Kawasaki Teryx Forum banner

23 teryx 4 s 2 inch lift

780 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  6.2Blazer
HAS ANYONE FOUND A 2 INCH LIFT KIT TO FIT A 23 TERYX4 S , NEED A LITTLE MORE GROUND CLEARANCE. MOST SAY THEY WONT FIT WITH FACTORY ARCHED A ARMS.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
HAS ANYONE FOUND A 2 INCH LIFT KIT TO FIT A 23 TERYX4 S , NEED A LITTLE MORE GROUND CLEARANCE. MOST SAY THEY WONT FIT WITH FACTORY ARCHED A ARMS.
Did you check out the Brute Performance kit? I just installed one on my 22 Teryx S
Brute Performance is the only place I know of that offers a lift kit for the S models.

In regards to the comments about not fitting because of the factory arched arms, they are getting some things confused. On regular Teryx models if you installed SuperATV arched and offset arms than the common Highlifter or other lift brackets kits that go on the arms would not fit. That is simply because SuperATV has a different style and layout of shocks mounts on their arms that are different enough from the brackets on the stock arms that most lift brackets will not bolt up. The fact that the S model arms are arched has absolutely nothing to do with not being able to do a lift on them, it's simply because the shock mounting brackets on the S model arms are designed differently and thus brackets designed for a stock non-S model don't fit.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I don't like the brute performance one. I think the kits that attach to the a-arm do not look very good. I stopped waiting for someone to make a bracket lift that attaches to the frame and made my own.
I don't like the brute performance one. I think the kits that attach to the a-arm do not look very good. I stopped waiting for someone to make a bracket lift that attaches to the frame and made my own.
How is it working? Do you have any pics? I know one of the problems companies were having with making a lift for the S model is that the tolerances of the axle travel were tighter with the longer arms, so they were getting axle binding issues with a frame bracket - particularly at full droop I believe.
How is it working? Do you have any pics? I know one of the problems companies were having with making a lift for the S model is that the tolerances of the axle travel were tighter with the longer arms, so they were getting axle binding issues with a frame bracket - particularly at full droop I believe.
It works fine. I'm not sure why it's understood that the longer axles case binding when you lift these. Geometry tells me that the longer the axles and a-arms the less angle is needed to achieve the same amount of lift than that of a shorter axle/a-arm bike. 2 inches of lift on a bike with shorter axles and arms should cause more binding than one with longer axles and arms. Unless the CV cups are different from an S model to a T4, there should be no binding issues. This is one of the reasons all big lift kits come with longer axles and arms. To make it that big and still have operational axle angles, they need to be longer. I'll get some pics when I get home.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
It works fine. I'm not sure why it's understood that the longer axles case binding when you lift these. Geometry tells me that the longer the axles and a-arms the less angle is needed to achieve the same amount of lift than that of a shorter axle/a-arm bike. 2 inches of lift on a bike with shorter axles and arms should cause more binding than one with longer axles and arms. Unless the CV cups are different from an S model to a T4, there should be no binding issues. This is one of the reasons all big lift kits come with longer axles and arms. To make it that big and still have operational axle angles, they need to be longer. I'll get some pics when I get home.
I haven't messed with an S model in person, but there was a company rep that made a statement that they had issues with the axles binding under full droop with a lift kit. That is the only thing I have seen or heard of that would cause the binding comments some people make. Not saying it true or false, or if there is more to the story.
Just as mentioned longer axles themselves do not cause binding and they should have more travel as compared to shorter axles. The potential issue would be if the rest of the suspension can droop out further than what the axles can handle. On a non-S Teryx the shocks are what limits the downward travel. When you put lift brackets on the shock mounts you are essentially letting the shocks droop more, which again could potentially put the axles in a bind.
See less See more
On a non-S Teryx the shocks are what limits the downward travel. When you put lift brackets on the shock mounts you are essentially letting the shocks droop more, which again could potentially put the axles in a bind.
That could explain it. If the T4 shocks are shorter then it would stop downward travel before binding happens. In my mind they would have to be considerably shorter in order to not bind with a lift bracket. I don't have a T4 to measure so idk. I do know my S has been working fine.
Green Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Coil spring

Motor vehicle Green Coil spring Engineering Gas

Green Motor vehicle Coil spring Suspension Gas

Motor vehicle Green Gas Auto part Suspension
See less See more
4
That could explain it. If the T4 shocks are shorter then it would stop downward travel before binding happens. In my mind they would have to be considerably shorter in order to not bind with a lift bracket. I don't have a T4 to measure so idk. I do know my S has been working fine.
On my non-S Teryx4 the factory shocks would stop the overall suspension from drooping to the point it bound up. Basically meaning if you raised the tires off the ground and unbolted the shock it would then allow the suspension to droop out even more. Can't remember the exact distance but probably at least an inch or so. Even with the slightly longer extended length aftermarket shocks they will droop out before the suspensions gets in a bind. If you raise the tires off the ground and unbolt the shocks the suspension will droop out maybe another 1/2" inch before it binds. The CV axles and/or the tierods on the front are typically what limits droop travel. There is a chance the a-arm mounts could also limit how far it droops.

For other people out there, the easy way to check for axle/CV joint binding is to simply jack the wheels off ground and see if you can still spin the tires freely. For the front I would also turn the wheels all the way to the right and left and see if they still spin freely. If the wheels still spin, my next biggest concern would be the tierods in the front as they can only take so much angle.
See less See more
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top