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Discussion Starter #22
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Discussion Starter #23
Love some classic images in black and white.
 

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I got a lot more done on the machine in the last couple months. First, I did some electrical work under the hood to get it ready for accessories. I added a Blue Seas Marine fuse block, a custom little bar where I can place the relays, and then added a positive bus bar that provides an easy power source for the switch illumination lights in the cab. Now, whenever I want to add an accessory, the wiring is much simpler to do. On that note, I added a budget Nilight 20" LED light bar (model ZH006) to the front bumper as well as a couple flush mount pod lights. I'm not 100% sold on the light bar yet, but for about $25, it was worth the flyer. I wanted a couple things--to use as much of that top bumper space as possible and also I wanted a bottom mount attachment. We might add a bigger bar on the roof later, we'll see.

I added some Trail Armor A-Arm guards. I had the full Trail Armor skid set on my last machine and it was fantastic.

Last thing... threw on a set of Chupacabra mirrors. Put them on the A-posts up high and upside down. This way, I can pivot them so driver can see the rear tires clearly... This helps when backing up in the bad stuff. No guessing! They're running $40 for the set and seem pretty good so far.

Next project is figuring out something better for the winch line. I like to run it out a bit so when I have to pull someone out, it's ready. :wink I am pondering fabbing something like a boat line cleat that I can wrap around a bit. Hmmm.
do you have ny pics of where you mounted fuse box busbar and relay bar I'm trying to decide where I want to mount mine and havent decided yet thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Here you go. The fuse box is a Blue Seas marine box, designed for use in water environments. It's plenty durable for this application. There are cheaper options out there, but I have used their stuff before on RVs and boats. Quality is excellent. Some would suggest that all wires run to one side, but since it is not on the airbox lid, I think sending ones from both sides is just fine. To the right, you'll see a piece of steel bar we fabbed up. Relays will be placed here. It's simply a solid mounting spot, with a gap underneath for hoses and things to run if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
very nice thats where I was looking too seems like a good spot for fuse box did you run a surge protector with it?
No. Pretty simple 12v system. I don't think it's necessary.
 

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what all are you running from fuse box I'm planning several led lights like lightbar side lights rear lights stereo ect. so I'm adding a 100amp surge protector before fusebox
 

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2016 Teryx2, 2011 Brute Force, 2008 Vulcan Classic 1500
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I added some Trail Armor A-Arm guards. I had the full Trail Armor skid set on my last machine and it was fantastic.
I had a set of those massive aluminum A Arm guards on my bike and wound up taking them off because they held so much mud, dirt and other debris I figured they were actually WORSE than running no guards at all (which is what I am currently doing). The low back side on the Trail Armor guards looks like it wouldn't hold so much crap and would be easy to wash out. Do you find this to be the case?

I really like the look of them, but at $270, the price of admission is a bit steep. Before spending that much on arm guards, I'd like more real world feedback on them.
 

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what all are you running from fuse box I'm planning several led lights like lightbar side lights rear lights stereo ect. so I'm adding a 100amp surge protector before fusebox
A stock Teryx only puts out about 30 amps of power max. A 100 amp surge protector seems like a waste of money to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I had a set of those massive aluminum A Arm guards on my bike and wound up taking them off because they held so much mud, dirt and other debris I figured they were actually WORSE than running no guards at all (which is what I am currently doing). The low back side on the Trail Armor guards looks like it wouldn't hold so much crap and would be easy to wash out. Do you find this to be the case?

I really like the look of them, but at $270, the price of admission is a bit steep. Before spending that much on arm guards, I'd like more real world feedback on them.
They work great. As you said, the back (rear) side is lower. This allows for easy spray out at wash time and is sorta self cleaning. Where we ride, we have to worry about rocks and sticks and stuff that would wipe out a CV boot pretty quick. The quality is really good. I was able to catch a rare sale and got them a little bit cheaper. Still pondering the full belly set, but that's probably a season away.

On our last machine, we had their full setup and had more hard belly hits than I can remember--talking hard boulder impacts. These just took it in stride.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
what all are you running from fuse box I'm planning several led lights like lightbar side lights rear lights stereo etc. so I'm adding a 100amp surge protector before fusebox
Running just the front lightbar and pod lights in the bumper and The COM system. LED lights have very little amperage draw generally speaking. The stereo might be another issue, depends.
 

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I have some electrical knowledge but not extensive. Want to add the fuse box and switches to run a few accessories. Any chance you can show me how you wired the fuse box and what other items I will need to buy in order to get the job wired up? I currently have a sound bar and buying a light bar. would like the option to add some interior lighting and possibly other items but probably not more than 6. Are you using rocker switches, if so, which ones?
 

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2016 Teryx2, 2011 Brute Force, 2008 Vulcan Classic 1500
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They work great. As you said, the back (rear) side is lower. This allows for easy spray out at wash time and is sorta self cleaning. Where we ride, we have to worry about rocks and sticks and stuff that would wipe out a CV boot pretty quick. The quality is really good. I was able to catch a rare sale and got them a little bit cheaper. Still pondering the full belly set, but that's probably a season away.

On our last machine, we had their full setup and had more hard belly hits than I can remember--talking hard boulder impacts. These just took it in stride.
Thanks for the feedback :icon_thumleft:
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I have some electrical knowledge but not extensive. Want to add the fuse box and switches to run a few accessories. Any chance you can show me how you wired the fuse box and what other items I will need to buy in order to get the job wired up? I currently have a sound bar and buying a light bar. would like the option to add some interior lighting and possibly other items but probably not more than 6. Are you using rocker switches, if so, which ones?
First, welcome to the forum. I can try to help some. I suggest you start a thread in the new members section and tell us what you have and what you're thinking. That way, several of us can jump in and help. I don't want to go too far afield here.

Youtube is your friend as is this forum. There are many great videos that show the basics. That said, a couple tips. Pull the dash on your machine. See pictures above. This makes everything easier, especially at the start.

Plan out your wiring. Run the basics the same way every time. Use properly colored wires and loom it, heat shrink the ends and do it right. This will save you a lot of time later when you don't have to work on something that suddenly stops working. If it does, your work will be easy to follow and diagnose. Learn how to wire relays and use them.

My setup: The fuse block is hard wired directly to the battery. For switches, just pop onto Amazon or Ebay and see what you like. I like these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T7DR7FW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One thing I did and described above is created a positive bus bar, similar to a common ground point, but of course powered. I run all my switches to this for their illumination. The rest of the wiring goes to the relays then to the fuse block. Everything is clean. I did all of this to speed things up as I add accessories going forward. When I added my intercom a couple weeks ago, all I had to do was run wire to the fuse block and done. A 5 minute job and then some zip ties and done.

Hope this helps a little.
 
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Thank you very much for the reply. Where did you install the switches in the cabin? Did you have to fabricate anything to install them?
 

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Thank you very much for the reply. Where did you install the switches in the cabin? Did you have to fabricate anything to install them?
Hey... been away in the mountains. No need to fabricate anything. The switches just went in the main switch bank in the dash--just cut out the knockouts and in they go.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Hey Lawdog, new guy here with same new ride. Can you send me the info for the hood decal please?
Welcome to the forum! I will send you a PM. I recommend you start up a new member thread and introduce yourself!
 
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