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KFXokie
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, frustrating day trying to get these carbs set up right.* I started with stock carb set up and I have fabbed dual HMF mufflers off my vforce and used the stock headers. Ran ok with a pause on accelaration and* popping decel. Thought ok just rejet.Rejetted with 175F and 170R. Turned the fuel screw out a 1/4 turn. Ran like crap when I hit 20 mph.* Scratched my head and tried running it with the air box lid covered slightly and it ran worse.* Opened the lid slightly while running it and it would hit a spot every so often where it ran great. So I thought ok needs more air and went home to drill 6 1 inch holes in the lid (Worked great on my V-force). Rejetted again to 190F and 190R turned fuel screw back to where it was stock,* 1 9/16th back and 2 1/16 front, went out and ran it and ran slightly better than before.* Tried running with holes all covered up and uncovered one hole at a time and no difference. Stock was way better. At this point I am ready to put the stock muffler back on and put the stock jets back in. WTF is up with this carb set up? How is it different from a V-force 700 set up? On the 700 engine I ran a K&N with 9 holes open and HMF duals running with 185F and 180R.* It ran great.* I have read Hunter works posts and am well aware of what is being said about making changes to air boxes and changes to the carbs. I can see his points, but believe there is a lot of potential with these common mods.* Maybe I need to put a lighter spring on the slide, I don't know.Maybe Mickey from Four Stroke tech or someone with experience with the v-twin engines could give us some guide lines on jetting, fuel screw, air box mods and exhaust. I am a simple shade tree type of guy and need help!
 

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Get a air/fuel ratio gauge and you will know quickly and also backfire on decel can be caused by fresh air sucked back in the exhaust on system that is too free flowing.

By the way I am waiting on a exhaust system to come in now and have a couple new instruments to take some measurements so I will be getting this right. There is some upside on these simple mods you just have to get it right.
 

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Did you ever do a plug chop to see how rich it was burning? I done this yesterday and im jetted almost perfect 136/138 dyno jet with the lighter slide springs and the screws 1.5 out.. Remember dyno jets arent the same as the stock jets.. You should go out and do a plug chop and see where you are at,im willing to bet your WAY too rich.
 

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One thing to keep in mind, with all the additives in fuel these days, checking the plugs could be an in-effective method of checking your your jetting. I did not know this, this is information from an individual that does R&D for carbs.
 

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The way I did a plug chop on mine was to run it wide open for a mile and kicked it in N and killed the motor clean. Pulled both plugs and inspected the electrode..

How else can we check the jetting without a air/fuel meter?
 

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There is not a better way than the guage. The good part is you can buy more bungs and spread the cost with a buddy.
 

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The way I did a plug chop on mine was to run it wide open for a mile and kicked it in N and killed the motor clean. Pulled both plugs and inspected the electrode..

How else can we check the jetting without a air/fuel meter?
theres no cheap way around it,dyno or a/f guage is the only way
 

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Spark plug reading is the only way I have done it on my drag cars,im doing it with the rex also....

theres no cheap way around it,dyno or a/f guage is the only way
 

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KFXokie
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, good info

I will try to start from the bottom and move up next time. I will check the plugs as I go. If it doesn't work better this time I will be forced to go to a shop with a dyno and the gauge to get it right.
By the way I had ordered a VDI from Hunterworks and with the delay in more units being released I changed to a Dynatek CDI. I just want to get it running strong and leave it, so it will work. I hope it works as well as the VDI on performance. Any thoughts?
 

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The map dynatek use's runs pretty good,going to try a few things with it soon and see how that does.. I went with the dynojet kit so I cant help ya on the jet size..
 

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KFXokie
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Things are running much better

:dance:

:dance:Started over moving up jet sizes to get where I am now.* I have a 145 in the front and 150 in rear, with 6 1 inch holes in the lid with foam vents in them.* Runs awesome, no pause or cutting out.* Only problem is some popping on decel.* Can I fix that by turning out the fuel screws a little?Just got my Dynatek CDI yesterday and plan on putting it in tonight to see what I've got.* It already runs strong, ready to see what it will do with the CDI.* Anyone else put one on yet? I will post results this weekend.
 

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sounds liked you did good, okie, these motors will fall flat on there face if you over jet, in a way it makes them easy to tune, you just have to start at the bottom and work up, when it starts to stumble you know its to rich.
 

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My suggestion is start with a jet that you know is too fat, come down until it stops stumbling on WOT and then go one more size down. Sizes should go in 2.5
 

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dragon fire racing now has a jet kit for the teryx, which includes main jets for all altitudes, lighter diaphram springs and new needles. so if your doing an exhaust and intake, you might check this out.
 

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I WANT ONE
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:dance:

:dance:Started over moving up jet sizes to get where I am now.* I have a 145 in the front and 150 in rear, with 6 1 inch holes in the lid with foam vents in them.* Runs awesome, no pause or cutting out.* Only problem is some popping on decel.* Can I fix that by turning out the fuel screws a little?Just got my Dynatek CDI yesterday and plan on putting it in tonight to see what I've got.* It already runs strong, ready to see what it will do with the CDI.* Anyone else put one on yet? I will post results this weekend.
I run my V-Force mixture screws at 3 turns and 4 turns out. That was per HMF. I found out after that I needed to use the softest locktite. That far out, they kept moving further out on me. That helped mine the most. Try it, it's the easiest adjustment.
 
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