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We shouldn't assume the shorter pipe leads to higher temps. If the longer pipe heat soaked, it could pre-heat the intake air. Since heat rises directly up, and the cylinders are by far the hottest part of the engine, the parts pictures don't look like a definite problem to me.

There's no actual evidence that the intake changes led to failures. It was a good guess but didn't turn out to be part of the solution.

So until we have evidence that snorkeling leads to fewer belt failures, it's still just a reasonable guess. And since we're not seeing a lot of belt failures, my bet is that the new CVT intake isn't a durability issue.

Time will tell. Maybe
 

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I believe it was a cost saving measure. They went from two plastic molded pieces, two couplings, one drain valve, and five clamps to one plastic molded part, one coupling, and two clamps. Another option would be the 2013 CVT intake ducting which works fine on a 2014 and runs about $70.
Cost reduction for sure. Glad 2013 cvt intake parts are bolt-on for 2014 units.
 

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I really think if the belt problems were heat related Kawasaki would not have used the 14 vent on the 15's. They have spent way more to fix the 14's than the small amount of savings for some plastic and a few clamps. When I called the 1-800 number at Kawasaki the tech told me they changed the vent on the 14 to actually pull more air to the clutch and belt.I still have the stock vent with no problems.This is just my opinion..
 

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I really think if the belt problems were heat related Kawasaki would not have used the 14 vent on the 15's. They have spent way more to fix the 14's than the small amount of savings for some plastic and a few clamps. When I called the 1-800 number at Kawasaki the tech told me they changed the vent on the 14 to actually pull more air to the clutch and belt.I still have the stock vent with no problems.This is just my opinion..
The continued use of the 2014 intake is one of the several holes in my scenario. Everyone's opinions have some merit. It's too bad someone doesn't know a Kawi engineer to clarify. It would not likely change anything to know why, but I am still curious.
 

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We shouldn't assume the shorter pipe leads to higher temps. If the longer pipe heat soaked, it could pre-heat the intake air. Since heat rises directly up, and the cylinders are by far the hottest part of the engine, the parts pictures don't look like a definite problem to me.

There's no actual evidence that the intake changes led to failures. It was a good guess but didn't turn out to be part of the solution.

So until we have evidence that snorkeling leads to fewer belt failures, it's still just a reasonable guess. And since we're not seeing a lot of belt failures, my bet is that the new CVT intake isn't a durability issue.

Time will tell. Maybe
I totally disagree. Don't think for 1 second I didn't get a laser temp gauge on the dyno and record temps as I knew this was a huge issue from touching the clutch after making a few runs...

There's no way to heat soak any plastic pipe in front of the motor. So don't think that's happening. it's like saying your speedo is getting too hot from the motor.....Guess again!! (that's where the air is drawun in from on the 12-13 models)

Now....Put that same plastic pipe on top of the rear cylinder and rear header, under 2 rubber mats and a plastic center console cover. What do you think is going to happen to the heat and heatsoak into the plastic??? You got it....Much hotter

Do you know what the temps are in that area?? I'll tell you, they are 185-245* on a normal machine depending on outside temps

What good is it to ingest those temps to an engine "trying to cool it"

there is absolute evidence that this CVT intake on the 14-15 is a huge heat issue. I've already done the testing on it. Others have remedied it and no issues.

Racers have been venting the CVT properly to increase cvt life for years. I have some cut the covers and add 2 fans to shed heat.

Do you think ambient room temp air vs 200*+ motor heated air temps will cool any incoming air to the CVT sooner or better??

this requires NO common sense at all to figure out.

If you want the best. Add a blower fan like the 17.00 Turbo 3 inch attwood fans. this will drop clutch temps to under 175* easily

Pay attention:

Stock clutch temps run 200-245*,
275* is when the belt blows from heat,
properly vented clutch runs 160-200*
blower fan 150-180*

How much more testing would you require? it's already been done.
 

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Also, another huge issue is STEAM. Steam gets into the CVT housing from being splashed on to the headers in that area. it has no where to go but up and get vacuumed out and wets the clutch, causing slippage and blows the belt. I've seen this happen on 2 teryx 800's already bone stock after blasting puddles on windmill roads. the CVT was wet with steam water that condensed.


The real reason Kawy changed the CVT housing was to try to "VACUUM OUT" the heat from the hottest part of the motor. This Eliminates the blower fan on the 12-13 models that went bad. that blower fan was the old teryx 4's heat vacuum.

good idea, the 14's plastic CVT 5.00 intake, replaced a 200.00 electric blower fan that went bad from mud ingestion, the wiring, light on the dash, and the sensors that ran it. However this was bad for the clutch.
 

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You're a knowledgeable and capable fellow John, and I have a lot of respect for what you've done with clutches. I'd be confident to buy from you.

But your view on the CVT intake is inferred. We simply don't have belt failures to compare, because they are not happening since the fix.

If the philosophy is simply that cooler is better, you can make a good argument. Still I have a hard time believing that CVT intake air is 235 in a moving vehicle. That sounds like an outside cylinder case print. And air wouldn't be in the new short pipe long enough to soak.

If the new intake system is good enough, then my point is also valid.
 

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I have over 400 miles on my 14 T2 with the FDM update and stock CVT intake and no issues so far. 300 miles before FDM update and no belt issues. I ride mostly in low under 20, but at HMT I was mostly in high.

My cousin has a 14 T2 with stock CVT intake and no issues. His was a later build date and did not require the FDM. Over 700 miles on his.

Now I'm curious about John's steam theory. I don't do a lot of water so I can't compare. At the same time, if that's true, I could still see steam coming up to the higher intake as well since that's truly the highest spot and if you are slow moving, then there is also the sucking air in of the intake still pulling in condensation. Not disagreeing and it's just a thought, but the steam would greatly be reduced with the higher intake.

I thought in another thread people noticed that when they relocated their intake under the dash that their console was then extremely hot. With my stock CVT intake I haven't noticed my console hot by any means. It is warm, but thought people saying that was interesting cause if that's the case then the engine compartment is warmer. While not directly flowing into the CVT intake, I'm sure there is still a small side affect.

My plan is to keep riding and see what happens. I plan to replace the belt before my next big trip anyways...cheap insurance IMO. When I look at other's CVT PVC intake, I get a little weary cause the PVC route looks like the front driveshaft is very close. AFter removing my console, i still feel it could be close if a rock or branch popup up in there. While the odds of that happening are low, i think buying the 12-13 OEM parts would be a better choice IMO.

It seems there were more T4s that had the issue than 14 T2s, according to what I've seen on this forum. On the T2, the storage comparments are gapped between the skids and frame looking like a good way to extract heat at higher speeds. Is the T4 gapped like that or do the rear floorboards and plastics under the front seat to floorboard restrict the flow more?
 

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John is right. If you got that many miles with the intake under the hump you are lucky and not riding in really dusty conditions where the under the hump intake also pulls in the dust that makes your engine dusty. ESPECIALLY with the factory skid plates.

I ride hard, I had to fix it myself. So far so good. John is correct on this though. When you have a dyno and an IR temp gun, it is easy to determine the difference. Big Kev did my stuff because he is less than half way to Johns but the conclusions from testing are the same with John and Kev. It is an issue. Even after the update to the primary, temps and steam are what they are. It is fact.
 

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But not a "fact" that has led to any pattern of belt failures. A lot of guessing went on while this problem existed. All of it was reasonable, but only some of it turned out to be right.

If the CVT intake was a problem, we'd know by now. Unmodified T4's would still be having problems. AFAIK they are not.
 

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fact they do, I have had 2 belt problem on stock 2014 t4/t2 with recalls. we added older 12 air intake with no problems to date will keep everyone posted.
 

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fact they do, I have had 2 belt problem on stock 2014 t4/t2 with recalls. we added older 12 air intake with no problems to date will keep everyone posted.
Curious...with the 12-13 intake change, did you notice your console warmer? I have read a few posts claiming that it is with the swap, but of course people can speculate.
 

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Mine is not any warmer than it was running the stock 2014 intake, although if you took a tea bag with you and kept a bottle of water in the cup holder you could stop for afternoon tea.:razz:
 
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But not a "fact" that has led to any pattern of belt failures. A lot of guessing went on while this problem existed. All of it was reasonable, but only some of it turned out to be right.

If the CVT intake was a problem, we'd know by now. Unmodified T4's would still be having problems. AFAIK they are not.
I own a 2013 T4, a 2014 T4 and a 2014 T2. What are you riding? All I am speaking of is not what I read but actual experience I have had with my machines. It all depends on the riding conditions people ride them in. Come ride with us and you may understand better. Oh yea and I am also running the 1/2" FUTV UHMW skid plates on all mine and maybe it could exaggerate the problem due to not having all the holes on the factory skids, but where we ride, the factory skid plates would be shredded after a few rides. I also have Muzzy's on both 2014 machines. Thank you and please realize that there are still PLENTY of people still having the same issues I am. If you actually have a T4 or any 2014 Teryx machine, do yourself a favor and get the JBS floor guards or like both my T4's you will have sticks through your floorboards. That is also fact. I don't really care if you believe me or not, photos don't lie. Glad so far we have not been hurt by this critical defect.
 

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Mine is not any warmer than it was running the stock 2014 intake, although if you took a tea bag with you and kept a bottle of water in the cup holder you could stop for afternoon tea.:razz:
Put i the boat vent I posted about it definitely helps but it also heats up the rear seat occupants but not on the 2014 T2. ;) Definitely helps if you carry any speed the vent is great. I can't take credit for it I saw it on this site and ordered them for all my machines. Definitely helps especially when you are moving more than about 5 MPH. Going faster than say 20, it is like a hair dryer. Riding in dust, it is like a dust vent and hair dryer combined. Do I want my CVT sucking that in, that would be negative.
 

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Curious...with the 12-13 intake change, did you notice your console warmer? I have read a few posts claiming that it is with the swap, but of course people can speculate.
My 2014 Teryx4 800 console was much hotter after the 2012-2013 CVT intake swap. I noticed a significant increase in heat radiating from the parking brake handle and from the shifter openings. My average speed is about 5mph, so there is a lot of slow speed driving.
 

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My 2014 Teryx4 800 console was much hotter after the 2012-2013 CVT intake swap. I noticed a significant increase in heat radiating from the parking brake handle and from the shifter openings. My average speed is about 5mph, so there is a lot of slow speed driving.
Put in the boat vent like I did. It gets it back down a good bit cooler. No more boiling beers in the cup holders. ;)
 

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My 2014 Teryx4 800 console was much hotter after the 2012-2013 CVT intake swap. I noticed a significant increase in heat radiating from the parking brake handle and from the shifter openings. My average speed is about 5mph, so there is a lot of slow speed driving.
Thanks for replying on that. Anyone else notice that at lower speeds?

I'm not trying to debate here, just stating some observations so don't take it personally.

I don't joy ride on dynos, so I can't compare...JK. :) I have tuned bikes on Dyno Jet dyno with Tuning Link for about 6 years though when I was a powersports mechanic. Hard to compare your engine compartment temps when under load @ MPH tuning while sitting still. Even if you have a fan on the machine, I would rather see some real world numbers like HondaBob put up awhile ago in another thread. You could debate about the machine being stuck and running RPMs under load, but then again if you are not moving so no air flow, heat is going to move to the highest spot, which is ultimately under your dash. I also have seen condensation in my air intake in heavy rain at HMT (straight down pour for 2 hours and splashing through huge water holes and runoff), which most likely came from steam from under the console, which the intake pulls air from under dash so I don't see that being eliminated 100%. To help prove this, I took my air intake off completely and cleaned it throughly. I haven't ran in water over my floorboard or in crazy mountain rain since then, but my intake doesn't have condensation spots since then.

Magellan/John, just curious if you have any pics with a bunch of dust and condensation in your CVT housing with the stock intake? Not just the rear vent you installed expelling dust cause that could be bringing more dust up through force since there is now an openning. That would really help convince me and maybe others.

There have also been posts about the recall being formed and cvt snorkeled and still belt issues have occured. Why is that? Again, not arguing, but I would like to understand things more
 

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What is your opinions on adding a bilge blower under the drivers seat and adding some PVC piping to the engine compartment to pull out the hot air from the engine? Kinda like the older t4's. I was thinking of doing this in a couple of weeks.
 
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