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That oil is totally fine. Often, Honda 4-stroke 10w-40 is the least expensive and it's excellent oil.

I use Valvoline 4-stroke 10w-40 in our Teryx.
 

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You are required use Kawa oil for warranty purposes, I think. I recently bought oil change and dealer had said they were changing package labels? So I think it ok... I think it should be a synthetic? Dealership or you should keep record/receipt of oil changes for warranty claim if needed for 3 years... imop.
 

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Just so everyone knows. YOU ARE NOT REQUIRED AND CANNOT BE DENIED FOR NOT USING KAWASAK BRAND OIL. The owers manual even states the oil language very specifically.

"or Other 4-stroke oils with the API SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM and JASO MA, MA1, MA2 rating"

As long as the oil is properly rated you are totally covered. It does have a little blerp about how Kawasaki [performance oils have been specifically engineered for blah blah but many teryx4 owners have been using rotella t4 diesel oil because its JASO rated and handles the sheer from the clutch system very well.

Stick with generally any name brand properly rated 4 stroke oil and your fine.

For the rear dif it even mentions Mobil Fluid 24, Citgo transgard hydraulic fluid, and Exxon Hydrual 560....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I called dealer today to question the oil they sold me (motorcycle)and told me it’s the same as the atv/utv🤨🤔. Guess I run with it this time since I already have and leaving to head up wed.
 

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Correct. Now list the oils with all 10000 of those oil ratings please? I play it safe. I doubt Rotella has all approved additives but it might. Its good oil for my Cummins but I run full Amsoil in it.
 

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Correct. Now list the oils with all 10000 of those oil ratings please? I play it safe. I doubt Rotella has all approved additives but it might. Its good oil for my Cummins but I run full Amsoil in it.
Honda, mobile, supertech, Rotella, Yamalube, Napa, Valvoline, Mystic, Castrol, motul, citgo, Polaris, quicksilver, kolpin, lucas, torco, mag1, royal purple, sinopec, are just some of the oil brands approves for 4 strokes/UTVs...



You’re putting Amsoil in a cummins and you wanna talk about using approved oil... Amsoil doesn’t even carry the API rating. Mr play it safe...

Amsoil says this In a nutshell; we don’t pay for the expensive and unnecessary API service to qualify our oil because they don’t really matter. They would not allow our oil to pass because we make it better then what the API allows for the new EPA mandates but.... someone’s gotta pay our lab techs to prepare our oil to be so much better, so let us help you save money buy spending 300% more for our oil and hemp is help you fight the big oil companies and stop them from selling you subpar oil.


Ps. Over MILLIONS OF MILES on numerous diesels using tractor supplies Travellers 15w-40 diesel oil. Powerstrokes, Cummins, Internarional, caterpillar, bobcat and the list goes on... All Made by warren industries one of the cheapest diesel oils on the market and NOT ONE OIL RELATED ISSUE.

Before you start telling people they have to buy Kawasaki oil to keep their warranty You should tell them you run Amsoil in your cummins...
 
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Well jeez. You didn't list ratings of those oils? I run 25k on my oil changes and send sample to Blackstone labs to verify oil properties and engine conditions. Still excellent with no issues at 25k. Im 100% sure ya can run your quality TSC oil for 20k miles no problem. Give it a shot!! After all oil is the same. I gots some ocean front property in Montana for sale? Do you do that or ya just a typewriter expert? Amsoil is such garbage... Pennsoil da best. Sorry Im a bit spunky today. My stupid meter is overfilled. BY the way most oils ya listed aren't cheaper than Kawa oil so whats the point?
 

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You are required use Kawa oil for warranty purposes, I think. I recently bought oil change and dealer had said they were changing package labels? So I think it ok... I think it should be a synthetic? Dealership or you should keep record/receipt of oil changes for warranty claim if needed for 3 years... imop.
I WAS wrong on "required" I meant required to use comparable rated oils. Sorry. Or maybe I was totally wrong, dunno. Im buying Kawa oils and my dealership has it on record when I do for warranty purposes.
 

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TSC is Rotella oil, which is a good oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well jeez. You didn't list ratings of those oils? I run 25k on my oil changes and send sample to Blackstone labs to verify oil properties and engine conditions. Still excellent with no issues at 25k. Im 100% sure ya can run your quality TSC oil for 20k miles no problem. Give it a shot!! After all oil is the same. I gots some ocean front property in Montana for sale? Do you do that or ya just a typewriter expert? Amsoil is such garbage... Pennsoil da best. Sorry Im a bit spunky today. My stupid meter is overfilled. BY the way most oils ya listed aren't cheaper than Kawa oil so whats the point?
Black stone labs is great, I send my oil to my race cars there👍🏻. Amazing the info they give you
 

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The key is the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) MA rating. Oil without the JASO MA, MA1, or MA2 specification would put friction modifiers into your clutch system which could cause it to slip.
 

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Well jeez. You didn't list ratings of those oils? I run 25k on my oil changes and send sample to Blackstone labs to verify oil properties and engine conditions. Still excellent with no issues at 25k. Im 100% sure ya can run your quality TSC oil for 20k miles no problem. Give it a shot!! After all oil is the same. I gots some ocean front property in Montana for sale? Do you do that or ya just a typewriter expert? Amsoil is such garbage... Pennsoil da best. Sorry Im a bit spunky today. My stupid meter is overfilled. BY the way most oils ya listed aren't cheaper than Kawa oil so whats the point?


ps @Stormking I do want to say sorry for sounding like such a turdblossom. I feel I was just having a really bad day I guess and I believed so many lies about vehicles and maintenance from mostly shady folks and then I really wanted to learn so I get all riled up when I DON'T READ THOUROGHLY ENOUGH and see you were just trying to help. I am really sorry for starting off so rudely. I really need to calm down to say the least lol and I can work on the tone of my keyboard warrior skills to come on more politely.


For you of course :) I never said Amsoil is junk. I also never claimed Travellers or pensoil is the best. ALSO every oil I listed makes an approved/ properly rated UTV 4stroke oil with the needed ratings for the Kawasaki teryx4 and many other engines that require the same rating . Whether its cheaper or more expensive was not the point. You made it clear that you believe the original poster needs to use Kawasaki oil to keep their warranty but you didn't mention you're not using an approved/rated oil in your other vehicles? Whats the point of practicing the "do what I say not what I do"??? I actually don't like Travelers as an oil because the cold starts are not as smooth as the synthetic blends or full synthetic oil but when an engine has over 500k using it with no oil related issues its hard to justify buying another brand or type of oil that cost 1.5-3x as more just so it "sounds better" when its -25 outside. we've inspected the cylinders on numerous engines that had cooling issues with the weight moved and honestly the majority of excessive wear is new/inexperienced drivers. All the cross hatching was there, no excessive build up on the egrs or dpf either....


Also Amsoil was not API rated for years. I may even have some of the emails when I first learned of the $8 per quart 15w-40 oil I was looking into... They appear to have the API SN rating on some of their oils now though.

Im just here trying to help people realize oil is oil... Yes there are minor differences in the additive packages esp for HD (typical a diesel rated oil) Diesel rated oils had some sort of technical loop hole if that's the proper way to say it because mid 2007 the pov diesels were being equipped with the DPF/regen system hence the new CK4 rating for all HD diesel oils. You'll see a significant drop in zinc, mag, and phos but a huge increase in boron and other additives to help with the lubricity/heat resistant needs. Even Ford through a huge fit about ck4 oils causing accelerated wear with the scorpion 6.7l so they came out with a list of "ford approved oil" for the 6.7l to help the customers. the list was huge and only like 3 were motorcraft products... Even some big players in the game played ball with Ford like Delo and Shell/rotella made some changes to appease fords requirements to protect their engines better than the new ck4 oil. CJ4 oil was far superios but it reduced the life of the new dpf systems so the EPA made new mandates and now who knows what the new ck4 has in it compared to what is just listed on the material list.

PS if you bought oceanfront property in Montana..... I hope you can sell it :grin
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Rotella is such a superior oil IMO, I use it in Pretty much all my weekend cars Especially my supra. Been through them all bradpenn, amsoil,royal purple and after doing Having my oil analyzed with them all the Rotella had the least contaminations. BUT I don’t think I’d put in my teryx as I’m not familiar with the machines and I don’t want to chance anything being it’s brand new LOL
 

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All good. a six pack and a bad day and Im grumpy, or was. Im running 2006 Dodge with 0 emissions and custom stuff. Dual filtration with amsoil so ya I get it. So I have no emission or warranty to worry bout. I just want long good life... And Its slightly cheaper than changing oil every 8000m with Rotella or Delo. I run Kawa oils in my utv's though. I was trying to help, that's all.
 

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IMO most people put WAYYYY too much thought into engine oil. Most brands and types of engine oils meet many different requirements, and just because it may not have one particular rating doesn't necessarily mean it "failed" to gain so. May just be because that particularly brand never bothered to take the time and money to certify the oil to that particular spec. I deal with this type of situation all the time at work as sometimes it simply doesn't make financial sense to pay $100,000 a year to maintain a certification when it you only gain $100,000 in sales ($100k - $100k = $0) from it. I'm not saying this is always the case but it is pretty common in industry.

Many different "brands" of oil are also made by the same companies, and obviously the house brands at Wal-Mart, TSC, Autozone, etc...are made by one of the big engine oil manufacturer. Just because the Wal-mart brand is less expensive does not necessarily mean it's a "cheaper" oil, and thus not as good, as opposed to others. I also deal with "big box stores" you want you to provide private branded product to them. Typically you sell them the exact same product at the same manufacturing cost as compared to the "name brand" with the only difference being the packaging and name. The cost difference is that you simply agreed to sell it to them at a lower price because they buy a very high volume of product.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
WOW im shot 🏻.just got to our pa house started machine to warm up before draining and i hit the display for the first time. It said 168 so i assumed it was hours Not realizing it was on mile setting lol. Checked the hours and is 11.7 hours. I was telling my wife to the other day I can’t believe how many hours we have on the machine already They add up quick. In the meantime it was miles the WHOLE time
 

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Years ago I had a chevy monza. Ug I know but I thought it cool for the $. However the engine, Old 151 iron duke was shot. Rings were so bad it drank more oil than gas. Synthetic oil was just coming out and Grandpa bought 5 gallon for his farm equip. I asked if I could have some and he said 1 qt. I put it in. I went from 1qt per half tank fuel and engine fouling plugs to 1 month of not adding oil and hardly smoking at all. So I do think oils make a difference, even today when things are more comparable. I don't buy into name brands but do research, cross reference and speak to others in my decisions. I hate Penssoil, fyi.
 
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