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It is probably the POT, that is the most common issue. I don't know what the part number is, I have never tried to replace one. If you take it apart there might be some numbers on it and then you can start searching for it.

Of course I think the best solution is to get the manual 4wd kit from Sgroi Innovations, but I'm sure you looked into that already.
 

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Has anyone had issue with the diff lock light stuck on and flashing between 2wd and 4wd? Is there an easy fix for this?
 

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Has anyone had issue with the diff lock light stuck on and flashing between 2wd and 4wd? Is there an easy fix for this?
Unfortunately this is VERY common. Here is a video of a guy showing how to "work" the teryx so that you can get out of Diff lock. In my opinion it is crazy that this is how these work from new. He even mentions the manual kit in his video: https://youtu.be/-1hik6FlQCQ

The manual kit will fix this issue 100% and it looks awesome, check this video out, and you can buy this kit at www.knightatv.com
https://youtu.be/nWyKCI3NXgI
 

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JstWantoRide,

Thanks for the information. I bought the diff lock speed limit bypass from you guys last year. and it worked well until this problem. So it put the original one back on to see if was doing the same thing and it was. I will check out this video for some ideas.
 

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Let me know if you have any questions. Email, call or text. [email protected] 732-822-3287
JstWantoRide,

Thanks for the information. I bought the diff lock speed limit bypass from you guys last year. and it worked well until this problem. So it put the original one back on to see if was doing the same thing and it was. I will check out this video for some ideas.
 

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Hey guys. I discovered this after dealing with two different actuators that failed on two machines. If you don't have an extended warranty and don't have $460.00 to shell out for a new actuator, this may help you also. I have included pictures, but they are not the best. I didn't think to post this until I had mine fixed and reinstalled. Basically if you actuator doesn't work and causes your engine light to come on, I may b able to help you fix it. As long as the electric motor still works, I am sure I can walk you through repairing the problem. The problem is a potentiometer inside the actuator that makes the motor move in order to put the machine in 2wd,4wd or diff lock. Basically the potentiometer wears out prematurely and makes the actuator go haywire. Let me know if you have this issue. I am in the process of trying to find a place to buy the potentiometer, but am able to temporarily fix the old one. Hope this helps some of the guys out there.


Danny
I 'dived into this' tonight!
First, take the unit off of the SxS, it involves 3 - 8mm bolts, they're tight, be careful!
You 'snip' 2 cable ties that bind it onto the frame - then,up near the radiator reservoir there's a connector to unplug,
Take the unit off of the UTV (SxS)! (It should come with an O'ring that seals it into the diff!
62915

(This is the unit WITHOUT the O-ring!)
On the side with the motor, take out the two phillips screws that hold the assembly together!

62916

On the piece with the O'ring and the 'offset pin' -(top piece in this photo!) take that shaft out! - clean the shaft and it's o'ring thoroughly!
I use NAPA MACS #4800 carb cleaner - available anywhere!
Clean the 'other side out thoroughly' (all that gunky grease! - clean it out good!
Hold your hand over these gears! - do not let them drop off!
See that blue potentiometer down there? (just below the blue/orange/yellow wires in the above photo)
- it's a continuously rotatable pot, clean it out with #4800 carb cleaner also!
Get some good silicone grease
Lube that actuator shaft up lightly (then insert it aligned as taken out above)
Put a couple of drops of silicone grease (NAPA DIELECTRIC GREASE - Part No. BK 7651190)
on each gear - (BEWARE! - DO NOT loose these gears! or they're kinda tough to figure out how they go back in!)
Put halves back together! - carefully! - make sure the case seal is in place (like a big oddly shaped o-ring!)
Insert those phillips screws....you may need to 'twist' this shaft with the offset pin a bit to get it together correctly.
Install the unit back onto the SxS (UTV)....torque down those 3 bolts - I'll need to look up the torque specs!
Re-connect the connector! - install 2 zip ties to hold the wire to the frame!

I found, that the old grease was messing with the potentiometer! - and the offset pin shaft - was slightly bound...the factory grease and water didn't mix well and it was tough to move, after the silicone grease - it turned in it's housing much more freely, the brake cleaner cleaned the 'junk' off of the potentiometer,
This looks like a plastic pot - much like the Penny and Giles faders of the 70's/80's - nearly bullet-proof, but doesn't like most greases!

No parts - about 2 hours (total) of time, a little silicone grease and a half a can of brake cleaner!
Cost - MINIMAL - now, it switches extremely quickly from 2WD to 4WD and back! - it was doing the flashing 'trick' - 2WD/4WD...wouldn't shift,
had to back up, turn key off - now, I just let the tension off the gear train, BAMMO! - shifts...no steering funny, no standing on my head. (ouch!).

Just a short tutorial - I think it'll help a LOT of people with this issue!
John
 

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So would this actuator be the reason my 2018 teryx4 sometimes when going from 4WD to 2WD the display bounces back and forth from 4wd to 2wd. I sometime try backing up a few feet and stop or try turning the steering wheel side to side while turning the 4x4 switch. If its the actuator wouldn't it be better to just a manual shift kit for it?
 
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So would this actuator be the reason my 2018 teryx4 sometimes when going from 4WD to 2WD the display bounces back and forth from 4wd to 2wd. I sometime try backing up a few feet and stop or try turning the steering wheel side to side while turning the 4x4 switch. If its the actuator wouldn't it be better to just a manual shift kit for it?
The manual shift kit will definitely fix this 100%. It is just preference if you want to try to get the electronic actuator to work. It may cost more and fail again but some people like the electronic, I get it! If it worked perfect and never failed I would like it too, but the only thing that works perfect and never fails is the Sure 4. Check out some reviews, let me know if you have any questions.

 

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Danny are you still available on this subject?
Im a brand new owner of a 14’ that’s got this problem and would greatly appreciate some help!

Hey guys. I discovered this after dealing with two different actuators that failed on two machines. If you don't have an extended warranty and don't have $460.00 to shell out for a new actuator, this may help you also. I have included pictures, but they are not the best. I didn't think to post this until I had mine fixed and reinstalled. Basically if you actuator doesn't work and causes your engine light to come on, I may b able to help you fix it. As long as the electric motor still works, I am sure I can walk you through repairing the problem. The problem is a potentiometer inside the actuator that makes the motor move in order to put the machine in 2wd,4wd or diff lock. Basically the potentiometer wears out prematurely and makes the actuator go haywire. Let me know if you have this issue. I am in the process of trying to find a place to buy the potentiometer, but am able to temporarily fix the old one. Hope this helps some of the guys out there.


Danny
 
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