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Filsville Swamp Slinger
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Have you done it yet??????????

I'm looking for some personal experience with Big Bore kits.

If anyone has done any engine upgrades, I'd like to hear

what kit you installed?

did you change the impeller and or fan?

and if there was anything you'd do differently if you did it again.

Any info from dealers would be welcome, but I really want to hear form people that have already done this work.

Thanks in advance.
 

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FST kit...best bang for the buck...
Dasa Racing in Riverside did the work...but I also recommend LTI in Anaheim...
I recommend you buy the radiator and/or at least a oil cooler to help with the increased heat of the added cc's...
I kept the stock valves but had the heads ported...DASA and I have built several motors this way and it seems to be a reliable way to build a engine. Spent a considerable amount of time on the dyno to get it just right. Also added the DASA exhaust, Dalton clutch & clutch hat. Don't know if I would try anything different as it has held up for 3 season's now...very happy with it...

Total cost was around $2000 by the time it was said and done...
 

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FST kit...best bang for the buck...
Dasa Racing in Riverside did the work...but I also recommend LTI in Anaheim...
I recommend you buy the radiator and/or at least a oil cooler to help with the increased heat of the added cc's...
I kept the stock valves but had the heads ported...DASA and I have built several motors this way and it seems to be a reliable way to build a engine. Spent a considerable amount of time on the dyno to get it just right. Also added the DASA exhaust, Dalton clutch & clutch hat. Don't know if I would try anything different as it has held up for 3 season's now...very happy with it...

Total cost was around $2000 by the time it was said and done...
what he said. i went with the dasa kit and had them build it. stock valves with port and polish... i built an oil cooler for mine, and a multipass radiator. i run the muzzy exhaust and vfj clutch. going on second season now... fast and reliable. as far as jims $2000 price above goes.... that is just for the motor and motor work. clutch, exhaust, cdi, impeller, radiator, and oil cooler are extra!
 

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I'm looking for some personal experience with Big Bore kits.

If anyone has done any engine upgrades, I'd like to hear
what kit you bought,
how much it cost,
how much work it was to install the kit
and if there was anything you'd do differently if you did it again.

Any info from dealers would be welcome, but I really want to hear form people that have already done this work.

Thanks in advance.
I would say Sandjunkie is pretty close but final cost depends on who does your install. The FST 840 is reliable but you need to do the other extra's to help keep it cool. Radiator, water impeller & oil cooler are a must IMO. Another option is to stay with the stock bore and just upgrade to HC pistons & cams and include some head work, ie valves & porting. It just depends how deep into your wallet you are willing to go.
 

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Filsville Swamp Slinger
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I bought a Muzzy kit. It's all installed, and I'm just getting the motor in today. I should be able to start my baby tomorrow. HEEHAW!

It's been a long road though... I didn't know my bottom end was toasted as well, so I'm WAY over budget.

It better knock my socks off.
 

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Have a 2010 840 built by Benchmark and just the Muzzy impeller and a Benchmark oil cooler the car flat out rips. I have no problems with oil or coolant temps. Make sure you put in ARP studs and a catch can other than that you should be done.
 

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LTI did my BBK and it has ran strong for 2 seasons now I did their oil cooler and siphon break and added a water temp gauge it never see's above 205
 

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Filsville Swamp Slinger
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, it's been damn near a year since it blew my stock engine. Took me a long time to get the motor done up and installed. I drove for 50 miles and blew the head gasket.

Turns out the surface of the cylinder was not cleaned up very well when it was refurbished.

Cost me an additional $1000 buck and three weeks of riding time, but I've got her back again.

I hope the head gasket thing was only a one time thing. If this turns out to be an ongoing thing, I won't be able to afford to fix it again.
 

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LTI did my BBK and it has ran strong for 2 seasons now I did their oil cooler and siphon break and added a water temp gauge it never see's above 205
Hi J, if LTI built your motor you probably have one of our kits (must be a std bore kit if you need a catch can) and water pump. Our water pump is a must for you southern guys as it double's the coolant flow and really keeps the temps down and constant.
Thanks,
Ray
 

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Well, it's been damn near a year since it blew my stock engine. Took me a long time to get the motor done up and installed. I drove for 50 miles and blew the head gasket.

Turns out the surface of the cylinder was not cleaned up very well when it was refurbished.

Cost me an additional $1000 buck and three weeks of riding time, but I've got her back again.

I hope the head gasket thing was only a one time thing. If this turns out to be an ongoing thing, I won't be able to afford to fix it again.
If your having the heads and cylinders machined with a face mill, they have to be MIRROR finish. Ideally they should be machined in a lathe, then the machine marks help hold the gasket instead of creating a path for pressure to leak.
If your making any power with a plated 840, you'll want to have them O ringed as the cylinder flex's a lot and when the cylinder flex's out, it pulls the gaskets surface of the cylinder away from the head.
Ray
 

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Filsville Swamp Slinger
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I bought an engine kit from Muzzy's. The cylinders were recycled, bored, and nickiciled. I dropped my engine and the kit off at a local builder, (typically a snowmobile shop).

They (nor I) had any reason to believe that the cylinders would need any further prep after spending a grand for them.

The kit came with kermetic gaskets. They have some sort of coating.

My Builder mentioned that he is familiar with "O ringed" cylinders. I wish Muzzys used that technology. Unfortunately they don't.

I don't know what kind of power I'm making. It's got a fair bit more torque than it used to with just the duel exhaust and MSD.

I hope it keeps a seal this time. I had the cylinders and the heads sanded down and got new gaskets.
 

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I bought an engine kit from Muzzy's. The cylinders were recycled, bored, and nickiciled. I dropped my engine and the kit off at a local builder, (typically a snowmobile shop).

They (nor I) had any reason to believe that the cylinders would need any further prep after spending a grand for them.

The kit came with kermetic gaskets. They have some sort of coating.

My Builder mentioned that he is familiar with "O ringed" cylinders. I wish Muzzys used that technology. Unfortunately they don't.

I don't know what kind of power I'm making. It's got a fair bit more torque than it used to with just the duel exhaust and MSD.

I hope it keeps a seal this time. I had the cylinders and the heads sanded down and got new gaskets.
The problem might not have been the cylinders, but your heads. Did you have the heads cut?
I wouldn't sand them down, you can check them that way on a surface plate, just a couple rubs. If you see full contact then you should be good, if you have to sand them flat, you won't be.
Ray
 

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It would be expected that for that kind of money it would be a true flat surface......cant believe a reputable name like muzzys would send out an inferior product.Good luck with the install
 

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It would be expected that for that kind of money it would be a true flat surface......cant believe a reputable name like muzzys would send out an inferior product.Good luck with the install
I'm sure the cylinders would have had a good finish coming from Muzzy, like I said it was probably the heads. Even stock machines, the Alum cylinder move's around, you have 1200-1600F temps in there and an alum cylinder expands over 0.006" at 450F and then you have cylinder pressure pushing out on the alum cylinder. As the cylinder flex's, so does the deck of the cylinder at the fire ring and it actually causes fretting on the head at the fire ring. If you see any sign of that, they need to be machined.
Then when you machine them, if they are just face milled and you can feel the machine marks with your finger nail, it won't work, or not for long anyway.
When your making 50-70HP, you can get away with a lot, when your making 100-150HP, thing's have to be pretty good, when your making 150-300HP they have the be PERFECT.
Ray
 

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Filsville Swamp Slinger
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131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
They heads were decked before they were install the firs time. They were true.

The Cylinders are not prepped at Muzzys. They are done by an outside company that recycles cylinders of all makes for several manufacturers. As much as Muzzys is a reputable company, they don't do all their own work.

The cylinder deck was simply not cleaned up well. If you look at the photos, you can see a small ridge, where the old gaskets bonded with the cylinders from the original application. When the engine kit was installed, the cylinder deck was sandblasted, and you couldn't tell that there was an issue.

Unfortunately, when you buy a kit from Muzzys, there are disclaimers in every package stating the Muzzys takes no responsibility for any product failures. I understand that this is to protect themselves from less than talented customers installing their products.

I'm pretty sure I'm not getting any better than 75 HP. But, I've really go no idea.
 

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They heads were decked before they were install the firs time. They were true.

The Cylinders are not prepped at Muzzys. They are done by an outside company that recycles cylinders of all makes for several manufacturers. As much as Muzzys is a reputable company, they don't do all their own work.

The cylinder deck was simply not cleaned up well. If you look at the photos, you can see a small ridge, where the old gaskets bonded with the cylinders from the original application. When the engine kit was installed, the cylinder deck was sandblasted, and you couldn't tell that there was an issue.

Unfortunately, when you buy a kit from Muzzys, there are disclaimers in every package stating the Muzzys takes no responsibility for any product failures. I understand that this is to protect themselves from less than talented customers installing their products.

I'm pretty sure I'm not getting any better than 75 HP. But, I've really go no idea.
Yes I know they don't do the cylinders in house, only a few places in NA that do cylinder plating but I would think Muzzy would use one of the best like mel-Tech but if they just had a blasted finish, it could have been the problem but still could be the finish on the heads. They have to be almost glass smooth if face milled.
You should be better then 75HP, just a Muzzy pro and MSD with good maps will get you low to mid 60's and even the cheaper std bore and 840 kits out there will get you 80+HP.
If you can get the cylinders and heads cut in a lathe it's ideal, thent he machine marks work for you (holding the gasket) instead of against you (a path for cylinder pressure leakage)

Ray
 
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