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Discussion Starter #1
How Hard Is This To Change?

Chase
 

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Gumbo
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mine is leaking to doesent look to hard remove the right rear tire and then role the rubber boot back on the drive shaft remove clip which releases the drive shaft slip yolk and then remove the drive shaft and the seal is around the outside of the splined shaft that comes out of the motor probably the worst part is going to be removing the old seal let me know if you try it :beer8::beer8:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This Was Probably One Of The Easiest Things To Change On A Teryx!
The Whole Thing Took About 10-15 Min.

Just Lift Bed And Slide The Boot On The Driveshaft Forward Take A Pair Of Pliers And Move The Snap Ring Forward On The Driveshaft.
Than Push The Front Part Of The Shaft To The Rear Slide It Off Of The Output Shaft And Then Pull Forward To Remove The Slip Shaft.

I Used A Small Flat Head Screw Driver To Remove My Seal Then Just Pushed The New One In With My Hand.

The Factory Seal Was Flush With The Cover But I Pushed The New One In Till It Bottomed Out About A 1/2'' Past Outside Of The Cover.

Then Put The Slip Shaft Back In And Done!!!

Chase
 

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Gumbo
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well i guess that means that i will change mine myself too because i dont trust my dealer my seal is in so ill give it hell this week thanks :woot::fiddy:
 

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I'm another that don't trust the dealer, let alone the hassle of taking it there.

Go info Chase08...mine isn't leaking now, but given this is showing up for a few here, it wouldn't surprise me to see this happen.
 

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guess everybody need to call kawi and raise hell about the seals now
 

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Both front and rear seals (transfer case) are leaking on mine 52.6 hours
 

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rear oil seal

Mine is leaking now badly at 127 hours. Does any one know the new part number for the new seal ????
 

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replaced rear twice now and front once
 

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i replaced rear.. dropped er off at kawi/kubota dealer.. mostly lawn mower mechanics..lol.. never leaked a drop since.. front gettin slightly damp.. barely... 86 hours.. 08 dynatek cdi,k&n,dyno jet, severe duty belt,stainless 2" turn down, no spark arrestor, 63 mph..2 guys 210 , 175, garmin gps..
 

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mine leaked like a month after i bought it. not bad enuf to me to bother with it yet though. but if you guys say its that easy probly will change it soon.
 

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my rear seal on the motor was leaking so i took it to the dealer , they changed it and it is still leaking. called them back and told them about it and they said tehre was a groove wore into the drive shaft . i guess this is just another one of kawasakis poor design. hard to believe that the rubber seal is tougher than the drive shaft.

one more thing on leaks . my fromt diff was leaking so the dealer changed the seal and they said it was because there was a quart of water in it .he said these things build up a lot of condensation in them and to change the fluids at lest every six months.
 

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I've complained to the dealer about these bloody seals. I've replaced the engine ones 6 times now, they're fairly easy to change, but its ridiculous how quickly they leak. I don't pressure spray them, and the shafts are not scored so its just poor design. I ride with three other people who have teryxs and they are having the same issue, so its a systemic problem. The problem with the seal even weeping a bit is that the oil is flung onto the exhaust and stinks. I cant stand that smell.
 

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creek runner
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just curious, if people say they dont trust their dealer, why is it their dealer??

almost every kvf and krf with any kind of time on them seeps a llttle bit. i think its either a crankcase venting issue or more than likely the machine has some leakdown past the piston. if your pressurizing the crankcase your going to have seal leaks. if you get a belt slip you blew out the seal behind the drive clutch as well. so you may want to do a leak down test to determine that. or have your dealer do it for you.....if you trust them that is.... otherwise youll be a seal changin fool.
 
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