along with a new air filter, but none of it help.
So now I'm thinking oxygen sensor. I decided to unplug it and take it for a quick rip. Bog was GONE!!!! Plugged it back in and there it was again. Will be ordering a new sensor tomorrow hoping that this is the fix. Figured I'd share my findings and hope someone else can try this and have the same outcome that I did.

Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
 

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Sounds like you are going down the right road now. I missed this thread when it started but would have looked at the O2 sensor based on the symptoms. Generally when a machine is cold and first started it is running in a closed loop mode, meaning that it is running in a "pre-programmed" set of parameters. Once warmed up the ECM starts looking at the O2 sensor inputs and adjusts the air fuel ratio based on that. If the O2 sensor is providing a "bad" reading the ECM can demand either way too little or too much fuel. So if the machine runs fines when you first start it up but after a few minutes it starts running bad that is a possible cause. Also keep in mind that in my experience working on cars and O2 sensors, a large percentage of the time it's not the actual O2 sensor but rather a loose connector or bad wiring....so if a new O2 sensor doesn't solve the problem don't immediately start looking elsewhere.
 

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Thanks for the reply.
I was actually speaking with a kawasaki tech yesterday and he doesn't feel it's the o2 sensor. He said that by unplugging the sensor actually keeps it in that closed loop and is likely why the bog is gone. He's leaning more towards the water temp sensor thinking it may be giving a cooler reading and therefore delivering more fuel when it is in fact at operating temp.
I have one on order and will report back my findings once installed.

Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for the reply.
I was actually speaking with a kawasaki tech yesterday and he doesn't feel it's the o2 sensor. He said that by unplugging the sensor actually keeps it in that closed loop and is likely why the bog is gone. He's leaning more towards the water temp sensor thinking it may be giving a cooler reading and therefore delivering more fuel when it is in fact at operating temp.
I have one on order and will report back my findings once installed.

Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
I don't understand that reasoning at all. If the O2 sensor is plugged in and providing a signal to the ECM it runs poorly, but when you unplug the O2 sensor and take away the signal it provides to the ECM it runs fine. If it was the temp sensor causing a bad reading and there misfueling, I would suspect it would run WORSE when you unplugged the O2 sensor. That is because while the temp sensor would be saying the wrong thing (for example if it was sensing cold it would be giving more fuel ie. like a choke) and causing it to run rich, the O2 sensor would be sensing it was rich and demanding less fuel.
 

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Well it turns out it was in fact the oxygen sensor that was the problem, so far. I only ran it up and down the neighbors 1/2 a mile long driveway for a few loops and seems to be back to normal. I was able to get it to do it on his driveway before I replaced it so feeling very confident the problem is solved. Hopefully this will help anyone out there with the same issue.

Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
 

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Well it turns out it was in fact the oxygen sensor that was the problem, so far. I only ran it up and down the neighbors 1/2 a mile long driveway for a few loops and seems to be back to normal. I was able to get it to do it on his driveway before I replaced it so feeling very confident the problem is solved. Hopefully this will help anyone out there with the same issue.

Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
So it's been a month since you posted a new Oxygen Sensor had seemed to of solved the problem. I was just wondering if the problem had ever returned or not since then?
 
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