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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After much debate and talking with Bandit and 814/Viking I decided to pull the trigger on the Bandit Performance 2.0 shocks. I'm pretty frugal with money, especially when it's a hobby, so spending this much had me debating the options quite a bit. After deciding to go with Bandit I debated between the Performance 2.0 and Gen 3 versions.

Both Craig from Viking/814 and Josh from Bandit were very helpful and knowledgable over the phone. To be clear, I'm not saying that Viking/814 is bad by any means and I'm sure they would be great on the machine......just that I decided to go with Bandits.

I ordered the Bandit 2.0's on Friday afternoon and they were on my front porch the following Tuesday, so pretty quick turn-around.


Here are the points I considered.

- Bandit and Viking/814 options have similar prices. The Performance 2.0's are about $150 cheaper than the Gen 3's, and almost identical price to Vikings.
- Really liked the progressive rate front and dual rate rear springs on the Gen 3 or 2.0 Bandits
- Both the Vikings and Bandit Gen 3 and Performance 2.0 are longer shocks (compared to OEM or other Bandits). Bandit advertises 2" increased wheel travel and available added lift compared to OEM, and of course Viking advertises increased wheel travel and lift also.

My current setup is an 2015 Teryx4. It has a Highlifter bracket lift kit with the preload backed off, as I was trying for a softer ride but wanted more ground clearance at the same time. Probably should have taken measurements to see exactly how much lift but didn't do that. Shocks are at full soft on the compression knob and swaybar disconnected. Tires are 28x10 Intimidators. Most of my trailriding is East Coast style of slower speeds and technical/difficult trails. Before deciding on going with new shocks, I also was debating on getting offset high clearance arms and 30" tires for the same price as the shocks. My decision was made after a buddy made the comment "which current part do you hate more"? When I go on a ride I really never think to myself I hate the tires or the a-arms...do sometimes thing that upgrading either would get me over the trail better. On the other hand everytime I go riding I also think about the rough ride. Following the faster machines on the trail I always run out of suspension before speed or power right now.

The plan is to take lots of measurements on my current setup versus the new Bandits. The hope is to remove the Highlifter brackets and keep the same, or a little more, lift. I would love to do some baseline runs to check ride quality in the field behind my house but everything is a swamp right now....don't want to tear up the field and also covering the machine in mud before working on it.
 

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After much debate and talking with Bandit and 814/Viking I decided to pull the trigger on the Bandit Performance 2.0 shocks. I'm pretty frugal with money, especially when it's a hobby, so spending this much had me debating the options quite a bit. After deciding to go with Bandit I debated between the Performance 2.0 and Gen 3 versions.



Both Craig from Viking/814 and Josh from Bandit were very helpful and knowledgable over the phone. To be clear, I'm not saying that Viking/814 is bad by any means and I'm sure they would be great on the machine......just that I decided to go with Bandits.



I ordered the Bandit 2.0's on Friday afternoon and they were on my front porch the following Tuesday, so pretty quick turn-around.





Here are the points I considered.



- Bandit and Viking/814 options have similar prices. The Performance 2.0's are about $150 cheaper than the Gen 3's, and almost identical price to Vikings.

- Really liked the progressive rate front and dual rate rear springs on the Gen 3 or 2.0 Bandits

- Both the Vikings and Bandit Gen 3 and Performance 2.0 are longer shocks (compared to OEM or other Bandits). Bandit advertises 2" increased wheel travel and available added lift compared to OEM, and of course Viking advertises increased wheel travel and lift also.



My current setup is an 2015 Teryx4. It has a Highlifter bracket lift kit with the preload backed off, as I was trying for a softer ride but wanted more ground clearance at the same time. Probably should have taken measurements to see exactly how much lift but didn't do that. Shocks are at full soft on the compression knob and swaybar disconnected. Tires are 28x10 Intimidators. Most of my trailriding is East Coast style of slower speeds and technical/difficult trails. Before deciding on going with new shocks, I also was debating on getting offset high clearance arms and 30" tires for the same price as the shocks. My decision was made after a buddy made the comment "which current part do you hate more"? When I go on a ride I really never think to myself I hate the tires or the a-arms...do sometimes thing that upgrading either would get me over the trail better. On the other hand everytime I go riding I also think about the rough ride. Following the faster machines on the trail I always run out of suspension before speed or power right now.



The plan is to take lots of measurements on my current setup versus the new Bandits. The hope is to remove the Highlifter brackets and keep the same, or a little more, lift. I would love to do some baseline runs to check ride quality in the field behind my house but everything is a swamp right now....don't want to tear up the field and also covering the machine in mud before working on it.


This is good. I know you will give some great honest feed back on how the shocks really are. Hope they are as good as everyone says they are.


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Discussion Starter #3
This is good. I know you will give some great honest feed back on how the shocks really are. Hope they are as good as everyone says they are.


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I really hope they are as good as everyone says also! Besides for just the ride quality running down trails I'm hoping they increase the capability on obstacles also. Thoughts are they will increase articulation and simply keep the tires planted on the ground better. Hit a steep hill with rocks and roots with some throttle and you are bouncing all over the place now.
 

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After much debate and talking with Bandit and 814/Viking I decided to pull the trigger on the Bandit Performance 2.0 shocks. I'm pretty frugal with money, especially when it's a hobby, so spending this much had me debating the options quite a bit. After deciding to go with Bandit I debated between the Performance 2.0 and Gen 3 versions.



Both Craig from Viking/814 and Josh from Bandit were very helpful and knowledgable over the phone. To be clear, I'm not saying that Viking/814 is bad by any means and I'm sure they would be great on the machine......just that I decided to go with Bandits.



I ordered the Bandit 2.0's on Friday afternoon and they were on my front porch the following Tuesday, so pretty quick turn-around.





Here are the points I considered.



- Bandit and Viking/814 options have similar prices. The Performance 2.0's are about $150 cheaper than the Gen 3's, and almost identical price to Vikings.

- Really liked the progressive rate front and dual rate rear springs on the Gen 3 or 2.0 Bandits

- Both the Vikings and Bandit Gen 3 and Performance 2.0 are longer shocks (compared to OEM or other Bandits). Bandit advertises 2" increased wheel travel and available added lift compared to OEM, and of course Viking advertises increased wheel travel and lift also.



My current setup is an 2015 Teryx4. It has a Highlifter bracket lift kit with the preload backed off, as I was trying for a softer ride but wanted more ground clearance at the same time. Probably should have taken measurements to see exactly how much lift but didn't do that. Shocks are at full soft on the compression knob and swaybar disconnected. Tires are 28x10 Intimidators. Most of my trailriding is East Coast style of slower speeds and technical/difficult trails. Before deciding on going with new shocks, I also was debating on getting offset high clearance arms and 30" tires for the same price as the shocks. My decision was made after a buddy made the comment "which current part do you hate more"? When I go on a ride I really never think to myself I hate the tires or the a-arms...do sometimes thing that upgrading either would get me over the trail better. On the other hand everytime I go riding I also think about the rough ride. Following the faster machines on the trail I always run out of suspension before speed or power right now.



The plan is to take lots of measurements on my current setup versus the new Bandits. The hope is to remove the Highlifter brackets and keep the same, or a little more, lift. I would love to do some baseline runs to check ride quality in the field behind my house but everything is a swamp right now....don't want to tear up the field and also covering the machine in mud before working on it.


I just did the same thing this week for my 2015 t4 with 28” tires, except I chose the 814/Viking shocks. Will be interesting to hear how your bandits do. I’m convinced all the shocks are a huge improvement.


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I have 814's but I think anything will be an improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea, it would be awesome to do a back-to-back comparison between all of the shocks but until somebody sends me all of them for free it won't be coming from me. Maybe during one of the big Teryx events there would be people there with all the different options and could swap them out and do a comparison. The downside are the different preload and compression settings.

Hoping to start working on this tonight. Been busy the last two evenings.
 

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I just installed my bandits. Still need to adjust em. Took a spin down gravel road. Super soft and rolly polly… All I can say as of now is what potholes?? Gonna love em. Ever ride in a 1970 Ford 250? Well compare that to a Cadillac. Inch of height gained with preload set very low.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Only had about an hour last night to work on this. Probably half the time was spent getting a bunch of baseline measurements....left/right and front/rear ground clearance, how much droop the stock shocks had, etc... A large part of the time was just removing the Highlifter brackets as you have to cycle the suspension in different positions so the bolts clear parts of the arms to remove them.

Front shocks installed but not adjusted with almost no preload on them. Sits about 2" lower than stock shocks and Highlifter brackets so shouldn't take a lot of preload to raise it back to the same level. For reference, the Highlifter kit is advertised as a 2.5" lift. If you measure the brackets they raise the shock mounting location right at 1.5" up. This is because of the geometry of the suspension and in order to get 2.5" lift at the wheel you don't have to raise the shock mounting location as much. I did attempt to mock up the Bandits with the brackets still installed but you would have to compress the shocks at least 1/2" to get them to fit in even with the front tires hanging off the ground (didn't check for sure, but either the tierods or CV joints were at the max angle and keeping the suspension from dropping anymore). Theoretically you could do it but limit straps would be absolutely required, but you would be loosing 1/2"+ of the shock travel. The scientific test of pushing down on the front bumper shows me that the front suspension actually moves now! With the stock shocks the front barely moved at all even with my 220 lbs. hanging on the bumper.

Stock rear shocks and brackets all removed. Just need to clearance the top mounts some, bolt it together, and adjust preload.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got the rear shocks installed after spending a few minutes with a grinder on the upper shock mounts. After that it was setting the preload. The one thing I quickly realized is that I didn't take my baseline measurements at the ideal location on the frame. On the front I had measured at the front lower a-arm bracket and the rear at the end of the frame on each side, where I should have measured on the frame at the center line of the tires. Taking the measurements outside of the tire centerline means that changing the preload on the rear will change the front measurement, and vice versa. I set the front measurement the same as it was with the stock shocks and lift, then when I raised the rear up it lowers the front measurement because it tilts the frame forward. In any case, I believe the front is close to the same ride height as before and the rear is a little higher....which is good as I wanted more clearance. I had most of the preload backed off on the stock rear shocks trying to get it to ride better. When dropping the tires back on the ground I did bounce on the front and rear bumpers and rolled it back and forth a few feet to try to settle the suspension. After a brief test ride I came back and it settled about 1/2". If it ever dries up any I will run a few more miles and check the preload again.

Initial test drive was pretty short. Everything is still super swampy but initial indications are a dramatic improvement in small bumps....as in I didn't feel them at all. I also have the tires pumped up much higher than normal which would tend to make it more bouncy. There no obvious increase in sway or looseness on the pavement or turning, but again a very short test drive.
 

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I am playing with preload too. Right now I am 13.5" rear and 13" front clearance. 26" tires no lift. I put a lot preload on now and it stiffens up, pitches rear end well in grass and no excessive body roll. No sway bar. Articulation is about 1" shock shaft exposed when on a rock 2 wheels in air 2 persons weight. I curious what are your measuerments of spring length when settled fron n rear. Mine are 8.75" front and 11" rear. Spring only.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am playing with preload too. Right now I am 13.5" rear and 13" front clearance. 26" tires no lift. I put a lot preload on now and it stiffens up, pitches rear end well in grass and no excessive body roll. No sway bar. Articulation is about 1" shock shaft exposed when on a rock 2 wheels in air 2 persons weight. I curious what are your measuerments of spring length when settled fron n rear. Mine are 8.75" front and 11" rear. Spring only.
I'm measuring 14" rear and 13.5" front with 28" tires (that are a solid 2" taller than the stock 26" BH's) and no lift brackets, so sounds like I have a little less preload right now......but also keep in mind we may be measuring slightly different areas. I'll try to measure the spring lengths and see how they compare.
 

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Agreed. Its tough to settle on suspension settings. Takes time. I feel I have a little too much now but need more test before adjusting. I read front should sit higher but it seems opposite on Trex's?? Hmm. 14" is my goal. Old trex was around that with Hilift and stock shocks and it seemed just right. I will upgrade to 28" next year so 13" now is good. I measure hitch and a arm mount bracket for height, not front bumper area.
 

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6.2 where’s that review at? Think I’m bout to pull the trigger on these exact shocks this morning.


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Discussion Starter #14
I did some more tweaks to the preload this weekend, along with installing some new-to-me 30x10-14 Crawler XG's. Unfortunately still very limited seat time because of the weather. All of my local test areas are farm fields that I don't want to tear up, or coat the machine in mud while still working on it.

As a quick recap, the previous setup was the stock Fox shocks with the preload decreased (ride height lowered) slightly on the front and almost all the way in the rear along with 2.5" lift Highlifter brackets. This was done in an attempt to soften the ride without losing too much ground clearance. Swaybar disconnected and the compression adjustment all the way soft. Honestly, I did not think decreasing the preload on the stock shocks really helped with the ride quality much but I did notice the lack of ground clearance as compared to other Teryx's with a full 2" lift and same size tires.

When installing the Bandit 2.0's I also removed the Highlifter brackets. With the preload adjustments this weekend I am really happy with how it sits. As compared to my previous setup stated above the front sits about 1/2" taller. I did not take measurements previously between completely stock, the Highlifter brackets, and decreased preload but would estimate the front now sits at the height you would expect with the lift and factory preload setting. The rear sits 1 1/2" taller then before, and is now pretty even with the front. Just like the front, I would estimate this is about the height you would expect with stock shock preload and the lift brackets. Again, this lift is all from the longer Bandit shocks as the lift brackets have been removed. Step 1 of getting some lift out of just shocks seems to be achieved.

Now the real advantages based on the measurements I'm getting in the garage. Previous setup of stock shocks only had about 1 3/4" of shock shaft exposed when sitting on the wheels where as the Bandits have 3 1/2" of shaft exposed, meaning there is twice as much up travel available. The machine also has slightly more droop/sag in the suspension (how far you raise the frame off the ground before it lifts the tires) then before. This all translates into a lot more available wheel travel.

One thing that I noticed during a short test drive over some rough terrain is that you can actually see the driver's front tire moving up and down as the suspension cycles. Never remember being actually noticing it move before. Also just pushing down on the front and rear bumpers in the garage make it obvious the suspension is soft, or actually moves.

Can't wait to get out and put some miles on it now.

 

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Yeah! REVIEW? I can add a little with my new 3.0's. I removed sway bar so roll was an issue in the beginning. After 1/2" preload it still was too much. Compression was then dialed to 7-9 clicks and big improvement. Still a little roll but not excessive. On whoops chunk of road it was to soft at first with little preload and compression on 2-3 soft setting. Like a water bed. Now it much better but still soft. Rebound was nice to play with. I adjusted it by running over small 3" logs in field. Dialed it in a click or two past any bucking/chatter until it was equal with front. Now I barely notice the bump front or rear. No bucking on whoops either. I might be a little soft on settings overall but time will tell. Also weight of 1 or 4 people does change things as well as speed. I am wanting slower smooth soft settings but then good handling at fast speeds. Cannot get em both so I have to find middle ground. I will say if ya want another 1" clearance and buttery smooth suspension for trail/crawling slow speeds these are really good at it. And if ya dial em up for high speed they seem at least as good as stockers but I not tested much at fast speeds yet. Having rebound adj. seems to be important at speeds over 25mph to me... There is a section of road that has a water drain diagonal ditch about 12" deep cut through. I usually hit it around 20mph and rear always bucked some. Not anymore, much more smooth and controlled. Probably could do it much faster now. Also the extra travel is noticed on tech stuff like roots trees and rocks and hills. Its not so much the extra length as it is the shock using more of its useable travel to do its work better.
 

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Awesome. Thanks for the review. Do you think with the more travel this shock has will cause the tires to rub anywhere? I wondering if it will on mine with the 14x8 wheels and 1.5 inch wheel spacers. Scared the tire will rub on the rear pillar/frame since I’m running stock arms. I’m clearing it now with about an inch to spare with the brute lift.


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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I haven't been able to post much on this site because of the database errors I kept getting, but seems okay today.

The suspension actually flexes now! In the below pic the driver's side front tire is off the ground. The passenger side shock is not completely compressed either.



While none of the tires are rubbing in the picture you can barely turn to right (to the passenger side) before the passenger side tire starts rubbing hard. I would not feel comfortable riding hard trails as is. I don't mind a little tire rubbing but with the 30" tires and additional flex I think you could get into trouble with a front tire getting completely bound up. I have a set of offset a-arms on order for the front.....these were always on the list of things to get for both tire clearance and ground clearance. I'll buy offset high clearance rear arms as soon as I sell my old tires. Did not get the rear tires to rub the frame but also never got the rear shocks fully compressed either.

Only been able to drive a total of a mile or two and each time the shocks and springs settle a little bit. Fully expect them to settle more after getting some miles on them.
 

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Sweet pic. A lot like how I been experimenting to set my preload. I want 95% compressed shock so I am using all available travel. Not worried about ride height but about full use of suspension. Then I can see where I am at for heights. Progressive front spring plays into this as well as weight in vehicle. I have 0 issue with any tire rubs, stock bighorns. I don't think up travel is much changed from stock Fox shocks but down travel is surely increased. The major change is these shocks actually flex full range and fox were so stiff they didn't get full travel most times.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So a little update. Even after increasing the preload more in the front still couldn't get the 30's to clear at full lock just sitting still, so really didn't want to ride it hard. Went ahead and ordered set of SuperATV offset high clearance arms for the front (after selling my old 28's). Got a little bit of seat time because is actually stopped raining long enough to ride around the fields.....though was planning on going to my dad's on Sunday to ride more but the forecast said rain all day.

A couple pointers on the SuperATV front arms in my application. You have to clearance the lower shocks mounts a little to clear the shocks. This is the back "box section" of the shock mounts. I installed the passenger side and got the bolt in and didn't notice anything. When installing the driver's side I couldn't get the shock eye to completely line up with the bolt hole in the arm and found out it was because the shock was hitting the mount. Went back over to the passenger side and saw with the tires at full droop the shock was touching. Took about 2 minutes on each side with the grinder to open it up.

So far the ride is much better than the stock shocks. Just small bumps and ruts that I used to slow down for I'm finding I can hit wide open.
 

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I haven't been able to post much on this site because of the database errors I kept getting, but seems okay today.



The suspension actually flexes now! In the below pic the driver's side front tire is off the ground. The passenger side shock is not completely compressed either.







While none of the tires are rubbing in the picture you can barely turn to right (to the passenger side) before the passenger side tire starts rubbing hard. I would not feel comfortable riding hard trails as is. I don't mind a little tire rubbing but with the 30" tires and additional flex I think you could get into trouble with a front tire getting completely bound up. I have a set of offset a-arms on order for the front.....these were always on the list of things to get for both tire clearance and ground clearance. I'll buy offset high clearance rear arms as soon as I sell my old tires. Did not get the rear tires to rub the frame but also never got the rear shocks fully compressed either.



Only been able to drive a total of a mile or two and each time the shocks and springs settle a little bit. Fully expect them to settle more after getting some miles on them.


You running limit straps? If not, is there any binding at full droop?


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