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I think they are used most by folks who do continuous high speed runs down the road, under normal operating conditions I don't think it would be necessary.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think they are used most by folks who do continuous high speed runs down the road, under normal operating conditions I don't think it would be necessary.

Mike
I'd be driving around 12 miles on a road to get to trails? Anybody have one thoughts?
 

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Worth the $50 imho. Not as good as a Razorback unit, but I’m not spending that kind of money on a toy. Did it for my new to me 2009. Helped me figure out my clutch was due for a rebuild. Took it out, saw elevated temps, pulled over to let it cool down, and worked my way back to camp, pulling over to cool down the cvt as needed. Once home, found my clutch sheaves and spider were shot. Rebuilt it and now my temps are down considerably. If I had not had that tool, there is the potential I could have stranded myself and my family; worth it just for that.
Also, the Trail Tech water temp kit they sell is a worthwhile investment as well. Better than relying on the idiot light on the display that comes on when it is too late. Same trip I figured out my clutch was toast, I figured out I needed to get excess heat out of the Teryx. Modded my hood for more ventilation and happy with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep went and ordered it,,Better safe than sorry! How did you mod the hood? I have a 2015 Teryx 4 LE..Thanx
 

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No need to worry with your 2015. I am running a first gen. 2009 unit. They were known for overheating issues when pushed hard or modified for more power. The go-to mods were the 2010 radiator/fan and the DASA impeller; But those are pricey. My buggy is fairly stock, so the big thing is making sure nothing is obstructing the radiator (like a skid plate or winch), and monitoring the temps. I had seen pictures of the 2008-09 units used for special forces and they had placed several holes in the hood in front of the radiator and at the top of the hood behind the radiator. They were trying to maximize airflow into the radiator and leaving an exit for the hot air, rather than it being trapped under the hood. Did my own version of that using some cheap faux hood vents. Seems to help so far. Excuse the dust; haven’t washed since it’s last outing.
64057
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool ..I'll just go with the gauge and see how it goes..Can only drive around town here in AZ all the forest trails are closed because of fire danger till at least end of July
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just found out from manufacture that these have non replaceable batteries!!! If I would have known I would of bought the in dash one which runs on the teryx battery! Here in AZ little batteries like that dont last the year!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just went for a breakfast run in town (very hilly pavement) 3 miles Trail Tech temp was 170 when I got to restaurant(90 air temp)..After breakfast took long way home roughly 5 miles ave 35mph temp was rising all the way home to 200degrees..should I be worried? I want to ride to trails around 12 miles away and dont want to overheat belt..Thanx
 

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(Had tried to post earlier, but needed moderator approval?)

IMO anything over 200* for a sustained amount of time is bad news. I know that riding these SXS at WOT for lengths of time causes heat to build up in the CVT/belt system causing failure if done so for prolonged periods of time. Varying speeds allowing for the belt to move on the sheave and helps reduce heat buildup. Obviously keeping the Teryx moving allows for airflow that is needed to cool the CVT, or at least keeping the rpms up (3k+ I think?) to pull air in, if you pull to the side to cool down.

How many miles do you have on your Teryx? Oversized tires? Riding in HI or LOW for your terrain/speed? When did you last check your belt thickness or deflection? Blown the CVT system out to clear the belt dust or sheave faces? You may be due for a rebuild/service. That was what I found in a similar situation, with mine after installing my CVT temp gauge. 70* ambient and was seeing 185*. 100* ambient, riding in 2wd low; My CVT temp was pushing 196-205*. Pulled over several times to cool it down. Figured there was an issue and tore into it when I got home. Found I had worn sheaves, spider was rattling, guide buttons were way out of spec, and found a pushed out bushing in my OD plate that was not allowing the CVT to fully close. My belt deflection was within spec, but it is recommended to set your deflection at the tightest spec setting. Ended up rebuilding my clutch myself (vForce John was backed up with work and I couldn’t wait 6 months), and installed a Dalton clutch kit to account for my oversized tires (something the previous owners had not done), fixed my OD plate, and reset my belt deflection. Doing the rebuild dropped my temps by 30* when I took it out next (Ambient 87*/CVT 154*) driving in 4-Lo.
 

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Good info and read specific towards your year car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
28 /9.5/14 Dot tires 2600 miles was well taken care of when I bought it, just replaced belt and housing all cleaned out...after that rebuild is beyond my ability....
 

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VForce John (when I had talked to him two years ago) had told me that these clutches are a wear item and usually last around 3k miles before they need replacement or overhaul. When I did mine, I had about 3300 miles, and it needed it. Sounds like you are running oversized tires; stock was 26” for 2015 (at least that is what Google says). That could cause more belt slippage, and therefore more heat build up.

When you cleaned your sheaves did you use rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner? Was told by VForce John not to use brake cleaner, because it absorbs into the clutch sheaves (cast aluminum and therefore porous). As the CVT heats up, it releases the cleaner, which absorbs into the belt causing the glue to break down/increase likelihood of failure. Did you reset/check your belt deflection when you installed your new belt? Sheave faces flat or were there grooves present? You can check by laying a flat edge on it and seeing if there are dips/light coming underneath it.

As far as driving in high or low, that is open to debate. I was told that 20 and under should be in low, or if carrying a load. Everyone is different and their conditions vary. For me, I run in 4WD/LOW for everything I do; Hilly terrain, river bed, elevation change/high desert. My Teryx is a 2009 750 w/ a four seat conversion (weight increase from cage,seats, and people), LT, and 28” tires (bigger than stock). Has an UMP intake (reliability), DG slip-on (noise maker from previous owner), and the only performance mods are a Dalton OD plate/clutch kit (Lowers rpms and helps with shift points for the oversized tires) and a stock MSD to just get the speed limiter off. Teryx hits 35-38 in low which is all I need; past that it would hit the rev limiter. This is strictly a family cruiser; leave the Can-Am shenanigans to those with deep pockets.
 

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Oh and I drive in high
Wilpir, how is the Trail Tech CVT belt temp gauge working out? Where did you mount the sensor? any photos? I see you added a blower kit to the clutch housing too. How is that working for you?

inspected my belt yesterday, 1210 miles. Still appeared okay. blew out the black belt dust from the clutch sheaves, and put it back together. Located in AZ also, Phoenix. Oh, the original owner had taken it in for a warranty clutch and belt recall when it was about 10 months old (it's a 2014).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Belt gauge works great..mounted sensor exhaust side of belt housing..blower actually lowered temps 20 degrees or more..Went for same ride that I did without blower and temps stayed at 165 instead of 200 sorry no pics took my time installing but easy..
 
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