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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I'm new to this forum... I purchased a used 2008 750 back in May. It has been running "ok" for months after I bought it, but never superb.. It gets hot as hell the engine, which I read is a major problem with these, I have a fix I'm going to try with a fan down the middle where the cover for the axle to the front wheel... I will post how that goes

The idle was a bit rough and I had to increase the idle speed a bit to keep it from stalling. It was hard to keep running on a cold start. I adjusted the idle but it was kind of high which made shifting make more a clunk then I'd like to hear..

about 3 months into owning it, it started acting funny, it would run great, then all the sudden it would completely lack power.. It eventually left me stranded and I had to pull it home on my flatbed, at least I got it to the main road and off a 9,000 foot mountain lol.

So I started down the path of diagnosing what is going on...

I did the valve clearance checked several times .10mm intake .20mm exhaust using the .13 and .23 mm to get it in between the range.

After that no problems starting starts up in half a crank.. wow I thought I fixed it

It sound a little "clacky" on idle but nothing too abnormal, and it is extremely responsive when I hit the gas and rev the engine almost to max rpm... not making any bad noises..

Great... Problem solved right?

So I throw all the panels back on and take her for a spin... At about 20mph it starts to lack power and almost like it is misfiring...

Back to removing panels again...

I check the valve clearance it looks like it is a bit off so I readjust.. this time forgetting the TDF and TDR markings, and just looking at the top of the piston using the screwdriver trick to see the top (removing the plug and putting a screw driver in there to watch it go up and down lol.. it is basically the right place where the markings are...

I adjust the valves again, this time I BENT the valve clearance gauge so I know it is resting flat where I need to check the clearance. Also with this unit it is WAY easier to pull the rad hose off to get to the intake vs working around that... it is just draining a bit of fluid, which you can save and dump back in.

This time I don't put the panels back on (they have been off for weeks now) you guys know where this is going.....

I start it up, starts instantly, take it for a spin, same problem.. at about 20mph it like almost is like it missing...

So take it back readjust the valves a 3rd time...

Same problem..

Ok so now I am thinking it is a fuel problem. I replace the fuel filter, air filter, I tested the fuel pump like in the manual it says to blow air in at both input checking output is blocked, same thing the other way unless the P I assume is pressure which it gets from the carb to open the valve, it failed this check.. air came out input blowing in output, and output blowing in input..

I replace the fuel pump.. I had to make a mod the nipple was a bit too small like everyone said who bought aftermarket fuel pumps, so I had to build an adapter.

It seems like it is running even slightly better now after the new fuel pump, now I'm able to get it maybe 30mph before I hit the issue with loss of power and backfiring..

I'm at a real loss here what to do next, do I need to tear the carb apart see if there is debris in there?

I also checked the belt it is within spec still but maybe the clutch is not working, it seems to be revving really high to go only 20mph?

I'm just about ready to take it to the shop but first I will probably pull the clutch out joy having to take the tanks out.. Can the bet and clutch cause these misfiring issues at 20mph? It seem to run very smooth and all the sudden at 20mph there is a problem. Maybe the CVT is busted or something and it isn't changing the ratio, i bet that is expensive..


I am all ears at this point for any advice..

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
ok I have an edit to this... I looked at the valves again I thought it was a bit "ticky" they were off... I adjusted them.. then rotated the engine a full 360 back to the exact same position TDR for the rear.. they were off again, like way off not just a little bit.. then adjusted again made sure it was between the range, rotated again and they were off.. What is going on??? is my valve train hosed or something? Could that be the explanation?

And yes I am making sure to hold the screwdriver while tightening the valve, and i test it after I tighten it just to make sure it didn't "slip"

I also noticed the valves had to be lifted a bit they are a bit loose...

I'm kind of at a loss here what is the correct technique to get them gapped correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I figured out my issue... AFter probably 30 hours working on this thing... The TDF and TDR have TWO positions on the CAM... I had to pick the one with the tightest tolerances to do my adjustment... Perhaps this thing needs a new cam the lobes should be identical, but basically there are TWO valve settings on each TDF and TDR.... This is my discovery anyways.. I adjusted the valves on TDF... turned it to TDF.. they were loosy goosey.. Turn it one more time to TDF.. dead on what I adjusted it too.. Repeated this like 4 times over and over... Then I adjusted where they were loosy goosey and turned twice my adjustments were right on. Fire it up, I'm blasting down the streets again at 50mph and there is no clicking... IDK the manual doesn't mention that or I missed it lol
 

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2011 Teryx Camo, Muzzy exhaust, MSD controller, Pro Armor doors, Method beadlocks and Tensor tires
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The crankshaft has to be at TDC on the compression stroke (when both of the valves are closed) to set the valve clearance. This can be confirmed by watching the intake valve open and then close while turning the engine CCW. After the intake closes, continue turning CCW, when the TDC mark lines up again you are TDC on the compression stroke. The exhaust valve is still open at the end of the exhaust stroke when the crankshaft returns to TDC 360 degrees later.

Mike
 

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Yeah, you don’t want to adjust the valves in between the lobes. You want to be on the flats of the cam after Both valves have opened and closed.
As for it stranding you on the a 9000 foot elevation, are the carbs jetted for that? I have mine set for 0-3000 foot being in Louisiana.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, you don’t want to adjust the valves in between the lobes. You want to be on the flats of the cam after Both valves have opened and closed.
As for it stranding you on the a 9000 foot elevation, are the carbs jetted for that? I have mine set for 0-3000 foot being in Louisiana.
Do you have to mod for being at higher elevations? It seems like it is running beautiful now. I also am using high test shell gas. I'm not going to put any junk gas into this thing it seems to be running great now.
 

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Rejetting for high elevation was a thing back in the dark ages when vehicles had carburetors. Working with carbs is becoming a lost art, replaced by tuning with a laptop computer, ( a skill which I have not acquired). There is less air at 9000ft. than at 1500ft., so the air/fuel ratio is affected, as in too rich.

Mike
 

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Do you have to mod for being at higher elevations? It seems like it is running beautiful now. I also am using high test shell gas. I'm not going to put any junk gas into this thing it seems to be running great now.
What Mike said, carburetors operate within a certain range. From what I gathered from dynojet, 0-3000, 3-6000, and 6000+.
If it has always been at those kinds of altitudes I imagine it was set up that way. But, mine would be running so rich I doubt it would start at 9000ft.

Again, it’s probably jetted right if it is running fine up there.
 

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Rejetting for high elevation was a thing back in the dark ages when vehicles had carburetors. Working with carbs is becoming a lost art, replaced by tuning with a laptop computer, ( a skill which I have not acquired). There is less air at 9000ft. than at 1500ft., so the air/fuel ratio is affected, as in too rich.

Mike
The 08 models have dual cv carbs.
 

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2011 Teryx Camo, Muzzy exhaust, MSD controller, Pro Armor doors, Method beadlocks and Tensor tires
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"The 08 models have dual cv carbs" Exactly, the 2008 Teryx started life in the Dark Ages! The F.I. system for the Teryx and VF750 was in the latter stages of development, but wasn't quite ready for the 2008 model year.

Mike
 

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2011 Teryx Camo, Muzzy exhaust, MSD controller, Pro Armor doors, Method beadlocks and Tensor tires
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" But, mine would be running so rich I doubt it would start at 9000ft." You just wouldn't have to use the choke. People that grew up with E.F.I. don't even know what a "choke" is. (actually, an enrichener on the Teryx/VF750)

Mike
 

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"So it would run ok in the mountains?" Doubtful, I just think a carbureted model would start without the choke. Running? My F.I. 2011 was definitely more of a pooch in Tincup CO than at 1,200 ft. in NE.

Mike
 
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