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2012 T4 CAMO EPS
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read somewhere that someone made a manual shift for this problem..that would be great seeing as Kawasaki isn't going to fix this issue as they're still using this setup in the 2015-16s. Dicks
 

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read somewhere that someone made a manual shift for this problem..that would be great seeing as Kawasaki isn't going to fix this issue as they're still using this setup in the 2015-16s. Dicks
Someone is working on it! :)

I was working on getting rid of the speed limiter when in diff lock using my manual system when I came across this thread.

I have the manual actuator complete, just finishing up the electronics and lever now.

You can check out the progress on my website and facebook page. If I am not allowed to post these links please remove them and I will not do it again, LOVE THIS FORUM!!!

www.facebook.com/sgroiinnovations and Sgroi Innovations
 

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Talk to us my man! We're anxiously waiting


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Getting there! Ran the prototype electrical stuff yesterday that allows the removal of the actuator without the check engine light coming on. Went great! Still working on the speed limiter fix but will move forward with out it.

Also have the prototype lever set up, looks the same as the stock switch right now and fits right in its place, no cutting or drilling into the dash


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That's sounding great! I'll definitely be a guinea pig for you if you wanna get some prototypes out on the trails and tested


13' T4 2"HL, 28" HTR's/MSA Loks,
Viper 4K front/rear, 30" torton light
72" Denali plow
 

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Hey guys. I discovered this after dealing with two different actuators that failed on two machines. If you don't have an extended warranty and don't have $460.00 to shell out for a new actuator, this may help you also. I have included pictures, but they are not the best. I didn't think to post this until I had mine fixed and reinstalled. Basically if you actuator doesn't work and causes your engine light to come on, I may b able to help you fix it. As long as the electric motor still works, I am sure I can walk you through repairing the problem. The problem is a potentiometer inside the actuator that makes the motor move in order to put the machine in 2wd,4wd or diff lock. Basically the potentiometer wears out prematurely and makes the actuator go haywire. Let me know if you have this issue. I am in the process of trying to find a place to buy the potentiometer, but am able to temporarily fix the old one. Hope this helps some of the guys out there.


Danny[/QUOTE

Hey Danny I could use your help. My machine doesn't always want to shift into 4wd. Its about a 50/50 chance that it will work. I see this as a potential safety issue but I guess Kawasaki does not. This is why I need your help. You said before the potentiometer needs to be replaced. I need to know where I can get one. I have looked on the site you posted but they no longer sell them. Thanks for your help
 

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TexasTeryx3104
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So is the actuator issue why mine sometimes flashes 2wd....4wd.....2wd.....? It seems that if I shut it off and re-start it locks in wherever the switch is set, but I'm guessing that may not continue to fix the issue.... I thought at first it was something "just getting broke in," but it seems more frequent lately. Are we supposed to be stopped to shift into 4wd?
 

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So is the actuator issue why mine sometimes flashes 2wd....4wd.....2wd.....? It seems that if I shut it off and re-start it locks in wherever the switch is set, but I'm guessing that may not continue to fix the issue.... I thought at first it was something "just getting broke in," but it seems more frequent lately. Are we supposed to be stopped to shift into 4wd?
Does it happen after you have been in diff lock? Or just going from 2wd to 4wd? I've never had an issue going back and forth between 2wd and 4wd but have had the above issue several times after being in diff lock and trying to get back to 2wd.
 

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Does it happen after you have been in diff lock? Or just going from 2wd to 4wd? I've never had an issue going back and forth between 2wd and 4wd but have had the above issue several times after being in diff lock and trying to get back to 2wd.


Same here but I have had it do it to me from 4wd to 2wd too. When using the manual 4wd system, the Sure 4, you can feel the diff sticking and then pop into the desired gear. The diff is what kills the actuators.


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Did you find a replacement to the potentiometeror or a way to repair it? Any help is much appreciated hate to pay 400 for another actuator. Thanks Tim Davis
 

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Did you find a replacement to the potentiometeror or a way to repair it? Any help is much appreciated hate to pay 400 for another actuator. Thanks Tim Davis
I have not and I would not recommend getting another electronic actuator, you will just need another one down the road. Get a manual 4wd kit for almost the same price as the electronic actuator and never worry about it again.
There are different kits to buy here: Sgroi Innovations
Quick video of it https://youtu.be/2bZwV4v73Do
 

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I'm having trouble with mine. Wit actuator removed it will spin about 15 degrees when switching from 2wd to 4wd and no movement when switching to diff lock. Think it's the same thing the pot in the actuator. Were you able to find a direct replacement as I haven't yet
 

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2017 T4 LE
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I have a 4wd issue and am looking for help. My 4wd will not engage and CEL will come on when I try to switch into 4wd. I think from reading here it might be the potentiometer. I can solder. Is there a part number available. i have followed several links but gotten nowhere. Can the three position switch be replaced by two single position switches? If there is another thread dealing with this and I havent found it please send me that way.
 
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