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Discussion Starter #1
New Teryx4 owner here.

I recently purchased a 2014 that the dealer still had in stock. I am used to the ride you get from some of the newer/larger 4-wheelers. I need to do something to soften the ride up a tad. Well to be honest, I would like to soften it up a lot! This thing is nice but it rides like a tractor!

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I am not interested in spending anymore money at this time.

Thanks in advance!
 

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theres quite a few answers on some recent posts
 

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I have my shock compression adjusters turned almost all the way out, the T4 rides like a Caddy compared to my Polaris RZR 50"...
 

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2014 T4
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Retorque control arm bolts, dial compression all the way out and take out some preload when no passengers are in back
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I truly appreciate the responses! I know there are a couple of adjustments but I do have to admit that I don't know the names of the adjustments. I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge.
 

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2014 T4
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The compression is the dial on the outside of the reservoir. Turn it counterclockwise a few clicks at a time. I have mine two clicks clockwise from all the way out. Preload is the adjustment collars on the spring. There is a complete thread on the control arm bolts. I think ridepate started it. You will soon become more efficient at making this adjustments with time and research. Welcome, now let the fun and spending begin.
 

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Ya, I have loosened all my A arm bolts/nuts a little and aired my tires down a tad. Im running 10 psi but Im thinking I may need bump it up...Im considering Bandit shocks but I just cant believe for the life of me they are better than the Fox shocks...
 

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Old Ezra
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Ya, I have loosened all my A arm bolts/nuts a little and aired my tires down a tad. Im running 10 psi but Im thinking I may need bump it up...Im considering Bandit shocks but I just cant believe for the life of me they are better than the Fox shocks...
Let's just call it an "amendment" to the video. The adjustments to the A-arm bolts, for me, was an improvement. But it still was not where it needed to be. The Bandits, along with proper A-arm torque is a night and day difference. Not just a "little" either. A lot!
 

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Ride pate I don't know whether to love you or hate you. I am getting close to pulling the trigger on the bandits only because I agree with what you say. The a arm bushing issue is nothing new to kawasaki since my 06 brute force that I bought new was the same way. With all of the suspension talk on here as of late I have been adjusting mine and with as much preload that I have taken out I still have the compression 8 clicks in to keep from bottoming on the biggest hits. I have to say that the Fox suspension was a major selling point for me and it sucks that you run out of adjustment before you can get them dialed in. I agree with what you said in the video about bottoming the suspension and adjusting from there. If you never bottom out then you are not using all of your suspension.
 

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Hmm, the overtorqued a-arm bolts make sense to me. I'm going to loosen mine a little and see if that helps alleviate the buckboard ride of my new Teryx2.

Why would Kawasaki overlook this important torque value? Seems like they would want excellent ride quality after installing upgraded and I'm sure expensive OEM Fox shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks ridepate! Quick question.... Do you know what I should re-torque the bolts to?
 

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Hmmmm, though I haven't logged very many miles yet, my 2015 T4 rides very smooth at 2 clicks out on compression dampening on all four shocks.
 

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Thanks ridepate! Quick question.... Do you know what I should re-torque the bolts to?
I think its 68 or 69 ft lbs . Some one correct me if im wrong , I thought that is what A-arm bolts should be torque too.
 

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I think its 68 or 69 ft lbs . Some one correct me if im wrong , I thought that is what A-arm bolts should be torque too.
2014 T4 Torque Specs

A-Arm pivot nuts 64.5 ft lbs
Front Shocks 42.2 ft lbs
Rear Shocks 70.4 ft lbs
 

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Im not trying to start anything here but John from GP products gave me an explanation that made the most sense about the aarm bolt being over torqued. He said you should be able to tighten them to 200foot lbs and not affect the suspension because the pin that goes through the bushings is not suppores to move. The stock pin is to short so when you tighten it down you are locking the suspesion by squeezing the frame up against the bushings and when you loosen it you are allowing bolt pin and bushings to spin. The a arms with the bushing are supposed to pivot on the pin. So by looseing the bolts and the retuorquing the factory setup you are in sense allowing everything to pivot. The bolt, bushings, pin, are all rotating in the hole so in fact you are wearing out the hole that the bolt goes through and over time it will get real bad.

Just an explaination that makes the most sense to me. Give him a call so he can explain better.

Sent from this stupid SMART phone.
 

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True that Maniac! That's why I installed the GP bushings on the rears and have the front set sitting in the garage ready to install.

John at GP is the MAN! Top notch customer service, fast shipping and will to walk you through the install at the drop of the hat. He is a phone call away.
 
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