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Jan, Jun, Oct 2021, Feb 2022 TOTM Winner
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's time to upgrade my old holiday trailer. It's getting old, worn out, not worth much and the layout sucks for our family. I've been hauling my Teryx4 in the back of my truck which works fine but the platform I screwed in there wasn't well thought out. I can't use my tailgate, there's a bunch of wasted space under the deck etc...So I'm looking to see what toy haulers might fit this thing. Will be seriously shopping in the spring but wanted to see what everyone here had for opinions or things they like or don't like about theirs. Pro's and cons of metal sidings vs fiberglass etc..

I don't want a fifth wheel for a number of reasons, I don't have a fifth wheel hitch, I don't know anyone who has one, I don't want one, If I ever want to take two machines I'm sol as there's no way I could fit a Teryx and anything else in most toy haulers I'm considering. I like would like to have room in the truck box to haul crap like fire wood, gas cans, propane tanks, etc.. while pulling a trailer. Right now I'm putting all that stuff inside and underneath the Teryx while it's loaded in the truck box.

The things we want most in a trailer are have having 3, ideally 4 full time beds so we don't have to make and unmake beds everyday, a built in generator and fuel station would be nice too. A separate garage would be nice but not necessary.

So far the most ideal layout that's in my price range that I could find is a Jayco Octane zx t 29m like this one
Jayco octane Zx toy hauler | Travel Trailers & Campers | Lethbridge | Kijiji. But I have a feeling the Teryx won't fit in there unless you remove one of the bunks but won't know till I go look at one I guess, I can't find any measurements online anywhere except for the overall ceiling heights which doesn't really help. I do have a 2" lift in mine to. I'll likely chop the cage eventually but not in the foreseeable future. I found this one as well that may also work. Nitrous toy hauler | Travel Trailers & Campers | Medicine Hat | Kijiji

Any advice or specs of your toy haulers would be appreciated.
 

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I was looking for a toy hauler also. I want a new one. I would be leery of a used one that isn't very old. What's wrong with it? That's just me.

The virus has depleted most dealer inventories. One dealer told me that he will soon be a dealer without a unit to sell. Manufacturers are struggling to get the parts they need. Things like refrigerators, microwaves and fixtures. One guy on another forum I visit suggested that the next generation of RVs will be crap because the pressure to get them out FAST will be so great. I don't know how true that is but he claimed to be in the "know". I'm sitting back and waiting right now.

Another dealer told me that unless I was going to use it very frequently, don't get a built in generator. He discourages built in generators because they can be big trouble and not worth the cost. He suggested I buy a Honda to take with instead. BTW, he doesn't sell Honda generators.

To me, metal siding says "inferior product". Someone set me straight on that perception.

I was leaning bumper pull myself but someone made the point that they don't have much storage. A fifth wheel has considerable more storage. I'm not trying to sway you, just something to consider. I'm keeping an open mind. However, my wallet may not open that far...

One last thing, perhaps join an RV forum and research/ask questions there. I joined a forum for Heartland RVs just to get a better feel for what I am doing. I've never owned an RV. I have a homemade toy hauler.

Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I hear 5th wheel pull way nicer and tow better than bumper pulls, the ones I saw at camp usually had a nice size pass through storage at the front under the bedroom too.

I'm not too worried about buying used, though I'd prefer to look at a unit while it's raining for obvious reasons. I've seen a few ads that state they had water damage but fixed it themselves. And it showed! Looked horrible. That's probably the biggest concern for me is water damage, mice damage or bent frame.

I've heard stories about friends buying new trailers and having to take them back to the dealer numerous times to get things fixed water leaks, floor replaced. I noticed when I was house hunting you could tell a lot of the newer houses around here were just built cheap and fast, look good from far but nothing is square and corners were cut. I can see the same happening with some trailers.

One other thing I want is 16" wheels, I see lots with 15. My old trailer has 15" wheels but 6bolt wheels that I believe are 5000lb axles? I'd prefer 8 bolt wheels and 7000lb axles. I've seen a lot of "Lightweight" toy haulers with 5 bolt axles which I assume are rated for 3500lb. I may need to be schooled on that one but always figured most trailers with 2000lb axles run 13 or 14" wheels 3500 lb axles have 5 bolt 15" wheels, 6 bolt 15" 5000-6000lb 8 bolt 7000lb?

I'll admit metal siding looks cheap and old but I'm not sold on fiberglass. I see lots of them that have the panels become unglued from the framing. Thought that may be caused by water getting in the wall? I dunno... I've got a lot of dents in my siding of my 1991 trailer. I'm not so sure fiberglass would hold up? I'm not stuck on one or the other, ugly old metal is all I've ever had and assume it's easier to replace or repair if need be.

I can see a built in genset being a pain if put away wet. I guess a guy would be wise to use premium (no ethanol) so the fuel doesn't go bad overnight and pour in some fuel stabilizer in the off season for good measure. I have an older 3000w generator I drag around, it's loud, heavy, doesn't have auto throttle so it's always running at full speed lol. And it's one more thing to have to load and unload, or worry about getting stolen depending on where you go so I guess there's perks too. Maintenance would be a pita on a built in, but not the end of the world, there's always google.
 

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2016 Teryx2, 2011 Brute Force, 2008 Vulcan Classic 1500
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So, I actually have a toy hauler now, and I've had a few RV's over the years. This does NOT make me an expert by any means, but I'll give you some of my observations. My current Toy Hauler is a 2004 Rag'N 29, complete with GenSet and fueling station, and I carry my Rex in it. I bought it cheap ($4000) because it had un-repaired water damage. I know how to fix it, wasn't worried so much about how it looked and it got me a great deal so I bought it.

1) First thing to know - ALL RV's are built like crap and NONE of them that I am aware of are designed to last more than 10 years. Keep this in mind when you are setting your price point. Doesn't matter so much what you think you can afford, think more about how much you actually want to spend for the amount of time you are going to get out of it. If you do the math, chances are you would be better off in the long run getting a hotel room. The main reason RV's leak though is due to lack of maintenance and protection. Most people don't realize you have to replaced your tires and rubber roof every 6 to 7 years due to dry rot. Can you get more out of it than that? Sure, with proper care and protection, but rubber still dries out.

2) The GenSet's are actually very good, very quiet and extremely easy on fuel. My unit has a 36 gallon fuel tank that also feeds the fueling station. On 36 gallons I can run at 50% load for four days straight. Maintenance is not that bad either. I neglect my GenSet because honestly, I don't use it very much, but it always starts when I hit the button. At least, it always has so far. Its an Onan brand which I think most of them are.

3) You didn't specify what your tow vehicle is. Toy Haulers are VERY tongue heavy. With most trailers, you want 5% to 10% tongue weight. With a toy hauler, you are going to be more like 40% to 50% tongue weight! You will need a strong weight distribution hitch and maybe even air bags, and you will need to have them fully engaged before you lift the jack up. The reason for this is the garage. By its nature it has to be fairly empty to make room for the toys. This means the builder is forced to put everything forward of the axles. You will need at least a 3/4 ton truck to pull a 29 to 32 foot toy hauler, preferably a diesel. Over 32 foot and you will need a 1 ton or bigger. Also keep in mind, if your total rig is 26,000 pounds or more, you will need a CDL just to drive it.

4) Fiberglass vs. Aluminium. This is more a personal matter. I've had both, and both have pro's and con's. Believe it or not, the Aluminum is a lot stronger and will easily last the life of the RV. Fiberglass looks prettier when new, but will suffer sun burn if left exposed and cheaper campers suffer from de-lamination. The more important discussion here is not Fiberglass vs Aluminium as much as it should be Aluminium vs Wood. If you have the chance, pick a trailer with an aluminium frame vs the standard wood frame. The wood they put in these trailers is total crap that you wouldn't pull off a scrap pile to build a dog house with. It also acts like a sponge to water and humidity pretty much guaranteeing you will have rotten wood in short order. I've seen RV's that were only 3 years old with serious water damage. Spend the money up front and get an aluminium frame trailer! Note: Most aluminium framed RV's will come with fiberglass siding, but for maximum life and lowest maintenance, get an aluminium frame with aluminium siding. Hard to find, but worth it. But even then, you have to maintain it. Seriously extend the life of your RV by keeping the weather and sun off it. These aluminium awnings work great and its what I use. Forgot about soft covers and wraps. They hold moisture and actually shorten your RV trailer life! (Shocking note: Every RV over 3 years old already has water damage, you just might not be able to see it yet. If buying used, I can offer some great advice on what to look for)

5) Now about your toy hauler. Toy hauler doors come in two sizes (I forget the actual measurements), but basically "standard" and "Tall". A stock Teyrx will not fit in a "standard" size opening. You will have to go for the taller, which I think is 78"? And plan on chopping your cage if you still want to use that drop down bed. I had to remove mine to make room for Rex and that was before my lift and tire upgrade.

6) You are basically right about the axles. You want at least 6 lug axles on 16" wheels. 8 lug wheels are also good, but it depends on your size and need. Pay close attention to your maximum tow rating and remember that includes passengers and gear loaded into the truck. It goes without saying that you new RV will have brakes so you will need a trailer brake controller. One other thing I should mention, did you know that it is illegal to tow a trailer above 70mph in all 50 states? I see people do it all the time but trailer tires are not rated above 70mph. If you are going to tow faster than that, or for long distances, I highly recommend ditching the trailer tires and replacing them with some quality light truck tires. And yes, a 5th wheel is easier to tow, but they tend to be massive. Expect your mpg to drop significantly with that much sail area, particularly if you tow at high speeds.

If you have any other questions, by all means ask! I have about 30 years experience with owning and repairing my own RV's and I've learned a lot. LOL
 

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Yeah, I've seen those. Cool, but way too pricey. I like the "Work-n-Play" trailers too, but too short for my ride. They are a lot more affordable though
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't worry, I have a dually diesel not a tacoma or ranger so can pull a decent sized trailer without soiling myself or dying.
I agree nothing is built to last but just like anything with wheels or a roof if you maintain it they should last a while. I'll have to do some measuring of some trailers I guess, I've seen where people were able to gain 4ish inches of clearance by moving the brackets for the bunks. Won't know til I see one in person.

I have a trailer brake controller already, they come in handy when you break a brake line on your truck on washboard roads! I never considered the speed rating on trailer tires, though I don't usually go over 70mph anyways when towing.anymore. I thought California or parts of it had a max speed of 50-55mph while towing a trailer? Up here there are no such trailer speed limit laws that I'm aware of though the highest speed limit in Alberta is 110kph/68mph.

I'm still hoping I'll be able to find a trailer that the Teryx will fit in without cutting up the trailer or sxs. I'd get some different wheels and low profile tires just for traveling if that would give enough room.

I've had my 1991 trailer about 16 years. I maintained it fairly well at the beginning (re sealing roof seams every few years, winterizing it early fall etc....) then not so much. Had to replace the hot water heater after forgetting to winterize it til it was frozen already, didn't look at the roof for about 6 years when it started leaking, then the hot water heater froze again but doesn't leak. It's looked like a football for a few years now lol. The awning is full of holes, all the knobs are siezed, I have a bunch of nuts and bolts I use to keep tension on it when in use and it's patched up with duct tape. Right now it's in my driveway with a broken leaf spring that I didn't notice til I got home from our last trip. I didn't feel a thing, handled well considering both lh axles were bouncing off the trailer frame for who knows how long. That'll be the last dollar I spend on it. I hope!
 

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LOL!! Definately don't want you soiling yourself or dieing! Yup, if you got a diesel 6-wheeler, you are good to go! And if you've had a trailer for 16 years, you already know how to take care of it, even if you get lazy once in a while =)

I broke a spring on my old 29' Fleetwood a few years back, and like you, didn't feel a thing! I didn't notice till I got home one wondered why the tire spacing looked odd. Of course, that was right after Fleetwood was going out of business so getting a replacement spring (proprietary of course!) was out of the question. I wound up going to Tractor Supply and getting four new springs and new hangers. I cut the old hangers off and welded on the new ones. Puckered quite a bit first time out, but all was good. Sold it a couple of years later and never had a problem with it.

Good luck in your search! And when taking your measurements, be sure to take into account "road bounce". Even strapped down, your bike will move and bounce going down the road. You can go tight going in and out, but once in place, you will need an extra couple of inches to spare to keep from damaging things!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I tend to crank the compression dials up when I haul mine in an attempt to reduce bouncing in the back of the truck, I think it helps? I wouldn't attempt driving into a garage with zero clearance once parked. I saw a pic of an x3 strapped to the back of a 5th wheel, back wheels were on the bumper and front wheels were at the roof of the trailer. Looked sketchy as eff! It may have been photo shopped?

I've got a few friends that just use enclosed car trailers to camp in. One just installed a furnace finally after being tired of freezing all the time. I do like waking up warm and having indoor plumbing too much to go without. Furnace, insulation and a crapper could be added to a cargo trailer but I'm not that ambitious and that stuff adds up fast.
 

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Andy, you can get everything you need from a junk camper. Check with your local campgrounds, they will often times have a stash of abandoned trailers hidden away somewhere they might sell you cheap. Scavenge for everything you need there, including holding tanks.

I also have a 24' enclosed trailer that the bike used to fit into when it was stock. Now with the lift and bigger tires, it won't. I could get two sxs's or one sxs and 3 ATV's in that thing at one time.
 

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I have slept in mine here in December and it was toasty with the rooftop unit heat strip and a radiator heater...and long johns and my sleeping bag pulled over my head. That's where I miss the insulation. I can chill the thing cold enough to hang meat even in the summer. The biggest reason I want to upgrade is height. I'm tired of hitting my head on the lights. I've got running water but no toilet. Mamma wants a toilet.
 

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Lots of good info here. There may be some good deals next Spring when people start getting out of their impulse RV buys this year. We'll see. Here's our setup. Like VHawk, I've been pulling and around RVs for decades. He had some very good advice in his long post. I'd say 4-5 years on the trailer tires, 5 on the outside.

We looked at toy haulers and may end up in one some day, but we went this route for several reasons. I won't go into them now. I'm legal about everywhere we want to go. Choo Choo. Good luck.

62880
 
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Like VHawk, I've been pulling and around RVs for decades. He had some very good advice in his long post.
a.k.a., "Damn that boy sure talks a lot!" ROFL!!!

Nice setup Lawdog. I've considered double trailering sometimes myself, but haven't done it. Biggest drawback for me was not really having a proper (read:safe) hitch on the trailer.
 

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a.k.a., "Damn that boy sure talks a lot!" ROFL!!! :LOL::ROFLMAO:

Nice setup Lawdog. I've considered double trailering sometimes myself, but haven't done it. Biggest drawback for me was not really having a proper (read:safe) hitch on the trailer.
Ha! Nope, I was distinguishing between your long post that was full of good info and your several shorter ones full of crap. :LOL::ROFLMAO: Just kidding! Seriously, you put in a lot of good detail here.

Pulling doubles isn't for everyone, no doubt. Where I ride, I can't always ride from the camp. So, having the ATV trailer there helps. Also, when you have a toy hauler, it's a toy hauler with its limitations and design choices whether you have machines with you or not. Last is the cost. A really nice fiver is usually a lot cheaper than a really nice hauler. And lighter. I am gonna need a bigger truck in the future if I change my setup...

Downside for me is the logistics of going are more complicated than stuffing a machine into a toy hauler and going.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have a friend who has a setup like that but out here the max legal length is 65'. I don't always know where I'm going when heading to camp and cell coverage is an hour away so we just drive around til we find our friends or vice versa. Backing one of those up to get turned around would take a little practice. I have a hard enough time getting the wife to help me back our little 29' trailer into the driveway. I'd be divorced if she had to help me back of a b train lol.

I always random camp where we can ride from camp. I plan to go to BC once in a while and they don't allow pickups pulling b trains at all.

I agree you can get a nicer 5th wheel for less than a toy hauler. But I'm still leaning towards a bumper pull th. I'd even settle for one that the Teryx doesn't fit in (for now) I could bring my old trusty and crusty rzr along too so we aren't reliant on one machine. I don't like riding alone with the entire family, breaking down far from camp could be bad time! Same with getting stuck and not being able to back up, or where there's nothing or nobody to winch to .
 
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Backing one of those up to get turned around would take a little practice. I have a hard enough time getting the wife to help me back our little 29' trailer into the driveway. I'd be divorced if she had to help me back of a b train lol.
These are easy to back up. You back up 5 feet, it jack-knifes, you swear a lot, you swear a little more, then you un-hook the back trailer or offload the machines first, move the camper somewhere, rehook up, have a beer, swear some more and then you're done. Easy.
 

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Sweet.
 
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