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Russ T.
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127 Posts
I like mine the way I bought it. I'm close to 60 now and my t4 recently caused a near unplanned bowel movement when going for power on a hill climb. I did modify my exhaust on the climb as I passed gas instead of crapping myself and it must have gotten into the air induction as I did notice a slight increase in speed. I was concerned about water getting inside after crossing a small stream. Then I realized it happened at the bottom of that same hill and wasnt outside water....it was where I "peed" a little after climbing that hill. But, unplanned bodily fluid accidents aside, I truly love this machine. Laugh everyone, dont get mad.....one day you will be my age and appreciate things are just fine the way they are.
 

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ROCKSOFFROAD
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1,436 Posts
Ha ha that's funny having fun its what its all about I count hrs and miles as how much fun its all good till someone gets hurt Putin on your mods makes if more fun then more power more fun unlike the trucks I drive at work I can honestly say every mile on the teryx is great fun
 

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ROCKSOFFROAD
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1,436 Posts
Our t4 fdm has worked out good so far got it at 600 miles now has 900 miles haven't heard anyone have any more trouble I wonder how many miles we can get on a drive belt wish it was easy to inspect I should have the tools minus a impact wrench anyone know the best place to get one that you can carry in the rex
 

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Russ T.
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127 Posts
I'm about as mechanically inclined as my 2 year old grandson but, I did a search on Amazon for electric impact wrenches, if thats what you are looking for, and found a craftsman cordless with reviews through the roof. Lots of torque. There were others on there also. Hope that is what your talking about....then again I did fart and piss myself on my TRex. so.....take it with a grain of salt.
 

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ROCKSOFFROAD
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1,436 Posts
Ha ha ya me too craftsman works for me the only place I looked was harbor freight and they only had 1 to choose from in a 1/2 in.drive at 119.00 $ if I pay good money I need to see what others have tried to work out the best yay or nay
 

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563 Posts
I put 236 miles on new belt and converter (FDM) and vforce john clutch kit (middle hole on clutch weights is empty, the other two holes have a bolt and washer). This setup was on 30" Roctanes with about 70% of riding in low gear, Hatfield&McCoy and Busco beach riding.

Yesterday I inspected cvt components. To my surprise the cvt bell housing was very clean, very little black dust. Belt measured 29.25mm and 22.70mm. For comparison i measure new spare belt and it measured 29.40mm and 23mm.

Pre-FDM setup had lighter tires (28" zillas) and CVT inspection showed a lot of black dust.

So, i have to assume the new FDM belt is stronger and produces less wear (black dust). Thus far I am happy with FDM setup.
 

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Vendor
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1,121 Posts
I'm really not angry, I'm trying to say that MY experience is, on a 800cc teryx4 adding a PCV tuned from VFJ and gutting the converter along with spark arrestor to me" IN MY OPINION" is not worth it. Why is that so wrong on here? My real world experience is that it will barely give you a quarter of a buggy length in 0-50mph performance. I do not deny that you can lower your temps or get a minor slight seat of the pants feel with some modifications, but it just isn't worth it. What I'm trying to say is If I would have talked to someone with these mods and said unless you want to remove the speed limiter it's not worth it I would have saved my money. Do you know what the optimal air fuel ratio for these bikes are at WOT? I'm offering some R&D on this opinionated subject. To me it's like this, somebody posts on here is it worth it to add a PCV and gut my exhaust for performance gains? Hey I say no now; but let me do some data logging and if I need to add some fuel because of the more free flowing exhaust along with VFJ's timing curve then I'll post my opinion of gains after that. What's wrong with this?


The gains you got are right on par for what was dome to the machine.

Like I said in a few posts. the PCV gives you 2-3 hp at best. Gutting the cat can show a few HP PAST PEAK. maybe 2-3. but you aren't gaining at peak.

PCV isn't meant to be any major HP improving modification, Never was, never will be. it makes it a little snappier. but it's main intention is to REMOVE THE LIMITERS.

also my timing curves are based off of REAL ENGINE TIMING. Used with a timing light and a marker on the clutch to show true actual timing from TDC*

these start at 5* and then gradually advance to 31-32 degrees with most happening by 6000 RPM and over 35% throttle.

where I'm adding +15* timing, you do realize you're only running between 5-15* timing.

max timing these like is about 38-38* and we aren't coming CLOSE to that with those timing curves. were NEVER adding +15* at wide open throttle. it's only at 0-1/4 throttle at very light loads and lower RPM.

I do my homework and know what to do on curves. this also reduces engine temps by about 8-10* from the timing advance, especially low and midrange

It's easy to look at maps and say....That's too much....If it was, there'd be a hell of a lot of overheating machines, melted spark plugs, blown headgaskets....Where's that at?? DO SOME HOMEWORK!!! LEARN THE TRUE TIMING CURVES VS RPM!!


Also, RWHP getting with the Muzzy pipes. Both Myself and DASA have seen the same exact HP improvements on the new Teryx 800 using My PCV tuning, Muzzy exhaust and Free flow air filter with my Stage 3 clutch. They get 60-61 rwhp TESTING WITH KNOBBIES!!!! I get 61-62 rwhp. DOn't say these things don't do what I claim. here's 2 dyno's 3500 miles apart. using the same parts and tuning...

Read the article. I Sent them the PCV tuning and the clutching and they set it up on David's car to ensure proper operation, Before this, without my tuning they were only getting mid 50's rwhp and banging out at 65 mph. Look at Team SDR racing's 2014 Best of the Desert racing stats. He's won just about every race he's entered this year. These are 500+ mile races that take 15-16 HOURS to complete WIDE OPEN RACING CONDITIONS!!! No issues with Tuning or Clutching.... Proof right there boys!! My setups WORK!!

read for yourself what they are getting at the rear wheels from Dasa. it's the 3-4th paragraph down...:icon_thumleft:

Dirt Wheels Magazine | KAWASAKI TERYX RACER

Next, the secondary clutch sheave was milled thinner by VForce John and a heavier spring was installed. Lytle tells us he will experiment more with weights and other springs when the need arises. VForce John charges $329 for the secondary clutch mod. David also cut the back half of the clutch cover off to make belt changes easier and enhance cooling. It still runs and has had success with the stock CVT drive belt. According to the DASA Racing dyno, this machine puts out 60 horsepower to the rear wheels. Those wheels are OMF’s NGX2 beadlocks, measuring 14- by 6-inch wrapped with 30×10-14 ITP Ultra Cross tires or 28×9-14 ITP Baja Cross tires depending on the race conditions. To finish off the project, a custom wrap was designed by One11ink that uses the stock Candy Apple Green color for an exact match to the stock Kawi hood and bed sides.

Just incase you were wondering. Dirtwheels didn't get the clutch setup right in this write up. It's the PRIMARY and cost was 350.00 for the stage 3.

Don't take it from Me. Take it from the Racers and Riders ACUALLY using my Components.

 
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Here is what my machine is putting down now after all the Big Kev work. I would have to borrow my buddy's windows laptop again to pull the PCV programming but I have seen it at Big Kev's who built it, that is how I know I am only running +6 degrees extra timing max. Remember the PCV adds EXTRA timing on top of what is already there.

This kind of work is worth the money to me, but you have to have a PCV and Muzzy's or a custom exhaust and a lot of work to get it. When I got my PCV I knew I was planning on taking the machine to Big Kev's for more work. This machine has a LOT of work in it engine and clutch. I agree with you that no way are you going to get 12HP with just an exhaust and a programmer, it is just not going to happen on the T4 800.



That's sure a nice peak RWHP. but Take a closer look...unfortunately it falls right off the charts in just 20 mph after that peak HP happens.

Look at 36.91 mph you're making only 21 HP at the tire. That's less than stock HP to the wheels at that point.

PLUS. you're revving over 9000 RPM at that only 36 mph??? Way too high RPM and way too low RPM on start off.

No wonder you say you don't go over 50 mph with it. That needs SEVERE clutch help!!

TO loose over 60 RWHP in just 22 MPH. There's major issues with clutching or tuning.

:scared2:
 

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Premium Member
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2,713 Posts
I would have expected nothing less from you John. Taking into account the wet clutch slippage, and the dyno graphs I did not post because I did not take a photo of them, wait until you see the numbers on my machines when I do the WC delete when it is available.

Ask the people who drove my machine many of whom has your stage 3 clutch mod what they though about how it runs. I don't run over 50 because I don't want or need to. I have run this machine faster, but I run in L range and keep up with guys in H where I ride with this setup. If I want to go fast I drive my sports car or a bike. I don't run low pressure tires fast or even have a legal place to do it. In case you have not figured it out yet, this was a run in low range and the 21 was when the throttle was let off of. Whatever I am sure your engines produce WAY more power and are tuned WAY better. OK fine, I like what I have and as a consumer I am happy with it.

Last I am going to post in this thread. Like I said, I expected nothing less from you. :eek:illeak: You got your opinion, so do others. Typical VFJ........ Where is your dyno proof showing the 12HP gain with your PCV and a muzzy's exhaust you claim people can just bolt on? I got a whopping less than 2HP with your PCV. Show us where the dyno shows 10+ more from a muzzy's system with your PCV on a machine that puts out about 40 or so stock? You can get more than a quarter total RWHP with a PCV and an exhaust? I posted actual photos from dyno runs where I was present and taking the photos. This is not a Dynojet dyno either. Typical..... VFJ Let's just say I have been waiting for this. Again, ask the people who have your setup who drove my machine at WR what they think.
 

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jkbduck
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52 Posts
Mine works great. I go slow in the woods all the time. 8-12 mph. No issues. Don't have a temp gauge. Pulled a Sami out of the mud. I'm impressed.
 

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Vendor
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Come on now, You seen these vids already.....Here's the dyno charts , watch it happen and see for yourself. Live action!!




Here's a stock run just for reference. AGAIN, Watch it happen! I did have a modified airbox with 3x holes drilled and I also had the stock muffler end cap removed to insert the sniffer.

Hence the 2-3 rwhp over stock from those mods. NO pcv, NO Clutch work. I was just checking if these things changed air fuel ratio. You can see me recording the a/f ratio on a video so I can see what's happening as I play it back.

If you can't believe what your eyes see, then so be it. Time to clean the glasses.



I'm not the only one who got over 60 rwhp out of their setup. Dasa also confirmed that they are over 60 rwhp running knobbies. Call and ask them. Maybe they are wrong too? This was my complete setup (PCV, ST3 clutch and Muzzy duals) tuned and checked on their dyno.

It's FACT that these make 46 rwhp bone stock. after these 3 mods it goes 60+ rwhp. Nothing hard to understand about that.

Brute Force 750's also make 40 rwhp. and with PCV, Muzzy, Stage 3 clutch, I see 53-54 rwhp. A gain of 13-14 rwhp over stock.

Same holds true for the teryx 750cc 2 seat models. I see 35-36 rwhp stock. with MSD, Muzzy PRO, Airbox mod, Stage 3 clutch. I see 49-50 rwhp. again. 13-14 rwhp gain. How hard is it for this to understand? These Kawy's respond to proper modifications and tuning very well.

Also. VFJ WET CLUTCH DELETE.... I'll have it available in about 1-2 months as a complete package with new primary clutch and the crank shaft tapered attachment. there are only 2 kits out there now that have this. I haven't installed mine yet. IT will use the OEM 0040 belt.
 

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Sooooooooooooooo.......... As far as the factory directed modification goes, mine seems to be doing well. It does shift between high and low much easier.
 

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The shifter and linkage movement has zero to do with the primary clutch and the FDM. the primary clutch doesn't even move until it hits 1600 rpm, these idle in the 1300 rpm range.
 

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Well you are far more qualified as a mechanic, but something loosened up.
 

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if the idle is at 1400 or above, that makes it hard to shift. as the wet clutch is grabbing slightly. (simulates shifting with too tight belt deflection on older models)

When these idle lower, they slap into gear with no issues.

I have 2 teryx 800's both 2014. my blue one shifts so damn easy compared to my green one. the blue one seems to idle lower than the green one.

this is a simple fix if yours idles too high. simply adjust the screw on the throttlebody in about 1/4 turn.
 

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Cool... Thanks for the tip
 

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My 2014 800 idles fast. The wet clutch is engaged and the primary spins. I can grab the primary and stop it but when I let go it starts spinning again. Put it in gear, it lunges forward. Could you be more specific on which screw to adjust?
 

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Also the throttle cable on these is a funky design. If you look at where the cable goes thru the firewall you will see a metal sleeve that resembles a funnel. Whenever mine starts idling high I spray lube in that sleeve and it fixes it. Also when it freezes I spray ether in the same spot and it thaws it out immediately.
 

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My 2014 800 idles fast. The wet clutch is engaged and the primary spins. I can grab the primary and stop it but when I let go it starts spinning again. Put it in gear, it lunges forward. Could you be more specific on which screw to adjust?
There is a small brass flat head screw on each throttle body. Front of the Front t/b, Backside of the rear throttle body.

These can be turned in about 1/2 a turn and it'll bring the idle down. (more if necessary, they are usually only out 1-1.5 turns

I'd try these first. They are simply air bleeds that bypass the butterfly.

if turning those in doesn't help. try setting the main throttle stop.

Throttle stop is located on the drivers side lower of the front throttle body. Adjustment is done by locating the 8mm socket "the lock nut" and an allen head set screw (idle adjustment screw) is what you'd then adjust. Instead of having a simple idle adjustment cable. Kawy made it hard, this set screw adjusts the throttle stop and can increase or lower idle. BEWARE!, turn it out a hair to lower idle. I mean about 1/16th of an inch turn can be 200 rpm...Tough part is, you have to pull the throttle body out of the front cylinder to get to this easily. It's fairly difficult to do. Then reinstall and double check the idle is correct. IF NOT, go back and adjust again.

shoot for about 1300rpm. having a PC5 you can add or remove fuel to achieve idle changes, timing advance can change idle slightly higher. so removing some can lower a higher idle situation by simple electronic adjustment.
 
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