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Hey guys. I discovered this after dealing with two different actuators that failed on two machines. If you don't have an extended warranty and don't have $460.00 to shell out for a new actuator, this may help you also. I have included pictures, but they are not the best. I didn't think to post this until I had mine fixed and reinstalled. Basically if you actuator doesn't work and causes your engine light to come on, I may b able to help you fix it. As long as the electric motor still works, I am sure I can walk you through repairing the problem. The problem is a potentiometer inside the actuator that makes the motor move in order to put the machine in 2wd,4wd or diff lock. Basically the potentiometer wears out prematurely and makes the actuator go haywire. Let me know if you have this issue. I am in the process of trying to find a place to buy the potentiometer, but am able to temporarily fix the old one. Hope this helps some of the guys out there.


Danny
 

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My buddy has problems in his T4 so I'm gonna send him a link to this. Keep us posted on the progress.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

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Ya 99% of the time my t4 will not go into 4wd. It will say its in on the dash but when you give it fuel the front will pull a bit then clunk and pop. I have to back up about 5 or so feet to get it to fully go in.
 

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mine flashes 2wd 4wd i had my friend at the dealer he tried several things and checked the operation of another new unit and there's something wrong with the spring tension in the diff itself.now mine will go into 4wd and back but still flashes but he told it doesnt have front diff lock so i'll wait until spring and do a tear down on the front diff and see whats going on i just wish it was the actuator problem but it might not cost as much as actuator
 

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I have a 2012 T-4. I can switch from 2wheel to 4wheel with out any problems. But when I put it in 4wheel diff-lock it gets stuck there and cannot get it out. I have to take the actuator off and play with the switch and turn key off and on until I get the actuator to stop rotating. Then I can put it back together and use 2 & 4 wheel again making sure I don't use diff-lock. This does not sound like the same problem others are having. or is it? Any idea what could be going on here. Where are you buying this part from. Do you have one you could sell me? :popcorn:
 

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From reading other threads on the diff lock, if it sticks you back up, supposedly that will disengage it every time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Trailmaster, I think your actuator is doing what mine did in the beginning. The easy way to check the actuator is take it off the diff and sit it on the tire. Turn key on and switch from 2wd to 4wd. Switch it back and forth between the two positions, not diff lock. The actuator should move smoothly, without any jerking. It it jerks or moves it tactically, it is the problem I had and can be fixed (temporarily for now). Let me know what you find out.

Danny
 

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It seems to move smoothly. But when I put it in diff-lock it keeps rotating until I turn the key off and switch it back to 2-wheel drive and then I can turn the key on and it will position itself in the 2-wheel or 4-wheel drive position.:popcorn:
 

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These actuators have been giving people issues since 2002 on the atv's. Very similar design, same systematic failures. many have tried to rebuild the atv actuators with little success.

Even my green 800 has 2wd/4wd issues. Last week I found it trying to engage 4wd when I was going about 40 mph. then the lights were flashing, but I was in 2wd.

With the 3 year warranty, Kawy won't fix it until it's broke. so I'm certainly trying!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
trailmaster,

Your potentiometer is bad. I can tell you how to fix it temporary just to prove to you that there is a fix. I order a new potentiometer from china for 31 dollars. You can not buy them here in the states, even though the company has a big location here.

Danny
 

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What would be the item#on ebay
 

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Red383
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2012 T4 CAMO EPS
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I'm now on my 3rd shift actuator ($460) for my 2012 T4..This is a major fail by Kawasaki in what I believe should be a recall issue. The interior parts are cheap junk which should in no way cost this much..I tried to repair the 2nd one with the potentiometer I had ordered from China also..This one will only rotate to 2 postions so now I'm looking at the switch for problems..
If you pull this unit apart and watch the potentiometer while switching it should only move 240 degrees. If it goes completely around then it is defective..
I really wish there was a manual shift fix to this..
 
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I'll be tearing down my front diff this winter after hunting season to see if there is a fail also in it. I have the PDF. manual so it should be a rather easy take apart repair and reinstall..yeah right lol
 
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Man I can't believe your having so much touble. Literally sounds exactly like my 08 rzr 800 front diff. They use the cheapest plastic parts they can. Maybe a call to booger toxic. Maybe they will start making teryx parts.
 

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If you pull it out to test it you may have to rock the machine back and forth. On my brute I had to do this because it needs to sense motion before it would try to engage. I'm pretty sure the new Rex operates the same way. I took my actuater apart cleaned it up and did some filig on the shaft. It has worked ever sense.
 
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