[JstWantoRide]

It is probably the POT, that is the most common issue. I don't know what the part number is, I have never tried to replace one. If you take it apart there might be some numbers on it and then you can start searching for it.

Of course I think the best solution is to get the manual 4wd kit from Sgroi Innovations, but I'm sure you looked into that already.

 

[GAMBLETERYX1]

Has anyone had issue with the diff lock light stuck on and flashing between 2wd and 4wd? Is there an easy fix for this?

 

[JstWantoRide]

Has anyone had issue with the diff lock light stuck on and flashing between 2wd and 4wd? Is there an easy fix for this?

Unfortunately this is VERY common. Here is a video of a guy showing how to "work" the teryx so that you can get out of Diff lock. In my opinion it is crazy that this is how these work from new. He even mentions the manual kit in his video: https://youtu.be/-1hik6FlQCQ

The manual kit will fix this issue 100% and it looks awesome, check this video out, and you can buy this kit at www.knightatv.com
https://youtu.be/nWyKCI3NXgI

 

[GAMBLETERYX1]

JstWantoRide,

Thanks for the information. I bought the diff lock speed limit bypass from you guys last year. and it worked well until this problem. So it put the original one back on to see if was doing the same thing and it was. I will check out this video for some ideas.

 

[JstWantoRide]

Let me know if you have any questions. Email, call or text. Joe@sgroiinnovations.com 732-822-3287

JstWantoRide,

Thanks for the information. I bought the diff lock speed limit bypass from you guys last year. and it worked well until this problem. So it put the original one back on to see if was doing the same thing and it was. I will check out this video for some ideas.

 

[John the Teryx2 guy]

Hey guys. I discovered this after dealing with two different actuators that failed on two machines. If you don't have an extended warranty and don't have $460.00 to shell out for a new actuator, this may help you also. I have included pictures, but they are not the best. I didn't think to post this until I had mine fixed and reinstalled. Basically if you actuator doesn't work and causes your engine light to come on, I may b able to help you fix it. As long as the electric motor still works, I am sure I can walk you through repairing the problem. The problem is a potentiometer inside the actuator that makes the motor move in order to put the machine in 2wd,4wd or diff lock. Basically the potentiometer wears out prematurely and makes the actuator go haywire. Let me know if you have this issue. I am in the process of trying to find a place to buy the potentiometer, but am able to temporarily fix the old one. Hope this helps some of the guys out there.


Danny

I 'dived into this' tonight!
First, take the unit off of the SxS, it involves 3 - 8mm bolts, they're tight, be careful!
You 'snip' 2 cable ties that bind it onto the frame - then,up near the radiator reservoir there's a connector to unplug,
Take the unit off of the UTV (SxS)! (It should come with an O'ring that seals it into the diff!

(This is the unit WITHOUT the O-ring!)
On the side with the motor, take out the two phillips screws that hold the assembly together!

On the piece with the O'ring and the 'offset pin' -(top piece in this photo!) take that shaft out! - clean the shaft and it's o'ring thoroughly!
I use NAPA MACS #4800 carb cleaner - available anywhere!
Clean the 'other side out thoroughly' (all that gunky grease! - clean it out good!
Hold your hand over these gears! - do not let them drop off!
See that blue potentiometer down there? (just below the blue/orange/yellow wires in the above photo)
- it's a continuously rotatable pot, clean it out with #4800 carb cleaner also!
Get some good silicone grease
Lube that actuator shaft up lightly (then insert it aligned as taken out above)
Put a couple of drops of silicone grease (NAPA DIELECTRIC GREASE - Part No. BK 7651190)
on each gear - (BEWARE! - DO NOT loose these gears! or they're kinda tough to figure out how they go back in!)
Put halves back together! - carefully! - make sure the case seal is in place (like a big oddly shaped o-ring!)
Insert those phillips screws....you may need to 'twist' this shaft with the offset pin a bit to get it together correctly.
Install the unit back onto the SxS (UTV)....torque down those 3 bolts - I'll need to look up the torque specs!
Re-connect the connector! - install 2 zip ties to hold the wire to the frame!

I found, that the old grease was messing with the potentiometer! - and the offset pin shaft - was slightly bound...the factory grease and water didn't mix well and it was tough to move, after the silicone grease - it turned in it's housing much more freely, the brake cleaner cleaned the 'junk' off of the potentiometer,
This looks like a plastic pot - much like the Penny and Giles faders of the 70's/80's - nearly bullet-proof, but doesn't like most greases!

No parts - about 2 hours (total) of time, a little silicone grease and a half a can of brake cleaner!
Cost - MINIMAL - now, it switches extremely quickly from 2WD to 4WD and back! - it was doing the flashing 'trick' - 2WD/4WD...wouldn't shift,
had to back up, turn key off - now, I just let the tension off the gear train, BAMMO! - shifts...no steering funny, no standing on my head. (ouch!).

Just a short tutorial - I think it'll help a LOT of people with this issue!
John

 

[emiliojr]

So would this actuator be the reason my 2018 teryx4 sometimes when going from 4WD to 2WD the display bounces back and forth from 4wd to 2wd. I sometime try backing up a few feet and stop or try turning the steering wheel side to side while turning the 4x4 switch. If its the actuator wouldn't it be better to just a manual shift kit for it?

 

[Joe Knight ATV Sgroi]

So would this actuator be the reason my 2018 teryx4 sometimes when going from 4WD to 2WD the display bounces back and forth from 4wd to 2wd. I sometime try backing up a few feet and stop or try turning the steering wheel side to side while turning the 4x4 switch. If its the actuator wouldn't it be better to just a manual shift kit for it?

The manual shift kit will definitely fix this 100%. It is just preference if you want to try to get the electronic actuator to work. It may cost more and fail again but some people like the electronic, I get it! If it worked perfect and never failed I would like it too, but the only thing that works perfect and never fails is the Sure 4. Check out some reviews, let me know if you have any questions.

Customer Reviews 😇

155 new items · Album by Salvatore A Sgroi

photos.app.goo.gl

What Kawasaki Brute Force and Teryx Owners Need to Know About Knight Performance Parts and Accessories

Sgroi Innovations, LLC is a family owned and operated business that specializes in manual 4WD and braking actuators for the Kawasaki Brute Force and Teryx models of off-road vehicles, along with other parts and accessories.Built on a solid foundation of knowledge and expertise, Joe Sgroi and his...

www.atv.com

 

[Everett]

Danny are you still available on this subject?
Im a brand new owner of a 14’ that’s got this problem and would greatly appreciate some help!

Hey guys. I discovered this after dealing with two different actuators that failed on two machines. If you don't have an extended warranty and don't have $460.00 to shell out for a new actuator, this may help you also. I have included pictures, but they are not the best. I didn't think to post this until I had mine fixed and reinstalled. Basically if you actuator doesn't work and causes your engine light to come on, I may b able to help you fix it. As long as the electric motor still works, I am sure I can walk you through repairing the problem. The problem is a potentiometer inside the actuator that makes the motor move in order to put the machine in 2wd,4wd or diff lock. Basically the potentiometer wears out prematurely and makes the actuator go haywire. Let me know if you have this issue. I am in the process of trying to find a place to buy the potentiometer, but am able to temporarily fix the old one. Hope this helps some of the guys out there.


Danny

 

[Barry Blair]

Hey guys. I discovered this after dealing with two different actuators that failed on two machines. If you don't have an extended warranty and don't have $460.00 to shell out for a new actuator, this may help you also. I have included pictures, but they are not the best. I didn't think to post this until I had mine fixed and reinstalled. Basically if you actuator doesn't work and causes your engine light to come on, I may b able to help you fix it. As long as the electric motor still works, I am sure I can walk you through repairing the problem. The problem is a potentiometer inside the actuator that makes the motor move in order to put the machine in 2wd,4wd or diff lock. Basically the potentiometer wears out prematurely and makes the actuator go haywire. Let me know if you have this issue. I am in the process of trying to find a place to buy the potentiometer, but am able to temporarily fix the old one. Hope this helps some of the guys out there.


Danny

Where can I buy that potentiometer at

 

[6.2Blazer]

I missed the post above from several months ago where they cleaned out the actuator. Probably try that out soon. While I would really like the Sgroi manual kit (already have the bypass kit) and would definitely spend the money on it before buying an OEM actuator, I would also mess with the factory stuff for awhile first because I like to figure things out......and I'm cheap.

My machine is a '15 with around 1,600 miles on it and it has spent a lot of time in 4wd and diff lock as I usually run the harder trails in places like Windrock and Brimstone. Most of the time it shifts in and out of diff lock without issues and in a reasonable amount of time (within 20 feet of driving and getting on and off the gas). The biggest problem over the last couple of years is when in 4wd and switching to 2wd on the fly (like when jumping on a short section of pavement between trails) it often won't switch into 2wd and the light will flash and it will clunk like it's partially engaged. I have had it get stuck in diff lock maybe 3 times over the last several years (including this weekend) where the check engine light will come on and it will not switch out of diff lock even after keying on and off, stopping, starting, turning the wheels etc.... Each time the only fix was to unbolt the actuator and then move the dash switch back and forth. Usually takes turning the switch a couple times before the actuator will move, then I will re-install it and it will work great (and faster) for awhile. My guess is the above post with getting gunk in it is the cause. Removing from the diff takes all of the extra load off of it and allows it to "break free" and start working again.

FYI - this weekend when it stuck in diff lock I was really glad to have the speed limit bypass as it let me run back to the garage and not be limited to 14 mph the whole way.

 

[6.2Blazer]

I pulled my actuator off and took it apart last night per the post above. Pretty easy to do and longest part of the job was trying to get the connector apart as the clips didn't want to release and there is a fine line between putting enough force on them and breaking the tabs off. Took a sharpie and marked the position of all of the gears and anything that rotated just do I could put it back the same way, but not sure how critical that was. Did notice the output shaft (offset pin that goes into the diff) was somewhat difficult to turn and seemed to "stick" in some positions. There was not much junk or grease on the gears so a little cleaning and a light layer or new grease.

Slightly tricky to get it all back together just from the alignment perspective of getting the shafts and gears meshed back together. Just took a few minutes of wiggling and slightly rotating the shaft. I was concerned at first because it was in 2wd and when tried shifting into 4wd you could hear the motor spin but the 4wd light did not engage then after a short period it would flash between 2wd and 4wd. After a couple key cycles and turning the switch it seemed to shift between 2wd and 4wd fine and diff lock seemed okay. Think I will pull it apart again as reading the above thinking maybe I got some grease on the potentiometer?

 

[Aaron78]

Hello, did you ever figure out how to fix this problem?? My machine is doing the exact same thing. Had it sold no buyer won't take it until it's fixed

 

[dheiss89]

Another solution to these problematic actuators would be our manual conversion kit. Our Teryx Sure 4 Combo eliminates all electronics within the 4WD system giving you a full-proof 4WD for life! Check out the kit here --> https://sgroiinnovations.com/collections/kawasaki-teryx-products/products/teryx-sure-4-combo @Joe Knight ATV Sgroi

 

[Pepaw Roy]

Hey guys. I discovered this after dealing with two different actuators that failed on two machines. If you don't have an extended warranty and don't have $460.00 to shell out for a new actuator, this may help you also. I have included pictures, but they are not the best. I didn't think to post this until I had mine fixed and reinstalled. Basically if you actuator doesn't work and causes your engine light to come on, I may b able to help you fix it. As long as the electric motor still works, I am sure I can walk you through repairing the problem. The problem is a potentiometer inside the actuator that makes the motor move in order to put the machine in 2wd,4wd or diff lock. Basically the potentiometer wears out prematurely and makes the actuator go haywire. Let me know if you have this issue. I am in the process of trying to find a place to buy the potentiometer, but am able to temporarily fix the old one. Hope this helps some of the guys out there.


Danny

Mine is struck in 4 wd and will not move from there. Is that thepotetiometer?

 

[Andy>]

Mine is struck in 4 wd and will not move from there. Is that thepotetiometer?

I’ve had mine stick in 4wd a few times after using diff lock. I ended up pulling the motor off the diff and reinstalled it. The actuator was just bound up iirc. Usually happens to me once a year or every 600 miles.

 

[6.2Blazer]

Mine is struck in 4 wd and will not move from there. Is that thepotetiometer?

Do you have the engine warning light on? Is it just stuck in 4wd, or in diff lock?
If the warning light is on the actuator will not do anything. With the key on or engine running, turn the selector back to whatever position it is stuck in. Then cycle the key and the engine light should go off. At that time you can try turning the selector knob one position. You can drive a little and turn the wheels to see if it will shift.
I never recommend turning the 4wd selector knob more than one position at a time. For example, if in diff lock do not turn it straight to 2wd. Go from diff lock to 4wd and wait for it to shift, then go to 2wd. Also, if you move the selector and the modes doesn't immediately change, do not sit there and move the selector back and forth quickly.
The only time mine has been stuck in a mode where the above didn't clear it out, was being stuck in diff lock. There has been at least 3 times over the years it has been stuck in diff lock and the only thing that eventually got it out of diff lock was removing the actuator on the diff. I pulled the actuator out of the diff and keeping it plugged in moved the selector and it eventually shifted.

 

[Sierra Mike]

Hey guys. I discovered this after dealing with two different actuators that failed on two machines. If you don't have an extended warranty and don't have $460.00 to shell out for a new actuator, this may help you also. I have included pictures, but they are not the best. I didn't think to post this until I had mine fixed and reinstalled. Basically if you actuator doesn't work and causes your engine light to come on, I may b able to help you fix it. As long as the electric motor still works, I am sure I can walk you through repairing the problem. The problem is a potentiometer inside the actuator that makes the motor move in order to put the machine in 2wd,4wd or diff lock. Basically the potentiometer wears out prematurely and makes the actuator go haywire. Let me know if you have this issue. I am in the process of trying to find a place to buy the potentiometer, but am able to temporarily fix the old one. Hope this helps some of the guys out there.


Danny

I'm now on my 3rd shift actuator ($460) for my 2012 T4..This is a major fail by Kawasaki in what I believe should be a recall issue. The interior parts are cheap junk which should in no way cost this much..I tried to repair the 2nd one with the potentiometer I had ordered from China also..This one will only rotate to 2 postions so now I'm looking at the switch for problems..
If you pull this unit apart and watch the potentiometer while switching it should only move 240 degrees. If it goes completely around then it is defective..
I really wish there was a manual shift fix to this..

 

[nhamp08]

Does it matter where the actuator pin lines up when putting things back together? I moved the receiver inside the diff manually, and I can’t remember which way the hole was pointed. Thanks in advance!

 

[Andy>]

Does it matter where the actuator pin lines up when putting things back together? I moved the receiver inside the diff manually, and I can’t remember which way the hole was pointed. Thanks in advance!

I might be wrong but from what I remember the end of the acuator/motor had a little dowel protruding poking out. It had to line up with a piece inside the diff then the motor/actuator could be rotated so that the bolt holes line up properly. In otherwords, no you can't just slap it back together.