Kawasaki Teryx Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Sep 2020 TOTM Winner
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I ordered the BP lift to try and get a little better ride quality as I am not real interested in raising the center of gravity on the machine any more than I have to. So I installed the lift, which pushes the rear shock mounts in for a "softer" angle but then I took out a fair bit of preload on all of the shocks. I am hoping that this will soften the ride up a bit but we'll see. I am nervous about losing that down travel in the suspension cycle, but it's a cheap mod to play with. I forgot to measure the ground clearance before I installed the lift, so I'm not exactly sure what the overall outcome is, but I think that it is sitting close to stock ride height right now, after lowering the preload. At the moment the preload is at 11" front and 11.5" rear, which is a lot softer than the stock set up and no sway bar. I can tell that it flexes a lot better already, but I haven't had a chance to take it down some washboard or anything to test the ride. I do think that I will need to add a little more preload in the rear once I get some gear and a few kids back there, plus I have a set of 28" bighorns to install when I get time, so that may require adding a bit back in for some clearance but we'll see.

63695

Stock set up was about half this far up the ramp before lifting a tire...
63694

63696
 

·
Jan & Jun 2021 TOTM Winner
Joined
·
610 Posts
Do you have your sway bar disconnected as well?
 

·
Sep 2020 TOTM Winner
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you have your sway bar disconnected as well?
yes, swaybar is disconnected as well. I just did that when I installed the lift so I'm sure that is helping with the articulation a lot as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
It will be interesting to hear your thoughts after some trail time. Based on the description you should have more downtravel, but less uptravel. I would be concerned about the combination of decreasing the amount of uptravel and the softer spring rate causing it to bottom out more. Not saying it will, but if you start gettting some jarring on bigger bumps that is the issue.
 

·
TOTM Winner Sep '21
Joined
·
737 Posts
Thanks for taking the time to make this thread. This kind of information is helpful to the Teryx community.

Moving the shock mount inboard has the same affect as reducing the spring rate. Changing preload does not change the spring rate. I would set the preload to where you are showing 12" from the plastic skid plate. At that point I would run it and as 6.2Blazer mentioned, pay attention to whether the spring rate is sufficient for your needs. The hope is that the spring rate is toward the softest that is acceptable for how you use the buggy. If the spring rate is too close to being too weak you might still get it to work by adjusting the compression damping adjusters to 'full hard'???

You are logical minded so I am sure you will realize in short order whether the spring rate achieves the goal you were hoping for with the BP lift.

I'll be following how this goes for you because as I mentioned in another thread, I have been thinking about the BP lift with the same goal as what you are trying to achieve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
Lots and lots of previous discussion and arguments about preload and spring rate! While technically changing the preload doesn't change the actual rate of the spring, it does change the initial acting spring rate. For example, you have a linear rate coil spring of 300 lb/in. With no weight on that spring (zero preload) it takes 300 lb. of force to collapse it 1 in., so basically at zero preload you go running down the road and it takes hitting a bump that is equivalent to 300 lbs. to compress the spring 1". That also means if you put 1" of preload on the spring it is equivalent to 300 lbs. of force. Now if you go running down the exact same road it now takes 600 lbs. total to compress the spring 1" (it's already compressed 1" with 300 lbs. of preload, so compressing an additional inch takes an ADDITIONAL 300 lbs., or 600 lbs. total, to compress it another inch...or basically 2" total).
 

·
Sep 2020 TOTM Winner
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Moving the shock mount inboard has the same affect as reducing the spring rate. Changing preload does not change the spring rate. I would set the preload to where you are showing 12" from the plastic skid plate.
Thanks for the starting point. I forgot to measure the ground clearance before I started so I will take a look and see where it is at right now. I did take some measurements but I didn't go from the bottom of the skid plate to get an actual ground clearance measurement. From what I did measure I think I'm close to stock ride height right now but I will check it again. Like I mentioned I think I will need to add a little preload from where I'm at now, especially to the rear but I will get it out and run it first just to see. The extra ground clearance is nice, but at this point I would rather keep the machine as low and wide as possible for off camber situations as opposed to clearing a few more rocks. My current riding is a mix of slower rocky technical trails (TN, WV, KY) and sandy corrugated/whooped out Michigan trails, so I'm trying to find that balance somewhere.

EDIT: I measured it last night and empty I am right at 12" to the skidplate in the front and around 11 3/4" to the bottom of the frame rail by the receiver hitch in the rear.
 

·
TOTM Winner Sep '21
Joined
·
737 Posts
Please keep us informed as you get more time on it and get a good feel of how the suspension works for ya.

Like I mentioned in another thread, like you, I was always interested in adding about 1/2" lift with the BP kit. I wondered whether the OEM spring rate would function as needed by reducing the preload instead of increasing ???

In short, you can over-preload a spring that is too soft and get the ride height, but the spring/shock may still be too soft to keep from bottoming prematurely.

This is a big deal on MX bikes as riders come in all sizes and skill levels. Trying to keep up with the suspension on my growing Grandkids MX bikes is ever changing..., just like their needs for larger, and larger riding gear! :cry:
 

·
Sep 2020 TOTM Winner
Joined
·
335 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
small update: I put about 400 miles on the machine last week while I was on a hunting trip, mostly wide open snowmobile type trails and I was messing with the shock set-up a bit. I added about a 1/2" of preload to the rears before I left because I was carrying a fair amount of weight but left the fronts at 11". I definitely need to add a bit of preload to the front with the 28" tires just for clearance, as I do get a bit of rubbing on that drivers side recall plate when it's stuffed. It seemed to handle the small corrugations pretty well overall, but both front and rear would bottom out on bigger hits at speed - just as blazer mentioned in this thread earlier. I did play with the compression adjustment some and also the tire pressure. I settled in the middle for compression on the fronts and almost maxed out in the rear but I have to say, with the bighorn 2.0 tires, the psi makes a big difference in those small corrugation/washboard type bumps. Even a difference from 8 psi to 11 psi was quite noticeable at speed over these little bumps. 7 or 8 psi really helped soak it up quite well, but then it's tougher on the pavement sections because of the scrub when turning, etc. I think I settled on around 9 psi in the front and 10 in the rear with a pretty heavy load. So I think that I am going to add about a 1/2" of preload to the fronts and maybe half that in the rear and see where that gets me. Again, my main goal is to keep as much width as possible (lowest lift height) while still clearing the 28's and maintaining a comfortable ride (without buying new shocks).
Loaded with gear for the hunt...
Wheel Tire Plant Car Vehicle
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top