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· Work blows, I wanna ride !!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
..by myself for the first time !! It only took two times to get it right.

The first time I adjusted them to the max setting, 15 & 25 figuring it would allow for a bit more time before having to do them again. That theory didn't work real well since I have never adjusted valves before, because when I fired it up the valves made all kinds of racket.

So on my second go round I set them to the minimum and double checking with the max to make sure I didn't go to big. That worked out well having gotten it right the second time :pint::pint:

The other thing I did the second time around was modify the feeler gauges I bought. I bought the larger ones that are slightly bent at the end. After cussing my head off the first time at the front cylinder vales I decided there had to be an easier way. What I did was straighten it out, then I bent it to about 90 degrees about 1/4 from the end making it easier to get in the small space. Then I bent the top about 1" down from the end , bending it the opposite direction, making it much easier to check the front cylinder, especially around the stupid shift tower.

So now my question is how often must I adjust the valves?? I never had a problem in 198 hrs. then suddenly they went out of adjustment & the stupid thing wouldn't start. I decided to check them again after about 45 hours, & the damn intakes had no room to stick a gauge in there.

So whats the deal ?? Why are the valves requiring adjustment now?? Or is it just normal wear & tear. If so, how long until I should replace the stupid valves to something better that requires little to no maintenance.
 

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I have no idea but this is good info for me too so I'm subscribing. I have less than 30 hours but I'll need to know before long.
 

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Valves

Had the same issue on my CRF 450, the shortened life of the second valve adjustment was an indication that the valve seats in the head going away.
Had to pull the heads and replace the seats, valves and seals.
How long did it take to get the Teryx apart enough to do the valve adjustment ??
FST1
 

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Weer exhaust valves tight upon initial inspection??

I beleive they tighten up due to valve seat wear, ours will need head work sometime in the future due to that as well. Just buy poflos heads LOL
 

· Work blows, I wanna ride !!
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
How long did it take to get the Teryx apart enough to do the valve adjustment ??
FST1
Thats a sort of tough question to answer, since I already had it torn apart to replace the clutch belt. Then I couldn't find the inspection port for the timing mark (don't ask).

I'd say it probably takes a good 30-45 minutes to pull the necessary parts to start adjusting the valves.

Weer exhaust valves tight upon initial inspection??

I beleive they tighten up due to valve seat wear, ours will need head work sometime in the future due to that as well. Just buy poflos heads LOL
The ex. seemed to be pretty close. Don't think those heads will work on my stocker.

They do look perty though.
 

· El Moderator
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Uh...adjusted the rear cylinder this afternoon, took a look at the front and put off till tomorrow. Beer time! :pint:

I did find mine were out (too tight), once I adjusted the rear it seemed to turn over about 50% better. Not looking forward to adjusting the front!
 

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Uh...adjusted the rear cylinder this afternoon, took a look at the front and put off till tomorrow. Beer time! :pint:

I did find mine were out (too tight), once I adjusted the rear it seemed to turn over about 50% better. Not looking forward to adjusting the front!
Bob, how much of the "stuff" do you have to take off to get access to check/adjust the valves. Might have to put this on the summer "to do" list.
 

· El Moderator
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Bob, how much of the "stuff" do you have to take off to get access to check/adjust the valves. Might have to put this on the summer "to do" list.
I took the seats, engine cover and front cover (one that run the width). Not too bad, lots of push pins! The front cylinder looks to be a lot of fun to get to!
 

· Work blows, I wanna ride !!
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's not hard, it just takes time to access. I hate the stupid push pins, what a dumb ass design.

Gotta remove the seats, the tower cover & the kick panel. The rear valves are easy to get to, after you remove the airbox.
 

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just did mine again last night. my third time. if you just pull the coolant hose off right above the front cylinder intake valves you can reach em without taking off carbs or anything else. i actually set mine just a hair loose this time. ive heard that helps cool the valve by letting it sit on the head a tad longer, but they make just a lil noise as of now. figure that will go away as they get tight again. anybody see any downside to this that im missing? fired up great and runs fine.
 

· El Moderator
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i actually set mine just a hair loose this time. ive heard that helps cool the valve by letting it sit on the head a tad longer, but they make just a lil noise as of now. figure that will go away as they get tight again. anybody see any downside to this that im missing? fired up great and runs fine.
I did the same thing, I set them at 0.13 and 0.23, figured right in the middle and give them room to tighten up.
 

· El Moderator
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Finished up the front cylinder today...GREAT tip pulling the cooling hose off the pump!

WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I was having a tough time cold starting, now she turn right over. Very happy! :pepper1:
 

· Work blows, I wanna ride !!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finished up the front cylinder today...GREAT tip pulling the cooling hose off the pump!

WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I was having a tough time cold starting, now she turn right over. Very happy! :pepper1:
The only "issue" with pulling the hose is, is having to bleed the coolant though (?). And its a pita to get to the rad cap.

I just ran a zip tye around the hose to pull it out of the way while fiddling with the valves. Just don't forget to take it off when you are done!

Sent via my Droid X....
God Bless America, Land of the free BECAUSE of the brave.
 

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No need to bleed the system. Ive done it twice now using this method. The hose is very high in the system you lose very little coolant as the hose isnt full of fluid when cold.
 

· El Moderator
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I just opened up the bleed screw at the pump...so far so good!
 

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The only "issue" with pulling the hose is, is having to bleed the coolant though (?). And its a pita to get to the rad cap.

I just ran a zip tye around the hose to pull it out of the way while fiddling with the valves. Just don't forget to take it off when you are done!

Sent via my Droid X....
God Bless America, Land of the free BECAUSE of the brave.
Do you have to bleed the coolant after pulling that hose? I have done this 3 times now and it seems to just suck in more coolant from the reservoir to replace it...
 

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2021 Teryx4 LE S
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I have a 2020 Teryx with 2200 miles on it and I haven't had the valves checked yet, but I plan on it this summer. My machine starts fine and runs fine, so I'm assuming valves are ok?
Most likely. I did my '21 at just over 2,000 kms and they didn't need anything. Ended up just being a good exercise in finding out how to get at everything.
 
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