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Discussion Starter #1
2008 Teryx 750, will not start. I've replace the battery and starter solenoid. I tested the starter out of the UTV and it spins, but when its all hooked back up I'm only getting a click. I've even cleaned all terminals. Any ideals? Thanks
 

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DILLIGAF
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634 Posts
Clicking is usually low voltage. My guess would be to check every connection between. First I'd put a meter on the battery and a charger though. After that you saw starter work on bench and solenoid.

I am not one of these guy to say it is the ground every time, but maybe. I wonder about taking a jumper cables and go to ground.

Is it possible just because the starter spins it doesn't have enough left to start? Though in trucks when start was going grinded. Though I think when my starter clutch went on bike, it just clicked.
 

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Bill Pelka
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Remember that the battery and starter can only turn so much. IF the engine was seized or hydro-locked, there is not enough power to turn it over. Your Voltage will drop, your current will go up, cables will get hot. Does anything happen when you turn the key. Just clicking? Some times you can see if your headlights dim when trying to start. That is a quick indicator that the battery voltage is being drawn down. Maybe pull the plugs to take the compression out of the equation. As much as a pain in the butt as it is, you might have to get to the belt and turn the primary clutch to see if the engine is seized...

Good Luck...
 

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DILLIGAF
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Unless somthing bad happened, I would think starter issues are more likely than engine seizing. He would have noticed it when riding. Never seen one sitting for time, but I hear rebuilders talk about it. I doubt it was sitting that long. Dumping various oil conncotions are used by rebuilders to free them up. But I doubt it rusted up.


When I seized an engine, the machine came to a stop. Being a sled with a pull start, it was vary east to tell it was seized.

The water up to your butt is an indicator of hydro locking.
 

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Unless somthing bad happened, I would think starter issues are more likely than engine seizing. He would have noticed it when riding. Never seen one sitting for time, but I hear rebuilders talk about it. I doubt it was sitting that long. Dumping various oil conncotions are used by rebuilders to free them up. But I doubt it rusted up.


When I seized an engine, the machine came to a stop. Being a sled with a pull start, it was vary east to tell it was seized.

The water up to your butt is an indicator of hydro locking.
I'd agree. He only mentioned replacing the solenoid....could be the windings or bearings.
 

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The only thing I would add to what Mr. Pelka said is that on the 2008 engine, I believe there is a small black plastic cover on the stator cover(left side) which you can remove to more easily try to turn the it manually. Again, HOPEFULLY not seized!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so it's been awhile since I posted this ad have had some time now to work on things. I have found that the starter seems to be working just fine. I pulled everything apart and with the starter out I can get it to spin over with the switch like it should, adjusted shift linkage, so now do not have to depress the brake all the time. I have pulled the plugs to remove compression from the equation but when the starter is all hooked back up to the engine it will only click. So I pulled the black cover off as suggested and can only get the engine to turn maybe an inch in rotation then it stops like its hitting something. I pulled the starter again and the small gear inside the housing spins one way but not the other. The UTV was running just fine before being parked by my friend that owns it. I'm not sure if it's the engine that is locked up some how or the flywheel maybe has a broke tooth. Any thoughts on how to check this or the process to remove and inspect the flywheel. Thanks.
 

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Put in starter n bump/jump it to engage?
 

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After you manually turn the motor and it stops, can you turn it backwards? Possibly something on top of one of the pistons hitting the head. Should be able to determine which cylinder is a TDC when it locks up by either watching the piston through the spark plug hole or watching the marks on the rotor. As far as the small starter idler gear, it should only turn one way, that is due to the one-way clutch on the large starter gear.

Good luck, Mike
 

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Bill Pelka
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Something in the back of my mind is saying"there is one more layer of gearing that needs to be looked at". If I remember from some of the discussions on this and the Kawasaki Brute Force Forum, there is more gearing before the rotational energy gets to the flywheel.

Just checked a 650 Brute Force Manual and I cannot find info on bendix assembly. That's part of the one way gear could be locked up and binding the starting process, making it appear to be a locked up motor. I did find a good exploded view of the starter and it shows a starter motor with a small gear. This causes a starter limiter gear to turn. That causes the starter gear to turn. Attached to the starter gear is a one way clutch race. a one way clutch is sandwiched between the starter gear and the one way clutch race.

To see a good picture of the exploded view go to rockymountainatvmc.com and look at the oem for your side by side 2008 750. Check the starter motor exploded view.

Hope that helps. AND thanks for getting back to us with your findings. We'd like to see you get this fixed.

Good Luck...
 

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O.P. stated that the small starter gear, the one you see through the starter hole, turns one way, but not the other. That means the one-way clutch on the starter gear on the crankshaft is working properly.
 

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Bill Pelka
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Missed the statement that the one way clutch worked. Looking more and more like the engine. Maybe open the valve covers and take a peak... If it was ridden with no problems and parked, I would not expect a catastrophic problem, maybe a part jammed and is hold it back from starting/turning. Since the plugs are pulled, it won't be hydro-locked...

Head scratcher for sure...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So far I've only gotten the stator cover off and tried to turn the engine over like that. It will only move about half an inch before you hear a clunk and that's turning in either direction. To me it feels like something on the flywheel side but does not make much since seeing as it was running before it was put up for winter. I really hate to tear it all open but we need it running and soon. Are there any special tools needed to remove the flywheel side of thing.
 

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That doesn't sound good. Yes there is a special tool to remove the rotor. Basically threads into the rotor and the end of it contacts the crankshaft and pushes it off as you tighten the tool.
 
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