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This is a dumb question I know, but I'm having a heck of a time getting the rear wheel off to change the tire on my 2018 Teryx 4. It's a used machine and I did the front tires last year with no problem. I thought there might have been a snap ring or something I wasn't seeing, but I think it's just galded on. Is this a common problem? Is there something else I need to do, or just heat and hammer it? I'm afraid of cracking the aluminum wheels so I don't want to get too rough, so I figured I'd ask first. Thanks!
 

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This is a dumb question I know, but I'm having a heck of a time getting the rear wheel off to change the tire on my 2018 Teryx 4. It's a used machine and I did the front tires last year with no problem. I thought there might have been a snap ring or something I wasn't seeing, but I think it's just galded on. Is this a common problem? Is there something else I need to do, or just heat and hammer it? I'm afraid of cracking the aluminum wheels so I don't want to get too rough, so I figured I'd ask first. Thanks!
There is nothing that holds it on once the lug nuts are off, so it's likely just corrosion and you're on the right track with the hammer. I've had some Jeep wheels get so stuck on that I've had to resort to using a come-along to apply pressure and then beating it with a sledge hammer to break them loose. I usually put a thin coat of marine grease or anti-seize on the hub before remounting to prevent that from happening again.
 

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I haven't had trouble with my Teryx wheels but have other larger and rustier vehicle wheels rust themselves in place. Rather than beat the wheel with a hammer I prefer to chuck a spare wheel(with tire inflated) at it instead. That usually does the trick and there's less risk of cracking or denting a wheel, as long as it doesn't fall off the jack....This works every time on my crusty dually.
 
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That happens to me with my Tacoma, I learned an easy way to get it off. Hope the same method works for a UTV, now lets see if I can describe it well enough..
1st lift the wheel high enough to put an object under tire, remove all the lug nuts then screw one barely back on (so the wheel won't fall off after you get the wheel to break free),rotate tire so that the lug nut is at the top, then place an object 2 or 3 inches tall like a brick, or a couple 2x4's pieces of wood ( 1 on top of the other) under the "back" half of the tire so that when you lower tire onto it, it only contacts inner half of tire, then lower tire and let the weight of the vehicle break it free. sometimes it doesn't pop loose on the 1st try and you just lift it and lower it again, or use a taller object. I'll see if I can add a crude drawing that makes it easier to understand my description. if your on the trail, find a rock to use.
it has worked every time for me, but have never done it on a utv.

Blue Rectangle Mesh Font Art
 

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An aluminum wheel against a steel hub with the electricity that's in the vehicle can fuse them together over time. This happens with car tires that aren't rotated. I've had to beat them off with a block of wood and hammer.
After its off: I put thin layer of oil on the aluminum wheel where it contacts the hub to prevent it in the future.
 

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It's called dissimilar metal corrosion. They don't literally weld themselves on with electricity :oops:
 
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When I was at Oreillys auto parts store, I asked if there was something I could put on to prevent it and they said there wasn't anything that worked, it would eventually wear off or dry up and happen again. Have you had success with the oil JerrBear? if so was it conventional or synthetic? also wondering if huntertim's use of anti seize or marine grease prevents it
 

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When I was at Oreillys auto parts store, I asked if there was something I could put on to prevent it and they said there wasn't anything that worked, it would eventually wear off or dry up and happen again. Have you had success with the oil JerrBear? if so was it conventional or synthetic? also wondering if huntertim's use of anti seize or marine grease prevents it
I would think an oil or WD product may dry up, but anti seize or marine grease have always worked for me on old jeeps and such, I have gone quite a long time between intervals of removing the wheel and they have never been frozen up again. I slather it on the face of the hub and around the base of the studs where the wheel makes contact. Maybe on a sxs with a lot of water or mud riding it may eventually become less effective, but you just need something in between the two different metals.
 

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it's almost time to rotate my tires, I'll try that when i do. Thanks huntertim do you prefer one over the other ( marine vs anti seize? )
 

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it's almost time to rotate my tires, I'll try that when i do. Thanks huntertim do you prefer one over the other ( marine vs anti seize? )
I have had equal luck with both but I'll use anti seize if I have it because it has the little brush that makes it easier to apply.
 

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I usually put on a layer of anti-seize on the hubs and never have any significant issue getting the wheel off afterwards. Have ran into stuck wheels several times over the years, including a truck I bought new the first time I pulled a rear wheel. The truck was probably only 2 years old but the wheels were stuck on good! At my old job the shop had a big rubber mallet, like the size of a big sledgehammer, that you could hit against the inside of the rim that usually worked. Otherwise a block of wood between the rim and hammer. Of course the first thing I always try is just kicking the rim (sometimes you can turn around and give it a "horse kick") and it will pop off.
I do think the next time I have the wheels off something I'm going to try some Fluid Film or Wools Wax as I've seen a couple mechanics with YouTube channels that swear by using it. If you are not familiar with them they are normally used to spray the underbody of a car or truck for corrosion protection and basically a thicker waxy based spray on stuff, so should do the same as WD-40 but last longer because it's thicker.
 

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I have the same issue with my F350 when changing from my stock alluminum wheels after winter time is over. Easiest thing I found is a nice big pry bar between the wheel & leaf spring or if you are careful the rotor & wheel it will just pop right off everytime. I've tried a big deadbolt hammer but a probably is way much easier & faster. I did the same thing on my Tyrex4 when taking the stock wheels & tires off when I did all my suspension work portals & new tires & wheels.
 

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That's too much work Lifted, I'm old and lazy...I let the weight of the truck do all the work. I haven't taken my T4 wheels off yet, I'm almost hoping 1 is stuck on so I can see if I can remove it like i do on my truck. gotta go do a little work on the T4, see ya' tomorrow
 
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