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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just installed them on my t4 . Put the steering stop in as recommended.
Now it won't turn in a 40 acre field . Can these stops be remove with out
Doing any damage?

Thanks for any help
 

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Damn, that sucks. Hopefully someone with experience will chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I hope someone will
 

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How thick were the steering stops? I have SuperATV arms and if I recall right they were about 1/2” thick. It did make my turning radius increase but not that bad. I have to back up to make some tight turns now where I use to just go right around them.

As far as taking them out I don’t know about it causing any damage. It’s in the for some reason. Maybe to keep it from binding while turning since the a arms are now 1.5” forward. It def changes the geometry from the what factory is. I’ve read where some people have been taking them out. Can’t remember where though.


Maybe someone will chime in with some personal experience.


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Come on peeps...someone has some experience with this...
 

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If you think of forward clearance a arms and the geometry with the steering rack, then add some stops in there you are losing more then just the thickness of the stop. The tie rod is mounted at nearly 90 degree perfect angle to the knuckle when you have your wheels pointed straight. This design maximizes equal left to right turn on the knuckle throughout the travel of the rack from left to right. If you move the steering knuckle forward you are actually drawing the tie rod at a forward angle and away from that 90 degree angle, you have to adjust out the tie rods to make the wheel point straight but that doesn't fix the angle that was introduced. Your knuckle will not have the same amount of turn for a given amount of change from the steering rack when that angle is introduced, it will also not be equal left and right which can cause issues with which tire is leading and is likely a partial cause for the lack of turning radius. Another thing to think about is when your front suspension droops or compresses that ideal length will change and you will see either toe in or toe out as your suspension cycles, which causes bump steer. This is the reason that guys like LTI and Magnum don't move the front arms forward on their long travel kits, its more pronounced on their setups not because of width but the increased wheel travel makes for a more drastic change in ideal length when the tie rod is not cycling in the same plane as the control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There about 1/2 inch thick I did have to recenter the steering wheel . I read the instructions it said there ther to prevent
The tie rod from hitting the ball joints I did remove them to ck the clearance . Was not hitting. Axles where not binding
And I waited 4 months on these for the new design
 

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I don't run the stops on mine with the highlifter front arms. If you look at the cvs there's a lot more bind on them with the stops out and would be easier to break if you have then wheel turned all the way.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Going to leave them out and take it easy on turning under full throttle
Thanks for the help
 

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I am not running the stops and have not problems with steering. I do however have a problem with the rears. Has anyone had issues with the Axle rubbing the shock bolts?
 

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I am not running the stops and have not problems with steering. I do however have a problem with the rears. Has anyone had issues with the Axle rubbing the shock bolts?
TPL - Long time since you posted this - were you able to get this resolved? I just put a rear set on my machine, and while I don't have the issue now with the bolt in the 'lifted' position, I can see where it probably will rub when I upgrade shocks this summer and start using the lower, 'unlifted' bolt position.
 

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2018 Teryx4 LE Highlft arms 2" lift spare tire carrier, 3" rear cage chop 28" tires 650watt amp sub
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I installed Highlifter forward arms on my 2018 and left one set of spacers out so that ads up to about 1/4" per side. Still does not steer like factory but it is much better that having all four in. I do not have any rubbing issues with the CV boots.
 

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I know this is an older post but will give my experience. On the front I have SuperATV arms so same concept and geometry changes as the Highlifter. Shaved the steering stops down to half the width before putting them in and the change in steering is barely noticeable. I've run 30" tires on heavy beadlocks and 2+" of lift from Bandit shocks on some pretty rough trails and beat on it hard with no issues with the stock front axles (I've been to Brimstone several times and run the harder trails).

Also have Highlifter rear arms and run Bandit shocks on the lower/unlifted holes. I did have to grind down the mounts some but no issues with the bolts hitting the axle boots.
 

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One more thing to add.... If you're running some really good aftermarket axles like our 2.0 axles, the CV's are much larger and allow for more articulation, so you can get away without running the steering stops. I'm not really supposed to say that and its not recommended to leave the stop out....but its true. As long as you don't get any axle bind at full drop and full turn with our 2.0s and no steering stops...you're gonna be fine.
 
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